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Distorbiant

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Himel Bros, TFH, RMC and GW all use Shinki leather. That said, TFH's Shinki is, IMHO, a tad stiffer than the other brands (although not as stiff as Horween FQHH). Fantastic quality and craftsmanship, but the leather must be broken in.

Similarly, TFH's t-shirts are thicker than most, and TFH's flannels are also thicker than most. Seems to be a common trait of TFH products.

They use Shinki Leather but not all of their jackets are made from it.
 

Adroit

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Himel Bros uses almost exclusively Shinki HH for its leather jackets (HB recently offered a very limited deerskin jacket)

RMC uses Shinki, but also deerskin and buffalo (Shinki is the most common hide)

I have only seen TFH leather jackets made from Shinki -- TFH may use other leathers (I have no idea)

GW uses many different hides, including Shinki, and also including a new Italian HH

Freewheelers and Rainbow Country also use Shinki HH.
 
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dieworkwear

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Himel Bros uses almost exclusively Shinki HH for its leather jackets (HB recently offered a very limited deerskin jacket)

RMC uses Shinki, but also deerskin and buffalo (Shinki is the most common hide)

I have only seen TFH leather jackets made from Shinki -- TFH may use other leathers (I have no idea)

GW uses many different hides, including Shinki, and also including a new Italian HH

Freewheelers and Rainbow Country also use Shinki HH.


Adroit, you own the RMC Buco repro, correct? Do you own any other leather jackets? I think I might hold out for that StyleForum x Thurstons project for a black moto, but I wouldn't mind maybe getting another leather jacket like this TFH piece you pictured above. Seems like we're interested in some of the same leathers. Do you have any you'd recommend, besides that RMC? The TFH piece at SE looks tempting, but I'm curious if there's anything else I should be considering.

FWIW, I have a Buzz Rickson A-2. Although I like it, it doesn't get that much wear. I have an RRL cowhide moto that I wear a lot more. Not 100% sure if it's because the styling is a little less "true repro," of if it's because I like motos better than flight jackets at the moment.
 

Adroit

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Adroit, you own the RMC Buco repro, correct?
Do you own any other leather jackets?

Yes. I have a problem/addiction. I own leather jackets from RMC, Himel Bros, RRL, RLPL, Loro Piana, Rag & Bone, Sulka, and several other manufacturers. I currently have jackets on order from Aero (being made as I type this) and Eastman/ELMC.
Quote:
That looks like a real interesting project. Moreover, Carrie is wonderful to work with.


I currently favor the following leather jacket manufacturers: RMC, GW, Himel, ELMC, Freewheelers, Bill Kelso, Aero, Rainbow Country, Flat Head, Toys McCoys, and some RRL.

FWIW, I have a Buzz Rickson A-2. Although I like it, it doesn't get that much wear.

I am not a big fan of A-2s. I like A-1s more, although I have yet to pull the trigger (Himel's Heron is fantastic).

I have an RRL cowhide moto that I wear a lot more. Not 100% sure if it's because the styling is a little less "true repro," of if it's because I like motos better than flight jackets at the moment.
If you are speaking of the below RRL, I own the same jacket and I love it!!!!

 
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sinnedk

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I currently favor the following leather jacket manufacturers: RMC, GW, Himel, ELMC, Freewheelers, Bill Kelso, Aero, Rainbow Country, Flat Head, Toys McCoys, and some RRL.


wanna give some insight on why those? and maybe links
 

thekunk07

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@thekunk07 is RO leather completely dyed through? Did you ever notice after a lot of wear that the jacket faded colors and showed brown or something like that?


no have never had wear, only creasing on the hammered lamb
 

Adroit

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Sure.

First, I am somewhat old school and I prefer older jacket styles, including J-100s, half-belts, Californian, etc. The listed manufacturers specialize in these and other similar designs. While I appreciate (some of) the more avante garde, contemporary designs (particularly MA+), I am not yet ready to venture down that path (although MA+ is, admittedly, tempting). Moreover, the particularly slim contemporary designs do not work well on my middle-aged body.

Second, the listed manufacturers consistently deliver outstanding quality and workmanship. The stitching and other details are first rate.

Third, the listed manufacturers use high quality, durable and interesting leathers.

Links:

RMC: https://www.realmccoys.co.jp/catalog/

Himel: http://www.himelbros.com/

ELMC: http://www.elmc.co/jackets-c-59.html

Freewheelers Blog: http://freewheelers.co.jp/blog/

Freewheelers at McFlys: http://mcflystore.web.fc2.com/stock/stock.html

Rainbow Country at Mushmans: http://shop.mushmans.com/?mode=grp&gid=183194&sort=n

Goodwear: http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/index.html

Bill Kelso Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/billkelsomfg?fref=photo

Bill Kelso: http://www.billkelsomfg.com/site/#!home

Aero: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=classicleather

Toys McCoys: http://www.toys-mccoy.com/
 

Adroit

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nice list, is it in order from favorite to least favorite?

