Shoulder always too tight. Tips and dirty tricks for avoiding the tailor?

[Brandons]

If I go shopping for second hand or buy off the rack I always have very little room in the shoulders/upper back. Suit jackets and overcoats are the worst, but also dress shirts. I especially notice if I were to try a combo like turtle neck and sports coat. I don't have the funds to get every color and pattern that I want tailored. Does anyone know any tips or tricks that might help me out if I am willing to do terrible things to my suits and coats? For example maybe if I ripped out the shoulder pads or god forbid the lining. The lining appears most of the time to be made of materials that don't stretch at all. The only coat I have that don't restrict my movent is an unlined top coat. This problem is really that extreme for me. Most of the time off the rack I can't even extend one arm out straight and yet I have too much fabric in the lower back an waist at the same time.

 

[JohnMRobie]

You’re most likely buying the wrong size. You should fit your shoulders first, then fit the length of the jacket. These are the two things that can’t be altered easily. You’ll likely have to get the body and sleeves tailored unless you found your clone as a donor.

 

[Brandons]

If I fit my shoulders first everything else about the jacket would be to long/large. Id have to have the sleeves shortened, the jacket shortened, the waist taken in and the chest reduced ect. At that point it gets expensive for myself for a dozen jackets. So I was hopping at least for my lesser worn colors/patterns that something like removing the shoulder pads might give me more range of motion to where I could wear it more comfortably. Of course I didn't want to start ripping apart my jackets on a whim. My shoulder width is 19 3/4 but my chest is only 42 and my waist is 34.

 

[papado]

I don't think there's much you can do to your existing wardrobe which will make your frame fit into garments which don't have enough room for your build.

For buying new items I think your only option is to find 'fuller' fitting models which have room up top which you would then take in the waist. I had a similar issue but in terms of trouser fit (small waist, built up seat and thighs) so I had to opt for fuller cut items and have them tailored down and around (or even go up a size and tailor down). You can't make up for a significant lack of room unfortunately.

 

[notdos]

Try sizing up, but in a short, that’s what I do. I’m fat, so I need a 48 US for shoulders and mid-section, but a short for sleeves and body, even though I’m 6’ tall.

 

[philosophe]

Depending on your budget, MTM of some kind would help. Off the rack, perhaps look for suits with a more athletic cut to accommodate a large drop.