Lesser Known Japanese Denim Brands

[milosz]

Originally Posted by Doin' Fine.

They get that part right, but what about all that nasty stuff all over 'em?

Look at Evisu on Blue in Green's website - two repro cuts, available with no markings at all or with the white gulls (which are just an interpretation of the Levi arcs, from what I understand).

The bigger, flashier stuff wasn't always their calling card.

 

[acidboy]

my latest Edwins were also that "new vintage" label that Get Smart posted. i've seen different lines from the brand, some more fashion forward, but the ones in that orange label would be SF-approved imo.

 

[somatoform]

Which edwin has the largest thigh areas and widest leg opening (most straight cut, I suppose), ed-47 or nash?

 

[acidboy]

I'm poor with their model number, but I got the straight leg and the thigh area is quite roomy.

 

[onion]

Based on Lightning Magazine, I'd Robokop some Eight-G or Tabloid News jeans immediately if I could just find them. Both had the best fading of all the jeans featured in Lightning Magazine Indigo Masters (and there's a ton).

There was also an ad in it for a pair of 17.5oz super streaky Eight-G denim, that I would kill for. I emailed them once about it, but never got a response. I'm thinking maybe they don't speak English, and couldn't read my email.

 

[Doctor]

Just ordered some Momotaro's from Blue in Green. Might get some pics online when they arrive - it seems information on them is rather scarce, especially on SF (non-existent, actually).

Here's hoping they're good...

 

[uhurit]

A big fan of Evisu Deluxe line here: no ugly over-the-top seagulls, great indigo denim that doesn't bleed or fade much

 

[iwhelan]

Originally Posted by Doctor

Just ordered some Momotaro's from Blue in Green. Might get some pics online when they arrive - it seems information on them is rather scarce, especially on SF (non-existent, actually). Here's hoping they're good...
You won't be disappointed. I have the Momotaro 0201 slim jeans and love them. I went to BiG thinking about buying some Samurais but they didn't have what I wanted in my size. However, they were kind enough to recommend these, which are beautiful. I should take some photos at some point since there is hardly anything on the internet about these. I have had them since April (i think) and have been rotating them with other jeans so they don't have much wear, but I didn't buy them to beat them up as fast as I can. I am enjoying them the way they are now, which is still very dark. They are by far the most luxurious jeans I have ever owned. These are the first Japanese high-end jeans I have purchased though so I can't compare to some of the more popular brands. Other jeans that I wear are Nudie RRDS and APC NS, but the 0201s are my favorites. I like this cut a lot. It is a straight slim cut that doesn't taper as much as my NS and has a higher rise so they are a bit more traditional, while the slimness is still stylish. It is similar to the s5000vx or the s0500xx from Samurai, but maybe a bit slimmer. I have read somewhere that these use Zimbabwe cotton. The quirky thing about these jeans is the pink inseam stitching, which I find to be rather fun. It is so subtle since the rest of the jeans are very traditionally styled. A nice thing about these is that I didn't have to worry much about sizing since they are partially sanforized. Trying them on in the store was pretty much where the waist was going to stay. When I soaked them the waist got a bit snugger but has stretched back out and is comfortable. I had to do two soaks (first was warm and the second was hot) to get all of the shrinking done, mostly for the length. BiG were great at knowing how much to hem and still leave enough length for shrinking so that they are perfect after soaking. Good luck with them! -Ian Edit: here are some quick photos... better than nothing..

 

[Doctor]

Thanks a million for that info, iwhelan. From those pics, that is EXACTLY the fit I am after! I got them because they're pretty much a slimish straight leg with a tiny, tiny bit of taper below the knee. I also needed a minimum 12" upper thigh due to my cyclist legs.

I got the 0701, which has less of a taper compared to the 0201. I need that because my legs are pretty thick. It goes in a half inch between the knee and leg opening, which I feel is enough to give a neat look whilst still being close to a straight leg.

The pink inseam stitching sounds cool - I hope the 0701 has that feature.

Question: Do they stretch out? I bought them so they'd be pretty tight at first right through the waist/upper leg (without squeezing the intestines out of me) in anticipation that after some wearing they'd loosen up. I'm hoping I won't have to return them for 1 size up. Wait and see I guess.

 

[iwhelan]

Glad I can help. For future reference, I am about 6'3" and those are size 31. Your model should have the pink inseam. They do stretch a bit but not majorly. You may want to avoid very hot water f they are already pretty snug. Even f they do shrink when you soak them they will stretch back out. These are not as stretchy as apc or nudie though probably because of the heavier weight denim and what seems to be a tight weave.

Good luck!

 

[IIIrd Icon]

Originally Posted by somatoform

Takumi on BiG is a brand I don't hear much of, certainly not as much as other brands. Judging by the pics, I would love a pair if only I could get in on the 50% sale that BiG sometimes has on them.

tried them on @American Rag Cie in La Brea [LA] cuz they were like 70% off(?). denim looks decent, but fit was not good [on me, ei]. maybe that's why they're not selling.

 

[happy hooligan]

I picked these up a few weeks ago at one of those hollywood Movie clothing stores. Warner Bros had them... Bartack by System U

Looks like never washed raw too... my size too....

 

[onion]

Originally Posted by onion

Based on Lightning Magazine, I'd Robokop some Eight-G or Tabloid News jeans immediately if I could just find them. Both had the best fading of all the jeans featured in Lightning Magazine Indigo Masters (and there's a ton).

There was also an ad in it for a pair of 17.5oz super streaky Eight-G denim, that I would kill for. I emailed them once about it, but never got a response. I'm thinking maybe they don't speak English, and couldn't read my email.

Using this new Japanese translator thing I found on SZ (which is awesome btw, link), I found pictures of the jeans I was talking about. (Quite easily in fact)

Anyways, here is a similar model, which is 19oz denim dyed with natural indigo. Unfortunately, they retail for around $550.

 

[IIIrd Icon]

^ yup, saw a well worn pair on Lightning, too. seems similar weave w/purple selvedge as Oni Shoai and KMW AWA . pretty cool!

 

[Doctor]

Got my Momotaro's. Heck they're tight. Mainly because all the measurements on Blue in Green's website were out by 1". But they're not so tight they won't stretch (hopefully). I know the pics look marsupialed, but I took them to ask about fit... So there are a variety of poses for you to enjoy. Each less natural than the last

And yes! I got the pink inseam stitching! So pleased. The denim is so stiff. Getting the jeans to soften up and stretch is going to kill me. Also, the tag on the inside ammused me. It reads as follows: "It will be Okayama if it's called Momotaro. It will be Momotaro if it's called Okayama. It will be Okayama if it's called jeans. It will be jeans if it's called Momotaro."