Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[ChristopherBerr]

Thanks for a great post, Nutcracker!

Here's a great video for anyone who wants to see Fujimotosan in action:



He doesn't appear until the last half of the video or so.

Great stuff all around!

 

[Gianni Cerutti]



Marquess
3 Eyelet Derby
Brown Lizard

Marquess Blog

Nice model and material

 

[VegTan]

An set of vintage Otsuka Shoes advertisement from the early 20th century (Taisho era) Were available in Box Calf, a variety of kidskin (apparently a popular choice back then), and Willow Calf

Spoiler

They are quite sleek shoes. What is the right most leather it is kid but what kind?

Looks like a Japanese importer pronounced Vici Kid as By-Cy Kid incorrectly.

 

[nutcracker]



Looks like a Japanese importer pronounced Vici Kid as By-Cy Kid incorrectly.

Excellent observation! Never would have guessed. Thanks for your insight!


By the way, today I dropped by Jinbocho, the bookstore town, and scored some old, out of print shoe-related tomes.

Top: 100 years of Shoe Industry in Japan
Bottom two: 100 years of Otsuka Shoes

Got lots of fascinating old photos, would love to scan and share on SF one day....

 

[BespokeMakers]

il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Tassel Loafer
Photos from http://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com/

 

[nutcracker]



il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Tassel Loafer Photos from http://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com/

Violet!!

 

[nutcracker]

A very special pair of Gaziano & Girling Bespoke, made by Shoji Kawaguchi

Last designed by Tony, shoes executed by Shoji.

shoes courtesy of Masa Hasegawa

 

[chogall]

Who did the pattern? Shoji's wife? Sole and heel details?

 

[nutcracker]



Who did the pattern? Shoji's wife? Sole and heel details?

I believe the last / pattern is by Tony-san (and his team), and Shoji-san (and wife?) was designated to do the making.

Sorry for the grainy photo (my old iPhone).

 

[mimo]

That is remarkable. This thread has the highest concentration of exceptional things on SF.

A question, though: I can see why the "lazyman" style is popular in Japan, given the convention of removing one's shoes indoors. I like the way the small panels across the elasticated gusset disguise it. But it occurs to me that after all the wonderful work and the significant investment in having these shoes made bespoke, that elastic is a seriously weak link - literally. At some point it's going to sag and wrinkle, and be very difficult to replace with re-stitching all those little panels. Is is even possible? And how?

I really love this style of shoe, and have a similar practical reason for interest in formal-looking slip-ons. But I'm worried about how they will last. Educate me!

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Excellent observation! Never would have guessed. Thanks for your insight!


By the way, today I dropped by Jinbocho, the bookstore town, and scored some old, out of print shoe-related tomes.

That's where I work (Meiji University), you should have dropped me a line...

That is remarkable. This thread has the highest concentration of exceptional things on SF.

Yes, it's easily the best thread on SF right now.

 

[nutcracker]



That's where I work (Meiji University), you should have dropped me a line...  

Oh forgot about that!
Kanda`s got some good unagi`s and soba`s too, if I recall
Maybe next time!

 

[wurger]



That is remarkable.  This thread has the highest concentration of exceptional things on SF.

A question, though: I can see why the "lazyman" style is popular in Japan, given the convention of removing one's shoes indoors.  I like the way the small panels across the elasticated gusset disguise it.  But it occurs to me that after all the wonderful work and the significant investment in having these shoes made bespoke, that elastic is a seriously weak link - literally.  At some point it's going to sag and wrinkle, and be very difficult to replace with re-stitching all those little panels.  Is is even possible?  And how?

I really love this style of shoe, and have a similar practical reason for interest in formal-looking slip-ons.  But I'm worried about how they will last.  Educate me!

Should post this on the foster thread, they famous for this style!

 

[nutcracker]

Sadly I don`t own side elastic shoes, so perhaps some others may chip in!

But yes, elastic shoes seem to have a continued popularity in Japan. Here are some pictures I took (with camera) from the old Otsuka Shoes book (pub. 1971) I recently bought. The pics showcase some of the shoes Otsuka made for the royal family.


`Royal Footwear` for 3 generations of emperors (Meiji, Taisho, Showa)

1. (top) Side Elastic shoes (Emperor Meiji)
2. (right) Side Elastic boots (Emperor Taisho)
3. (bottom) Punched toe oxfords (Emperor Showa)

The shoes in the picture are actually`sister shoes` (identical to those actually worn), I suppose they were kept in case replacements are needed right away.


`Shoes for the Royal Couple` (Emperor Showa and Empress Kojun)

The bottom right (#6) is a pair of `Lazyman` Side Elastic shoes.

 

[Gianni Cerutti]

il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Tassel Loafer
Photos from http://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com/

Very dandy shoes