Let's talk about "pull".

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bull, Jun 16, 2010.

  1. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    I think there is confusion between okay pulling and bad pulling. In my opinion, any obvious, well-defined pulling is bad. But you might see some variable tautness that an optimist could attribute to "life" in the cloth or tailoring of a jacket.

    Any pulling at all is a deficiency in fit, though when talking about RTW there is a limit to to just how well anything can fit. If a jacket is not bespoke then a small amount of pulling is probably within an acceptable level of fit; if it is bespoke then in my opinion there should be none.

    Any jacket is going to pull when the wearer is in some of the positions shown in the images posted in this thread though.
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Any pulling at all is a deficiency in fit, though when talking about RTW there is a limit to to just how well anything can fit. If a jacket is not bespoke then a small amount of pulling is probably within an acceptable level of fit; if it is bespoke then in my opinion there should be none.

    Any jacket is going to pull when the wearer is in some of the positions shown in the images posted in this thread though.


    Like I said, until you've defined what you mean by "pulling," it's impossible to say whether it's right or wrong. All I can say is that some apparent tension at the buttoning point doesn't necessarily bother me and can easily appear after eating a meal.
     
  3. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    Because in some tailoring traditions a small amount is OK, even desirable. I don't like it but I am aware that an alternative view exists.

    I still don't get it.

    Like I said, until you've defined what you mean by "pulling," it's impossible to say whether it's right or wrong. All I can say is that some apparent tension at the buttoning point doesn't necessarily bother me and can easily appear after eating a meal.

    I don't know how much people usually eat, but if a meal causes the closing button to pull, the jacket is either too tight, or there is a diet issue. My therapist can recommend a dietician.
     
  4. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A mere indentation? No problem--maybe.

    Wait, what? Isn't a divot an indentation?
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Wait, what? Isn't a divot an indentation?

    An acute indentation. I should be more careful with my words.
     
  6. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    I absolutely like a little pull on my coats. To my eye it reads as fit, fluidity, and motion even when standing still. Coats with no pull at all (which are most of what you see on the streets of our oversized nation) tend to look stiff and/or boxy.
     
  7. JesseJB

    JesseJB Senior member

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    Coats with no pull at all (which are most of what you see on the streets of our oversized nation) tend to look stiff and/or boxy.

    Agreed.

    There is a fine line.
     
  8. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Coats with no pull at all (which are most of what you see on the streets of our oversized nation) tend to look stiff and/or boxy.

    Lies. Obviously a jacket that's slightly too small is better than one that's two sizes too big, but there is a point in the middle where the fit is perfect enough for there to be no pulling while still looking just as fitted.
     
  9. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Coats with no pull at all (which are most of what you see on the streets of our oversized nation) tend to look stiff and/or boxy.

    This is neither stiff nor boxy.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    This is neither stiff nor boxy.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    This is neither stiff nor boxy.

    [​IMG]


    Drapetastic.


    - B
     
  12. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    Damn...nice sportcoat.
     
  13. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    Damn...nice sportcoat.

    Word. Exceptional coat. But in action/motion (which is what what makes the non-WAYWRN world go 'round) I'm sure that even this placid cloth shows some tension here and there and is none the worse for it.
     
  14. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    This is neither stiff nor boxy.

    [​IMG]


    AIRTIE.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    Word. Exceptional coat. But in action/motion (which is what what makes the non-WAYWRN world go 'round) I'm sure that even this placid cloth shows some tension here and there and is none the worse for it.

    It's not unlikely. The whole premise of this thread, however, sprang from that photo of Thom Browne, one arm slightly lifted, the other at his side, the jacket pulling horrifically. A jacket can look quite soft fluid with no pulling at rest and minimal pulling in motion.

    A better topic--how to negate pulling in motion with an action back.
     

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