No order to the list. That said, RMC is probably my favorite, both because their quality is incredible and because they offer many different designs. Himel is up there, but they only have a few models to choose from. A few of the listed manufacturers are truly outstanding, but focus on military reproductions (e.g., A-2s) that I do not care for and only make a couple of models that I like (e.g., GW). I love Freewheelers, but I do not yet own any of their leather (I have a wool jacket and several shirts). ELMC also has a limited selection of models (ELMC's parent, Eastman, has a broader lineup, but focuses on military reproductions) -- I have an ELMC Californian on order. Bill Kelso is an odd duck -- fantastic leathers and quality, along with a broard selection of styles, but the company representatives are a bit quirky (euphemism intended). Aero would not have been on my list a few months ago because I am not a fan of Horween leather; however, with the addition of the Italian full grain veg tanned HH, Aero has my attention -- I have a seal brown Plainsman under construction right now -- Aero is also offering an interesting new goat hide. Toys McCoys Beck repro is fantastic and, if I did not own RMC's Buco J-100, I would buy it (in fact, the Beck is so stellar that I am tempted to buy it notwithstanding the similarity to my J-100). There are many other noteworthy manufacturers making similarly styled jackets, including Alexander, Lost Worlds and Diamond Dave, to name a few.
 
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kiya

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No order to the list.  That said, RMC is probably my favorite, both because their quality is incredible and because they offer many different designs.


If RMC is your favorite you're about to be very pleasantly surprised when you feel Flat Head's offerings. They're extremely close, both getting top picks of what Shinki has to offer due to their relationship with the tannery.. and the construction is so close that i believe they're actually made by the same sewing shop, the difference is in the fits, hardware, and small details.
 

dieworkwear

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No order to the list.  That said, RMC is probably my favorite, both because their quality is incredible and because they offer many different designs.  Himel is up there, but they only have a few models to choose from.  A few of the listed manufacturers are truly outstanding, but focus on military reproductions (e.g., A-2s) that I do not care for and only make a couple of models that I like (e.g., GW).  I love Freewheelers, but I do not yet own any of their leather (I have a wool jacket and several shirts).  ELMC also has a limited selection of models (ELMC's parent, Eastman, has a broader lineup, but focuses on military reproductions) -- I have an ELMC Californian on order.  Bill Kelso is an odd duck -- fantastic leathers and quality, along with a broard selection of styles, but the company representatives are a bit quirky (euphemism intended).  Aero would not have been on my list a few months ago because I am not a fan of Horween leather; however, with the addition of the Italian full grain veg tanned HH, Aero has my attention -- I have a seal brown Plainsman under construction right now -- Aero is also offering an interesting new goat hide.  Toys McCoys Beck repro is fantastic and, if I did not own RMC's Buco J-100, I would buy it (in fact, the Beck is so stellar that I am tempted to buy it notwithstanding the similarity to my J-100).  There are many other noteworthy manufacturers making similarly styled jackets, including Alexander, Lost Worlds and Diamond Dave, to name a few.


There was a Diamond Dave Buco repro that flew under the radar on eBay for a bit. Really great price, but was unfortunately not in my size. I've also liked Lost World, but like with Kelso, the "reps" can be ... quirky.

That Californian looks great, btw.

The RRL I have is a dark brown cowhide cafe racer. No distressing; four zip pockets; gold colored zips. I really like it.

Actually really like some of those Grizzly repros, but not sure my skinny, academic self has the lifestyle to pull it off.
 
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Adroit

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I will not be surprised if I like the new FH jacket. I have been impressed with all of the FH jackets I have previously seen (all at SE). Im glad FH dropped the odd detailing on the sides of the jacket (I don't know what you call it, but it was a deal breaker). My only concern about the new jacket is the shoulder size in relationship to the chest size. Have LA set aside a 44 for me (its rare that a 44 is a true 44 -- I usually wear a 40 or 42, which measures out to be a 44). Thanks!!!
 
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Distorbiant

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Adroit do you own any black leathers?

I've been toying with the idea of getting my Vanson/SF rider in a black horsehide, but I'm not sure I'll like the fade to brown effect on it.

It's near impossible to find pics of well-worn black horsehide.
 
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Adroit

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Adroit do you own any black leathers?

Yes -- several.

I've been toying with the idea of getting my Vanson/SF rider in a black horsehide, but I'm not sure I'll like the fade to brown effect on it.

It's near impossible to find pics of well-worn black horsehide.

There are two different types of black HH. One type is black on the surface, with a brown under layer (this is frequently called "tea core"). This black will show brown when scratched and/or heavily worn. Many like this vintage look. The other type is black on the surface, with a black under layer (RMC calls this "deep black"). This black will remain black even when scratched and/or after heavy wear. I personally prefer the deep black (both my RMC black Shinki HH and Himel black Shinki HH are deep black).
 

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