Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    do they do a live demo too :p, I am actually curious to see it...
     


  2. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Very aggressive waist treatment on the black slip on , is this a recent in a fashion thing lately, or they're just more following the English since Day 1
     


  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Actually, most English shoe makers (to my understanding) don't really make shoes with an aggressive waist save for Girling. Always thought it was the Italians, and maybe the Japanese who pushed the conventions. Correct me if I'm wrong.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2013


  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    I have no idea, probably my view was influenced by seeing all the G&G...
     


  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mr. Bottier offers 2 very different styles: the full bodied look of French trad (from Altan Bottier, where he apprenticed), and the aggressive Italian style influenced from Spigola. I say the slip ons fits the latter style. He spent some time living in France, so I won't be surprised if he's been influenced by some of the big names such as Corthay, or even G&G.
     


  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Oh yes! Missed out the French who tend to make aggressive stuff too! Bottier, Corthay, Berluti ... Never seen a Berluti bespoke though. Are those available in Japan too? I'm in SEA now and there's a Berluti boutique over here. Very pricey.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2013


  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Honestly, I'm not sure how many of the European shoemakers actually take notice of Japanese made shoes.....other than the fact that the Japanese seem eager to apprentice under them.



    I just dropped by Corthay's Bespoke show (manned by their bespoke craftsman Yasu Shioda), and their sample looked very aggressive (much more than the RTW). Shioda-san is doing a shoemaking demo @ Isetan until the 18th if any one is interested. I also handled their new camel skin Arcas. Looked and felt like pigskin to me :)

    I know Berluti does Bespoke shows twice a year in Japan, but not sure how it's gonna work since LVMH bought them off.

    Corthay and Berluti Bespokes both starts from ¥600K yen ($6000 USD+ ). Yes, very pricey
     


  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Beveled waist is not a recent invention or style, but G&G definitely made the most sharply angled fiddleback beveled waist.

    That waist treatment is just a typical beveled waist, with a pretty high heel.
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, typcial beveled waist, but nonetheless pretty :)

    [​IMG]
     


  10. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    ridiculously pretty. but imo square waste will provide a bit more utility/strength given that they are side elastic shoes. but its just me.
     


  11. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Unbelievable. I wonder if waists like that affect the stability of the shoe in any way at all. Probably not given that out foot rests mainly on the heels and the front.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2013


  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    More warped around insole and waist to waist heel stiffener. Otherwise, nothing extra.
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I know Masaru Okuyama and Osamu Egawa (o.e.) make insoles that wraps around the arch to give extra strength and support. This in conjunction with an extended heel stiffener should be quite adequate, I think.

    [​IMG]
    Masaru Okuyama's Insoles
     


  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The tsunami escape pod is called 'LIFE ARMOUR'. It's pretty much indestructable and floats on water. For up to 4 adults. Costs ¥538K or so ($5400 USD). Straight out of Dragon Ball Z :lol:

    [​IMG]
    From Tokyo Hands Shinjuku

    [​IMG]
     


  15. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Yuki Shirahama Bottier
    Master at work.

    Chiaro

    [​IMG]


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