Let's talk about "pull".

[Martin Stall]

Originally Posted by ruben

It's probably too late for an earnest, non-SF inside joke or hot chick picture reply, but he's mine.


Many of my jackets pull, nothing major, but I notice it.

I think it's due equally to my big hips and thighs and my somewhat s-shaped posture.

It drives me crazy, but I buy my jackets off the rack.
So it's either slight pulling and a good fit everywhere else, or no pull but huge in the chest, shoulders and waist.

I'd say that it's the right way to go, if bespoke isn't available to you.

 

[Bull]

Originally Posted by ruben

It's probably too late for an earnest, non-SF inside joke or hot chick picture reply, but he's mine.


Many of my jackets pull, nothing major, but I notice it.

I think it's due equally to my big hips and thighs and my somewhat s-shaped posture.

It drives me crazy, but I buy my jackets off the rack.
So it's either slight pulling and a good fit everywhere else, or no pull but huge in the chest, shoulders and waist.

Go for the slight pull in front and good fit elsewhere. Since I started lifting weights more, I noticed the same thing - my friends who lift weights and buy OTR suits are constantly going a full size up and then having a tailor hack the suit up beyond repair - looks awful. And note that the pants are a full size up (2 inches more), too, so you start getting MC Hammer pants effect. If you're going OTR, wear your size and live with the little bit of pull or have a tailor carefully let out the sides a bit - always a better bet.

 

[tailorgod]

Sadly, with the latest "fashion" of cutting coats, men with a stronger chest (or waist or hips) don't have too many options left but leaving their coats unbuttoned.
It seems that almost all RTW clothes nowadays are cut for stick-like guys.

But, there is hope! Somewhere on the internet fashion fora is a man who knows all about tailoring or at least enough to instruct his alteration tailor how to let out the chest and length of a RTW coat.

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by MetroStyles

Too much pull around the chest?

Helmut delivers!

 

[Martin Stall]

Originally Posted by tailorgod

Sadly, with the latest "fashion" of cutting coats, men with a stronger chest (or waist or hips) don't have too many options left but leaving their coats unbuttoned.
It seems that almost all RTW clothes nowadays are cut for stick-like guys.

But, there is hope! Somewhere on the internet fashion fora is a man who knows all about tailoring or at least enough to instruct his alteration tailor how to let out the chest and length of a RTW coat.

You wouldn't say....

I just hope his tailor doesn't fire him

 

[Bull]

Once again, the "push"/"pull" contrast highlighted handsomely...

 

[tailorgod]

I think I just found a solution to stop wars (drape and more serious ones): Show some "tatties"!

Back on the subject of "pull" (and combining it with the peacemaker): Here you see the result of way too much pull!

 

[tailorgod]

I think this is the sort of "pull" at the button Manton was writing about?

And yes, it's difficult to get it right.

 

[Sterling Gillette]

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

Let's talk about "push".
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[Montauk]

Originally Posted by tailorgod

I think this is the sort of "pull" at the button Manton was writing about?

And yes, it's difficult to get it right.

That's the stuff. Obviously not to everybody's taste, but a far cry from the trendy slimfit pull people seem to be talking about with such disdain.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by tailorgod

I think this is the sort of "pull" at the button Manton was writing about?

And yes, it's difficult to get it right.

I guess that's less to do with the jacket being too small, as with bad pulling, and more simply the contour produced by quite extreme waist supression?

 

[tailorgod]

This is an original 30's suit and it has indeed some waist suppression.
According to my cutting manuals there were different levels of waist suppression, but still, there is only so much you can take out before it gets ugly.

The catwalk models are very skinny and despite showing a sixpack they have a rather relaxed posture. They arch the back, which influences the balance. In this case the back of the coat gets too short and causes some of the pull at the closing button.

 

[OttoSkadelig]

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

I guess that's less to do with the jacket being too small, as with bad pulling, and more simply the contour produced by quite extreme waist supression?

.. or pinning at the back for effect, surely?

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

.. or pinning at the back for effect, surely?

Comes up all the time when novices ask how they can get "that GQ look."

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

.. or pinning at the back for effect, surely?

Could be...but since it's a vintage suit displayed for, presumably, technical and/or historical study, I would've thought it more likely that it's displayed 'as is'. It's not exactly a GQ cover-shoot.