Let's talk about "pull".

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bull, Jun 16, 2010.

  1. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    Waiw wait wait...can I retract? Some Googling and Wiki surfing just informed me that Diddy won the award in 2004 for his "Sean John" for men stylings...*kills self.*
     


  2. vincerich

    vincerich Senior member

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    In the Thom Browne thread, I received a verbal thrashing for opining that there isn't anything wrong with a bit of pull on the front of the jacket.

    In typical forvmite, lemming fashion, I was told how this was contrary to every rule of men's dress, how it shortens a man, how it looks feminine, etc etc etc blah blah blah yawwwwwwn.

    Anyway, I was perusing Sartorially Inclined and came across these pics of Hackett's 2010 spring/summer stuff:

    http://sartoriallyinclined.blogspot....t-ss-2010.html

    Note: every last jacket shows a bit of pull (or a lot of pull). Every last one.

    Now then, can we talk about pull? Is pull utterly verboten? Really? Even if it looks kind of sexy and imperfect?

    I think it can work. Yeah, go ahead. Bring on the next shitstorm.




    I agree that there's nothing wrong with a little bit of pull. A forum freak will see it as a no-no, but most people won't notice; some will see it as fashionable. There's nothing wrong with pant legs that are a LITTLE too wide either.


    Edit: The pull in most of those jackets looks pretty bad....
     


  3. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    @ apropos, yeah, you got me - I find the stylings of the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year 2006 somewhat intriguing. So do...you know...all of the fashion designers of America. This is not to say that such designers are not utter fools and shitheads...but cut a brother some slack. Oh, and he's showing far less pull than the guys in the Hackett pics, so your cross-thread-posting in an effort to bust me has gotten you nowhere. Be proud of yourself!
    It appears that the numerous posts here by others have still not made it crystal to you yet the crucial difference between being in movement and standing still.

    You know, the reason why I had 'at rest' tacked on to the end of my post.

    Stick around, you'll learn a lot.
     


  4. HRoi

    HRoi Senior member

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    Exactly. Sometimes, it's preferable to just dispense with the straps altogether to get rid of the pulling that would otherwise exist. [​IMG] - B
    guys, please carry on with your discussion while i sit here and contemplate how the laws of physics were overcome here. i'll be awhile.
     


  5. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Unintentional pulling, the sort that led to the formulation of the "rule," rarely looks good, especially on a younger guy. On older guy who has gained some girth over the years, it can be kinda charming.

    "Older guys" who let themselves get so out of shape their clothes don't fit properly should be kicked in their fat guts and then packed off the gym to get in shape--the obese swine!
     


  6. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    I think some "pull" can be traced back to the fabric composition.

    Thom's clothing above looks styled with an exaggerated nipped waist.

    His look is basically what I wore to HS in the '80s. Vintage '60s suits with skinny ties and black shoes. But I usually paid around $5 for my suits. Often NOS.

    The update is in the bare ankle.
     


  7. GanglandDandy

    GanglandDandy Senior member

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    I like waist suppression..a lot..on men who have an actual drop from their shoulder to waist ratio. Don't fancy it much on obese men though..it would seem as though the button/buttons would pop out at any time.
     


  8. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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  9. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    p.s. For posterity: I'm with HRoi...those breasticles are outstanding...er...up...stand...age(?) Upstanding? Upright? Amazing.
     


  10. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    and frumpy, high-waisted pants with short cuffs on wide-hipped models are about as unflattering as you can get. see pic #3.
    The only high-waisted trousers I see are on the dark grey morning suit. The rest look to be sub-navel. I do like that I'm made out to be a forumite lemming. And I didn't think you guys even liked me...[​IMG]
     


  11. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    @ amplifiedheat, we're all lemmings, my friend. To an extent.
     


  12. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    Guys, I don't understand this thread. We talk about style, quality, fit, what have you. Long discussions about drape, sleeve lengths, waist suppression, rise etc. And there is generally a pretty good understanding of what is and is not "correct", or considered to be so.

    Now, if a button pulls, the coat don't fit.

    So how come it's being called ok here? I'm totally flabbergasted. I phoned my therapist to help me out but he says I really should take responsibility and ask the forum members. Please help. I feel another episode coming on.
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Guys, I don't understand this thread. We talk about style, quality, fit, what have you. Long discussions about drape, sleeve lengths, waist suppression, rise etc. And there is generally a pretty good understanding of what is and is not "correct", or considered to be so. Now, if a button pulls, the coat don't fit. So how come it's being called ok here? I'm totally flabbergasted. I phoned my therapist to help me out but he says I really should take responsibility and ask the forum members. Please help. I feel another episode coming on.
    I think there is confusion between okay pulling and bad pulling. In my opinion, any obvious, well-defined pulling is bad. But you might see some variable tautness that an optimist could attribute to "life" in the cloth or tailoring of a jacket.
     


  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    So how come it's being called ok here?

    Because in some tailoring traditions a small amount is OK, even desirable. I don't like it but I am aware that an alternative view exists.
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Because in some tailoring traditions a small amount is OK, even desirable. I don't like it but I am aware that an alternative view exists.

    I think the hard rule should be whether there is a crease. If there is, it's bad pulling. A mere indentation? No problem--maybe.
     


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