Dress shirt cloth that doesn't crease as soon as I sit in a chair

[Athwart]

I am looking for some advice on dress shirts. My office and those of our customers are business casual, typically separates rather than suits and sport coats only when meeting with clients.

I had some customs shirts made fairly recently. They turned out well, however after sitting in a desk chair for a while they are so creased that I don't feel like I can walk around without hiding them under a coat.

The picture shows what I mean - this is in a Thomas Mason Royal Twill 100/2 (FM 18474.16). It was nicely pressed when I started the day. I was very disappointed after hearing all about how great this cloth is.

Are there options for cloth that would look similar to this twill but not crease as easily? I have seen OTR Eton shirts with a similar look that don't seem to crease badly - am I better off with tailoring these instead of custom?

Thanks!

 

[Athwart]

Thanks, do you know what fabrics they are?

 

[breakaway01]

not sure what to say ... cotton fabrics in weights suitable for dress shirts all wrinkle to varying degrees. Why would one expect a cotton shirt fabric to perform better than a much heavier cotton trouser fabric that also wrinkles after a few hours?

High thread counts and plain weaves generally wrinkle more easily. Try a royal or pinpoint oxford weave, ideally in a heavier fabric; those will wrinkle less but there isn't really a wrinkle-proof cotton dress shirt fabric.

Fit also matters. A shirt that is too tight will wrinkle more quickly than a shirt cut with an appropriate amount of ease so the fabric is under less tension.

 

[breakaway01]

Trust me, I know what I’m saying when I say they are some crazy mad Italian fabrics that don’t crease…you can reach out to [REDACTED]@gmail.com if you are interested

oh yeah that's legit LOL

 

[SartoriaModerna]

I am looking for some advice on dress shirts. My office and those of our customers are business casual, typically separates rather than suits and sport coats only when meeting with clients.

I had some customs shirts made fairly recently. They turned out well, however after sitting in a desk chair for a while they are so creased that I don't feel like I can walk around without hiding them under a coat.

The picture shows what I mean - this is in a Thomas Mason Royal Twill 100/2 (FM 18474.16). It was nicely pressed when I started the day. I was very disappointed after hearing all about how great this cloth is.

Are there options for cloth that would look similar to this twill but not crease as easily? I have seen OTR Eton shirts with a similar look that don't seem to crease badly - am I better off with tailoring these instead of custom?

Thanks!

Usually, shirts marketed/labeled as iron-free are generally crease-free

 

[Athwart]

Looks like the original post was deleted, but I am interested in these Italian fabrics that don't crease. Can you recommend any?
Thanks!

oh yeah that's legit LOL

 

[notdos]

There is no such thing as a fabric that isn’t treated with non-iron chemicals, that doesn’t wrinkle.
Cotton shirt, steam iron and starch, will do all that can be done.

 

[DapperPhilly]

From my experience Eton shirts fight off the creases better than all other brands I've personally worn.
But no cotton shirt will be crease/wrinkle free after a days wear.

 

[Athwart]

Thanks for the insight on Eton. I am not expecting anything magical, I was just disappointed that the T.M. fabric was far worse than any other shirt I have had.

If anyone does have recommendations on particular other fabrics that are comparable to T.M. Royal Twill but better with regards to creasing I would appreciate the advice.

 

[ASNY2VA]

@Athwart
You might try Kamakura shirts here.

I have one of these shirts and while I am not normally a fan of "non-iron" or whatever label companies prefer, this one has a nice balance of little to no wrinkling without feeling completely synthetic or uncomfortable. Just be sure to check their size guide as there are different fits.

Good luck!

 

[aj_style]

Fit also matters. A shirt that is too tight will wrinkle more quickly than a shirt cut with an appropriate amount of ease so the fabric is under less tension.

This is precisely what I think it’s happening, in my case. My trim/slim fit shirts wrinkle or crease much easier than my classic fit shirts, but I still prefer the trim fit look.

My main issue is seat belt creases. Using a toddler seat belt adjustment pad helps reduce them. Other than that the shirt will hold up fairly decently throughout the day. I’m never worried how they look in the back, though.

 

[Chicago48]

I am looking for some advice on dress shirts. My office and those of our customers are business casual, typically separates rather than suits and sport coats only when meeting with clients.

I had some customs shirts made fairly recently. They turned out well, however after sitting in a desk chair for a while they are so creased that I don't feel like I can walk around without hiding them under a coat.

