Minnis Airborne - Anyone Ever Have Anything Made?

[Despos]

I am thinking thru the no-sleeve lining process. The sleeve hem would have the turn up finished off so no raw edges are exposed and then finished off like a trouser hem. OK, not that big of deal, but at the top you could not use a sleevehead. If you did use a sleevehead, it would just be hanging there, exposed and not protected by the lining. An option is to cover the sleevehead with lining but that would compromise the suppleness of the sleevehead. With no sleevehead the raw edges of the sleeve and jacket armhole would need to be taped and finished off. As Matt said the sleeve will hang in a different way and will have a different look at the sleeve cap. I would think it necessary to do a spalla comica (spelling?) or shirt sleeve for setting the sleeve if you want to keep it unlined. Overall, I would have sleeve lining. Benefits of lining surpass the styling/comfort issues.

 

[Manton]

I have seen a totally no-lining coat made by Nicolosi, and he taped all the seams inside the sleeves, and did the shirt sleeve just like you say.

 

[Despos]

I am doing a few at present with lining at the top of the back and sleeves only. Front facings are wider to cover the canvass. I would only do this with the facing if the cloth is very, very light.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Manton

I have seen a totally no-lining coat made by Nicolosi, and he taped all the seams inside the sleeves, and did the shirt sleeve just like you say.

I did not consider the inside seams of the sleeves. They would have to be serged like a trouser or the edges turned and sewn down or taped. More to it than I originally thought.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Despos

I am doing a few at present with lining at the top of the back and sleeves only. Front facings are wider to cover the canvass. I would only do this with the facing if the cloth is very, very light.

That is the way most of mine are done. Another way is to do the facings the same width and then add a narrow strip of lining, just wide enough to protect the canvas and inner pockets, down the length of the coat. The latter works better for heavier cloth.

Though I have a linen jacket that is not that light (maybe 11 ounces) that has the wider facings, and it wears fine, maybe because it is linen.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Manton

That is the way most of mine are done. Another way is to do the facings the same width and then add a narrow strip of lining, just wide enough to protect the canvas and inner pockets, down the length of the coat. The latter works better for heavier cloth.

Though I have a linen jacket that is not that light (maybe 11 ounces) that has the wider facings, and it wears fine, maybe because it is linen.

Do you know how Solito and Rubinacci do their "unlined" versions?

 

[Manton]

dbl

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by dopey

Do you know how Solito and Rubinacci do their "unlined" versions?

No.

Also, Raphael tapes the seams on unlined coats, whereas the Mystery Anderson & Sheppard Expatriate Bespoke Tailorâ„¢ (MA&SEBTâ„¢) turns them.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by dopey

Do you know how Solito and Rubinacci do their "unlined" versions?
Yes and no. Actually, no and yes.

 

[Manton]

Here is one of mine.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Manton

That is the way most of mine are done. Another way is to do the facings the same width and then add a narrow strip of lining, just wide enough to protect the canvas and inner pockets, down the length of the coat. The latter works better for heavier cloth.

Though I have a linen jacket that is not that light (maybe 11 ounces) that has the wider facings, and it wears fine, maybe because it is linen.

Do this too. Depends on my mood.

I sometimes do a one piece back when there is no back lining. Clean and simple look.

 

[oscarthewild]

Originally Posted by Manton

Here is one of mine.

Thank you

That looks a lot like what my guy did on a jacket. I have heard of even more sparse linings. I think M Alden on LL had pics of a db with very little in the way of linings. Any chance some of yours have even less lining. Have also seen little lining with the "butterfly" in the shoulder area.

In the same theme, what are the opinions about ermazine? Can someone suggest sources in the US and in theUK.

 

[RonnieAloha]

Is the consensus that the Minnis airbourne is not a good investment? Because it will crease and will not last? The discounted price is so attractive, especially without VAT.