Let's talk about "pull".

[ruben]

-I think it's silly on a number of levels to be too critical of the fit of jackets being modeled on a runway.

-The first few hacket jackets don't look terrible (pull-wise anyways), and the pull might even be due to movement.

-I'd probably take a moderate amount of pull over just about any other flaw in a jacket.


-Is it possible to get a pull-like effect from wide hips?

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by ruben

-Is it possible to get a pull-like effect from wide hips?

If by "pull-like effect" you mean "pulling," then yes.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I am fairly top heavy and broad shouldered for my legs and height so I feel a bit of pull looks good on my jackets. It gives a more slimming effect than drapey. Whenever something drapes too much it makes the top of my body look way too big, which I don't like. If my trousers are made to accomodate the drapey top they will be rather wide legged and it just looks bad. I only wear MTM suits, but I am wondering if full on bespoke can actually look drapey but proportioned as well?

 

[Martin Stall]

Originally Posted by Martin Stall

Pull = spalla camicia.


As pointed out by a tailor friend of mine, one who has a brain even more warped than mine, for which I am of course very jealous, this above post seems to indicate that I don't know what a spalla camicia is.
I must admit that I've never seen one in the wild. I've seen loads of badly set in sleeves and I've even tried my hand at it sometimes.

What I meant with: pull = spalla camicia, is simply that it ain't right and it tugs not only at the button and the sleevehead, it does so also at the very strings that hold the universe together.

There. I'm sure this makes things a lot clearer.

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by Martin Stall

As pointed out by a tailor friend of mine, one who has a brain even more warped than mine, for which I am of course very jealous, this above post seems to indicate that I don't know what a spalla camicia is.
I must admit that I've never seen one in the wild. I've seen loads of badly set in sleeves and I've even tried my hand at it sometimes.

What I meant with: pull = spalla camicia, is simply that it ain't right and it tugs not only at the button and the sleevehead, it does so also at the very strings that hold the universe together.

There. I'm sure this makes things a lot clearer.

not the best pic, but what do you mean?

 

[George]

Originally Posted by Martin Stall

As pointed out by a tailor friend of mine, one who has a brain even more warped than mine, for which I am of course very jealous, this above post seems to indicate that I don't know what a spalla camicia is. I must admit that I've never seen one in the wild. I've seen loads of badly set in sleeves and I've even tried my hand at it sometimes. What I meant with: pull = spalla camicia, is simply that it ain't right and it tugs not only at the button and the sleevehead, it does so also at the very strings that hold the universe together. There. I'm sure this makes things a lot clearer.
My own tailor refuses to acknowledge the Spalla Camcia shirt sleeve thing. As he says he's a tailor not a shirtmaker.

 

[Montauk]

Originally Posted by edmorel

not the best pic, but what do you mean?

Although I imagine it might be a bit lurid in real life, that's a beautiful tweed on the World Wide Web.

Lovely shoulder either way.

 

[Montauk]

double posting

 

[Wes Bourne]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

This is neither stiff nor boxy.

Let me know where this will be donated when you're done wearing it in about 5 years. I'll try to move up to a size 38 by then.

 

[Martin Stall]

I like the direction this threak is taking. Come on guys, let's get rolling

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

Let me know where this will be donated when you're done wearing it in about 5 years. I'll try to move up to a size 38 by then.

You know, I don't think I've ever worn it.....

 

[George]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

You know, I don't think I've ever worn it.....
I thought you were going to attemp another drape experiment incorporating some of the things you learned from tearing down that A&S?

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by George

I thought you were going to attemp another drape experiment incorporating some of the things you learned from tearing down that A&S?

I was. Too bad I didn't think about it- I just made up a nice DB that might have worked well as a draped model. Oh well. I just received some Minnis flannel that I won't need for a while so have time to play around with it; maybe I'll ruin that one with some drape.

 

[Martin Stall]

Don't forget to build in some pull.

 

[Wes Bourne]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

You know, I don't think I've ever worn it.....

Quite a shame. If you alter it to a 36S, I'll figure a way to give you a tax receipt for charitable donation.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

I was. Too bad I didn't think about it- I just made up a nice DB that might have worked well as a draped model. Oh well. I just received some Minnis flannel that I won't need for a while so have time to play around with it; maybe I'll ruin that one with some drape.

I don't think we've seen a DB from you yet. Will you post it on your blog?