Made in Spain Footwear, including TLB Mallorca, Cobbler Union, Yanko, Norman Vilalta, etc

[MacGuffen]

I'm missing a casual longwing derby design from the Artista line. But I suppose that would be against the whole Artista philosophy.

Just think, with double JR soles and Old England leather ? Similar to this without the storm welt.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Suppose, hypothetically, one wants to specify a fairly dressy reverse-stitch split toe -- something in the direction of an EG Dover on the 606 last. What are the best choices for a custom Artista order?

Brown boxcalf vs. dark-brown vegano? (I've never understood the difference.)

Single vs. double leather sole?

Thanks for any advice.

Pretty obvious... The Velazques last was developed since South Korean agent wanted a last similar to 606, and it's what most reverse stitch toes are made on as standard. Box calf is dyed in drums so goes deeper into the leather, Vegano is crust leather which is dyed only on the surface. The former has a more solid colour which will take more time to develop patina, the latter has some more depth from the start and is easier to add character to.

I'm missing a casual longwing derby design from the Artista line. But I suppose that would be against the whole Artista philosophy.

Just think, with double JR soles and Old England leather ? Similar to this without the storm welt.
View attachment 1678400

Yeah, main line has plenty of casual models, it's not really for Artista.

 

[db123456]

Pretty obvious... The Velazques last was developed since South Korean agent wanted a last similar to 606, and it's what most reverse stitch toes are made on as standard. Box calf is dyed in drums so goes deeper into the leather, Vegano is crust leather which is dyed only on the surface. The former has a more solid colour which will take more time to develop patina, the latter has some more depth from the start and is easier to add character to.

Thanks, this is helpful. I appreciate the response.

Any thoughts on single vs. double soles? I'm not sure I've seen an Artista make up with double soles. Would that be anything like a reasonable approximation of EG's HAF soles?

 

[l33tcoder]

TLB fans - Is "F" width in TLB the equivalent of "standard" or "D" width in US sizing? Most of the ready to wear options available are in F width - so I am assuming this is correct.
But I recall English shoemakers calling "E" as the standard width - which is the root of my dilemma.


Thanks!

 

[Adhazem]

TLB fans - Is "F" width in TLB the equivalent of "standard" or "D" width in US sizing? Most of the ready to wear options available are in F width - so I am assuming this is correct.
But I recall English shoemakers calling "E" as the standard width - which is the root of my dilemma.


Thanks!

That’s correct F is D. I’m an E width with Allen Edmonds and the TLB G width fits me like a glove.

 

[Mercurio]

.
But I recall English shoemakers calling "E" as the standard width - which is the root of my dilemma.

TLB Mallorca is a Spanish brand, not English, so they use a different nomenclature.

 

[MacGuffen]

Thanks, this is helpful. I appreciate the response.

Any thoughts on single vs. double soles? I'm not sure I've seen an Artista make up with double soles. Would that be anything like a reasonable approximation of EG's HAF soles?

I'm wondering the same thing. In particular single Inca vs double City... Would there be any practical difference? @j ingevaldsson might know?

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Thanks, this is helpful. I appreciate the response.

Any thoughts on single vs. double soles? I'm not sure I've seen an Artista make up with double soles. Would that be anything like a reasonable approximation of EG's HAF soles?

I'm wondering the same thing. In particular single Inca vs double City... Would there be any practical difference? @j ingevaldsson might know?

Yeah, even if HAF soles are single at the waist and makes it possible for a very sleek waist, TLB makes the waists so narrow on Artista that also for double soles they look rather neat, so pretty comparable to EG HAF.
Inca soles they don't trim the same way but do square, so they will almost look wider despite being slightly thinner.

Here's a good look at a double sole on The Elegant Oxford's Youtube, would look similar with city sole apart from the welt finishing. Below photo of the same shoe:

TLB Mallorca is a Spanish brand, not English, so they use a different nomenclature.

Not really, both follow the European width system, they have different standard widths though which can confuse things. I write more about how shoe sizing works in this article for those interested.

 

[VegasRebel]

TLB fans - Is "F" width in TLB the equivalent of "standard" or "D" width in US sizing? Most of the ready to wear options available are in F width - so I am assuming this is correct.
But I recall English shoemakers calling "E" as the standard width - which is the root of my dilemma.

I recently purchased a pair of Artista wholecuts and Toni had me send in photos and comparisons. I'm a 13D in Allen Edmonds, and he ended up suggesting 12E's for the Artista shoes.

I should get my shoes Monday, so pics incoming and I'll say something about fit then, but either way Toni reached out after my order to give a specific suggestion and I'd defer to Toni on that.

 

[Franco Ocarez]

What are the advantages and disadvantages of double soles versus single soles? I'm about to order my shoes at the new event and I want to be sure.

 

[JohnMRobie]

What are the advantages and disadvantages of double soles versus single soles? I'm about to order my shoes at the new event and I want to be sure.

Double soles will theoretically be longer lasting but will be stiffer and as @j ingevaldsson pointed out its a different look.

In my opinion it comes down to the look you want more than anything. The Artista double soles are relatively sleek for a double sole but it’s a different look. If it were me - If I were ordering boots or a casual derby I’d consider double soles but for an oxford or more sleek derby to be worn with tailoring I’d do the single sole or city sole.

Durability concerns are usually overblown and you’ll probably be able to go years without needing a resole either way if you’ve got a decent rotation.

 

[Adhazem]

Double soles will theoretically be longer lasting but will be stiffer and as @j ingevaldsson pointed out its a different look.

In my opinion it comes down to the look you want more than anything. The Artista double soles are relatively sleek for a double sole but it’s a different look. If it were me - If I were ordering boots or a casual derby I’d consider double soles but for an oxford or more sleek derby to be worn with tailoring I’d do the single sole or city sole.

Durability concerns are usually overblown and you’ll probably be able to go years without needing a resole either way if you’ve got a decent rotation.

That’s what I did. I ordered the 121 in single sole and the mainline boot in double sole. My upcoming Artista is single sole.

 

[JohnMRobie]

That’s what I did. I ordered the 121 in single sole and the mainline boot in double sole. My upcoming Artista is single sole. View attachment 1678803 View attachment 1678807

The double soles work well on that pattern. Nice pair.

 

[JustPullHarder]

Double soles will theoretically be longer lasting but will be stiffer and as @j ingevaldsson pointed out its a different look.

In my opinion it comes down to the look you want more than anything. The Artista double soles are relatively sleek for a double sole but it’s a different look. If it were me - If I were ordering boots or a casual derby I’d consider double soles but for an oxford or more sleek derby to be worn with tailoring I’d do the single sole or city sole.

Durability concerns are usually overblown and you’ll probably be able to go years without needing a resole either way if you’ve got a decent rotation.

I was under the impression that often midsoles aren't soling leather and aren't intended to be worn into. So it's more of a comfort thing and the midsole would get reused in a resole.

 

[VaNeT]

Does Artista Chelsea Boots have double sole or single?