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Let's talk about "pull".

Bull

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In the Thom Browne thread, I received a verbal thrashing for opining that there isn't anything wrong with a bit of pull on the front of the jacket.

In typical forvmite, lemming fashion, I was told how this was contrary to every rule of men's dress, how it shortens a man, how it looks feminine, etc etc etc blah blah blah yawwwwwwn.

Anyway, I was perusing Sartorially Inclined and came across these pics of Hackett's 2010 spring/summer stuff:

http://sartoriallyinclined.blogspot....t-ss-2010.html

Note: every last jacket shows a bit of pull (or a lot of pull). Every last one.

Now then, can we talk about pull? Is pull utterly verboten? Really? Even if it looks kind of sexy and imperfect?

I think it can work. Yeah, go ahead. Bring on the next shitstorm.
 

teddieriley

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So you show us pics of runway models in overly tight jackets to suggest that that amount of pulling is acceptable?
 

hamish5178

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First off, they are all moving, probably in some sort of unnatural way. Second, those jackets all look as if they are too small! Why would you want something to pull? It's uncomfortable.

And what's this about women looking good in things that pull? That rarely happens because so much of women's clothing is stretchy, and when it does, they look fat!
 

edmorel

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I don't think Hackett=TB, Hackett's models are moving, TB was standing still. Anyway, there really shouldn't be any pulling in a classic menswear coat/suit. Notice I said classic, if you care to be more fashion forward, a purposely tighter fit is fine, but it's not proper fit in the scheme of a classic coat. Also, the whole ensemble needs to be on the tight side, in my opinion, for it to work. You can get a very waist supressed look without any pulling.
 

DocHolliday

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Like anything, if it looks deliberate, sometimes it can work. At least if you like the look.

Unintentional pulling, the sort that led to the formulation of the "rule," rarely looks good, especially on a younger guy. On older guy who has gained some girth over the years, it can be kinda charming.

It's all about context. Though I have to say, many of the guys who think they're pulling it off leave me unconvinced. Such is personal taste.
 

z7f9q

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As with so many things, it depends on context. The runway pics are obviously excessive for most situations, so probably not a great example. A little bit of pull isn't necessarily bad though, at least not in my opinion. Others may feel differently I suppose.
 

Harold falcon

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None of those pics look good. They look ridiculous, like they've been given clothing that doesn't fit them.
 

hamish5178

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Originally Posted by z7f9q
As with so many things, it depends on context. The runway pics are obviously excessive for most situations, so probably not a great example. A little bit of pull isn't necessarily bad though, at least not in my opinion. Others may feel differently I suppose.

To me "a little bit of pull is a good thing" is comparable to "a little bit of hem under your shoe is a good thing."
 

z7f9q

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Originally Posted by hamish5178
To me "a little bit of pull is a good thing" is comparable to "a little bit of hem under your shoe is a good thing."

I'm not aware of many people in favour of the latter, but I see your point.
 

Bull

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"On older guy who has gained some girth over the years, it can be kinda charming."

@ Doc, I'm intrigued that you think "pull" on an older gent can look charming - when I look at Lino's DB's on thesartorialist, I see a little pull around the gut and think "Sheesh - lots of cigarettes, good food, and good wine do NOT do a body good." LOL.

I still think the guy is stylish as hell, but I find "pull" to work better on a young, fit guy with a small waist, and not so much on an older guy who's gotten a bit sloppy over the years.

But I think your take is an interesting one.
 

Svenn

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Bull

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*hugs Svenn*

(no ****)
 

OttoSkadelig

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Originally Posted by edmorel
I don't think Hackett=TB, Hackett's models are moving, TB was standing still. Anyway, there really shouldn't be any pulling in a classic menswear coat/suit. Notice I said classic, if you care to be more fashion forward, a purposely tighter fit is fine, but it's not proper fit in the scheme of a classic coat. Also, the whole ensemble needs to be on the tight side, in my opinion, for it to work. You can get a very waist supressed look without any pulling.

exactly.

BTW, the hackett pics are really not attractive. what's up with those mega-flared quarters? especially when combined with excess length, it looks frankly odd. the one in the second picture -- if you made it black -- could almost double as a magician's coat. all that's missing is a tophat and a bunny rabbit.

and frumpy, high-waisted pants with short cuffs on wide-hipped models are about as unflattering as you can get. see pic #3.

one gold star for the way model #1 carries off the pink pant though.
 

Nicola

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I thought this thread was about pulling? This is disappointing.
 

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