The picture shows what I mean - this is in a Thomas Mason Royal Twill 100/2 (FM 18474.16). It was nicely pressed when I started the day. I was very disappointed after hearing all about how great this cloth is.

Are there options for cloth that would look similar to this twill but not crease as easily? I have seen OTR Eton shirts with a similar look that don't seem to crease badly - am I better off with tailoring these instead of custom?

Thanks!

I sell shirts and it seems that those with a little Polyester or Spandex are crease free. But it has to have a high % Cotton.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Wrinkle free shirts are evil....
There are two types of wrinkle free shirts.
Pre- cured fabric or post production curing.

The first shirts were made using fabric that was finished with Liquid ammonia.
I believe, first developed in Switzerland.
After weaving the fabric was than sent to Austria for finishing because the swiss government would not allow it for health reasons.
Eton was one of the first companies to use this fabric extensively.
I purchased some Swiss wrinkle free fabric some 20 years ago. One was a twill weave.
Customers all said it was their favorite shirt and did not wrinkle.
The other was a broadcloth which I eventually discarded.
It was slick feeling. The seams puckered while sewing. This is referred to as slippage.
The shirts made from this fabric were refunded or just not delivered.

To get around the slippage issue. I believe it was the the TAL group developed the process of using regular shirt fabric. When sewing they inserted a fusing tape in the seams while sewing. Feel the shoulder seam of a non iron shirt. You will notice the seam is thicker then a shirt without this process.
All other parts of the shirt are stitched and glued.
The shirt is then dipped in a nasty chemical bath and baked.
Non-iron shirts have a weird sheen. They don't breath so they will feel warm They also do not last as long as untreated fabrics.
The treatment is rated for 25-30 washes before it loses wrinkle free properties

Mills also finished with formaldehyde and chemical resins to help keep wrinkles to a minimum.

I am not sure what mills are treating fabrics with today.
The mills can't call these fabrics non-iron.
They are usually referred to as travel fabrics.
Compare untreated vs treated fabric in the same construction. The difference in feel is very different.

I prefer wrinkles.....

 

[smittycl]

Wrinkle free shirts are awful. Treated with chemicals that clog up the fabric and make them non-breathable. Just buy 100% cotton untreated (as much as possible) shirts. All shirts will wrinkle throughout the day.

 

[DapperPhilly]

Wrinkle free shirts are evil....
There are two types of wrinkle free shirts.
Pre- cured fabric or post production curing.

The first shirts were made using fabric that was finished with Liquid ammonia.
I believe, first developed in Switzerland.
After weaving the fabric was than sent to Austria for finishing because the swiss government would not allow it for health reasons.
Eton was one of the first companies to use this fabric extensively.
I purchased some Swiss wrinkle free fabric some 20 years ago. One was a twill weave.
Customers all said it was their favorite shirt and did not wrinkle.
The other was a broadcloth which I eventually discarded.
It was slick feeling. The seams puckered while sewing. This is referred to as slippage.
The shirts made from this fabric were refunded or just not delivered.

To get around the slippage issue. I believe it was the the TAL group developed the process of using regular shirt fabric. When sewing they inserted a fusing tape in the seams while sewing. Feel the shoulder seam of a non iron shirt. You will notice the seam is thicker then a shirt without this process.
All other parts of the shirt are stitched and glued.
The shirt is then dipped in a nasty chemical bath and baked.
Non-iron shirts have a weird sheen. They don't breath so they will feel warm They also do not last as long as untreated fabrics.
The treatment is rated for 25-30 washes before it loses wrinkle free properties

Mills also finished with formaldehyde and chemical resins to help keep wrinkles to a minimum.

I am not sure what mills are treating fabrics with today.
The mills can't call these fabrics non-iron.
They are usually referred to as travel fabrics.
Compare untreated vs treated fabric in the same construction. The difference in feel is very different.

I prefer wrinkles.....

Most wrinkle-resistant shirts are sprayed with chemicals, like formaldehyde. Eton goes in and restructures the fibers of their shirts (few chemicals required). This also means the wrinkle-resistance lasts much longer.

3 Reasons You Need to Own Eton Shirts

Caption: Photo from eton.com Eton is one of the best shirt makers in the world. If you’re debating whether to try Eton, we highly recommend it. And here are three reasons you should: Higher quality Most off-the-rack shirts take four days to make. Eton shirts take four weeks. But you’re...

hhclothingco.com

Not here to promote Eton shirts. Just my experience with them.
I tried to find what (few chemicals required) but no info readily available.