Margaret Howell/MHL

[catchh]

MARGARET HOWELL - SS24 Collection Preview | Margaret Howell

View the Spring Summer 2024 collection preview. Photographed by Ola Rindal.

www.margarethowell.co.uk

 

[bleepbloop]

^ i was just in the store, they confirmed they won't have the mens version

That's the one. The person I spoke to said it was unlikely that it would be part of the men's line. Women's might work as an all gender option, but it is tough to say until seeing measurements...

There is a Men's version with a different cut on the JP site:

MILLED CHECK WOOL(神南店・オンラインストア限定) | MARGARET HOWELL | MARGARET HOWELL

FOX BROTHERS社製のヘビーウエイトのミルドウールで、ブラックとオリーブカラーの大柄なグレンチェックパターンが特徴のコート。アーカイヴのシティコートをベースに着丈を長くし、ラグランスリーブにデザインをアップデートすることでモダンな印象に。<br> ※こちらはメンズの商品です。<br> ※こちらは神南店・オンラインストア限定の商品です。

www.margarethowell.jp

 

[sandmountain]

I did visit Wigmore St. last week but didn't look at the Railway Mac, not sure if they had one in and didn't have time to visit MHL. Went to the Sample Sale on Tuesday, now at new smaller venue, menswear was very thin on the ground in terms of quantity and sizes . I managed to pick up a few pieces but it was a struggle finding stuff, not sure if I'd go again (I've been a regular for over 10 years). They didn't have a Sample Sale in the Spring due to lack of past-season stock – a direct result of the opening of Margaret St..

What did you pick up from the sample sale? And thoughts on the new collection (doesn’t seem like you were a fan of the past few)?

 

[sandmountain]

I’ve wanted to buy a cotton sweater lately and ended up buying the MHL Flatlock Guernsey from last season for a good price. I’m usually a size S, but I also got the XS to compare as I was curious to see if it would fit me any better. I know that you’re not really supposed to size down with this brand, but I’ve been a bit annoyed by the sleeve length of some of the latest pieces I’ve bought (too long, is a bit irritating). I’ve got a saddle neck crew from 2015 I still wear, but it is smaller than a second one I got in 2019 and even that seems a bit smaller compared to what is coming out now. The sleeves on these sit just right on me.

Well, the size XS is way better for the sleeve length, but the rest of the sweater is a bit more fitted. The S is more comfortable overall but the sleeves are long, comes down to my knuckles like some of my other MHL pieces (sweatshirts, long-sleeve tops; some of these are even longer). Does anyone have any advice? Embrace the long sleeves or go with the smaller size? Get the sleeves altered? Go with the Japanese cuts that seem to have smaller sleeve length but maintain the roominess in the chest? Thanks to anyone who can chime in 🙂

 

[ike_hiking_boots]

I’ve wanted to buy a cotton sweater lately and ended up buying the MHL Flatlock Guernsey from last season for a good price. I’m usually a size S, but I also got the XS to compare as I was curious to see if it would fit me any better. I know that you’re not really supposed to size down with this brand, but I’ve been a bit annoyed by the sleeve length of some of the latest pieces I’ve bought (too long, is a bit irritating). I’ve got a saddle neck crew from 2015 I still wear, but it is smaller than a second one I got in 2019 and even that seems a bit smaller compared to what is coming out now. The sleeves on these sit just right on me.

Well, the size XS is way better for the sleeve length, but the rest of the sweater is a bit more fitted. The S is more comfortable overall but the sleeves are long, comes down to my knuckles like some of my other MHL pieces (sweatshirts, long-sleeve tops; some of these are even longer). Does anyone have any advice? Embrace the long sleeves or go with the smaller size? Get the sleeves altered? Go with the Japanese cuts that seem to have smaller sleeve length but maintain the roominess in the chest? Thanks to anyone who can chime in 🙂

MHL and Mainline (Saddle Crew) don't fit the same. Long sleeves are often but not always an issue with Mainline jackets. I've not had any issues with knitwear, but I guess it depends on how tall you are. Just bear in mind that knitwear tends to shrink over time even if you hand-wash, so allow for this. Where are Japanese versions of the knitwear manufactured? Are they from the same factories?

 

[ike_hiking_boots]

What did you pick up from the sample sale? And thoughts on the new collection (doesn’t seem like you were a fan of the past few)?

A couple of summer overshirts, a pair of Mainline Ticket Pocket Trousers in the same Brown Heavy 8 Wale Cord my M025 jacket is made in, a Mainline white linen collarless shirt, a couple of scarves.

At Wigmore St. I tried on the Hand Frame Guernsey

HAND FRAME GUERNSEY

HAND FRAME GUERNSEY

www.margarethowell.co.uk

Nothing special, I think you can find better knitwear elsewhere.
And the Offset Placket Coat in the Duffle Coating

OFFSET PLACKET COAT

OFFSET PLACKET COAT

www.margarethowell.co.uk

The sleeves are too long and the fit is way to boxy. There was actually a sample of this garment at the Sample Sale but it must of been a womens size.
Yes, you're correct, this is another collection I won't lose sleep over, don't think there's anything in there I wish to acquire.

 

[sandmountain]

MHL and Mainline (Saddle Crew) don't fit the same. Long sleeves are often but not always an issue with Mainline jackets. I've not had any issues with knitwear, but I guess it depends on how tall you are. Just bear in mind that knitwear tends to shrink over time even if you hand-wash, so allow for this. Where are Japanese versions of the knitwear manufactured? Are they from the same factories?

Ah yes, but even the mainline saddle crews seem to be suffering from the same longer sleeve syndrome lately, especially compared with the sizing from 2015 as I mentioned. For example:

Margaret Howell Saddle Crew Cotton Cashmere Sweater Moss

Green sweater. Made in UK from 70% organic cotton and 30% cashmere. Art. No: MEKN0307S23KJSMOS

tres-bien.com

I understand this to be a more of a trend at present and many people I know seem to find this more comfortable, but I just can’t seem to get used to it.

The Japanese version of the MHL guernsey that I was looking at was made in China or Japan, if I recall correctly. The sizing (large) was very similar (to the UK small) except the sleeves were shorter. Other knitwear on the Japanese site seems to be the same as the UK stuff (made in the EU) just resized for the Japanese market (so still longer sleeves). The sportswear (hoodies, sweatshirts) are also made in China/Japan and have shorter sleeves compared to the UK versions, but they are still oversized/boxy everywhere else (which I actually like).

I think I’m going to have to give some of the Japanese stuff a go at some point and see if I like it any better. There seems to be a good second hand market if I want to take some calculated risks.

It’s good to know that it might shrink, I’ll keep that in mind! You say that you can find better knitwear elsewhere, do you have any suggestions? And what other brands are you leaning towards at the moment (I’m always curious what other brands people who are into Margaret Howell like)?

 

[catchh]

Auralee also does the long sleeves

 

[ike_hiking_boots]

Ah yes, but even the mainline saddle crews seem to be suffering from the same longer sleeve syndrome lately, especially compared with the sizing from 2015 as I mentioned. For example:

I don't have any of the newer Saddle Crews. They've changed the shape of the neck. The merino/cashmere blend seems to shrink more than the cotton/cashmere version. The last Mainline knitwear garment I purchased, the Single Pocket Crew Knit

Margaret Howell Single Pocket Crew Knit Mahogany | END.

Buy Margaret Howell Single Pocket Crew Knit - Mahogany from END. (US) - only £255. Fast shipping on latest Margaret Howell

www.endclothing.com

The sleeves were so long I had to return it. That one was made in Italy but usually their knitwear is made in the UK.
The last knitwear I purchased was made by Sunspel; this:

Men's Luxury British Wool Jumper in Natural Ecru | Sunspel

A truly local luxury British wool jumper, made entirely within 150 miles of our factory in Long Eaton. The wool comes from rare Bluefaced Leicester sheep, which yield the finest fleece of any sheep in England. The jumper has a rib stitch and a soft, close rib neck. In a selection of beautiful...

www.sunspel.com

In the Natural Ecru. £180 in the Mr Porter Sale.
If you like the Saddle Crew style you might want to take a look at Harley of Scotland.

 

[oilbased]

In reply to one of the posts a while back, I kind of agree that there isn’t a great deal I’m excited for in this AW23 collection. Usually I have a long wants list but not so much now. Last winter was good for me and I bought lots but so far have been limited to the Mizuno vest and the new pull-on trainers and a couple of bits from MHL. I’m waiting to try the School Shoes too. I got a few things recently in Japan which are currently not available in UK/RoW. I think the styling is quite dull here but Japan seem to do it to a different level. (I’ve mentioned this before).
The leather pouch which was styled quite a bit in the UK e-commerce looks, I wanted but sadly didn’t make the shop floor.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Where are the school shoes and the shearling vest?

 

[sandmountain]

In reply to one of the posts a while back, I kind of agree that there isn’t a great deal I’m excited for in this AW23 collection. Usually I have a long wants list but not so much now. Last winter was good for me and I bought lots but so far have been limited to the Mizuno vest and the new pull-on trainers and a couple of bits from MHL. I’m waiting to try the School Shoes too. I got a few things recently in Japan which are currently not available in UK/RoW. I think the styling is quite dull here but Japan seem to do it to a different level. (I’ve mentioned this before).
The leather pouch which was styled quite a bit in the UK e-commerce looks, I wanted but sadly didn’t make the shop floor.

How is the Mizuno vest, and what did you get from Japan?

 

[sandmountain]

Where are the school shoes and the shearling vest?

I’m assuming this is the shearling vest:

SHEEPSKIN | MARGARET HOWELL | MARGARET HOWELL

英国製シープスキンを使用したジレ。ヴィンテージのモディファイドジャケットをリファレンスに、フロントジッパー、大きなパッチポケット、サイドDリングアジャスターがキャラクターのアイテム。<br> ※こちらはメンズの商品です。<br> ※こちらの商品は展開店舗が限られております。<br> ＜展開店舗＞<br> 神南、GINZA SIX

www.margarethowell.jp

Made in England, so I’m guessing it should be sold (for a bit less, I’d think) in the UK soon?

The school shoes are in the lookbook, but maybe you’ve seen them there already?

 

[sandmountain]

Auralee also does the long sleeves

Don’t get me wrong, I think it looks cool and I’m probably just an outlier in preferring the sleeve length at or just past the wrist (but then relaxed/boxier elsewhere). Hard to get both of those things come together, but Margaret Howell in Japan seems to be cut a bit more like this.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

I’m assuming this is the shearling vest:

SHEEPSKIN | MARGARET HOWELL | MARGARET HOWELL

英国製シープスキンを使用したジレ。ヴィンテージのモディファイドジャケットをリファレンスに、フロントジッパー、大きなパッチポケット、サイドDリングアジャスターがキャラクターのアイテム。<br> ※こちらはメンズの商品です。<br> ※こちらの商品は展開店舗が限られております。<br> ＜展開店舗＞<br> 神南、GINZA SIX

www.margarethowell.jp

Made in England, so I’m guessing it should be sold (for a bit less, I’d think) in the UK soon?

The school shoes are in the lookbook, but maybe you’ve seen them there already?

Yes I meant where are they as in, why haven’t they been put on the website for sale yet so I can buy them.