Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[nutcracker]



Hi
I am not clear about the construction of the Spigola MTO shoes and would appreciate any input as I might be interested in purchasing a pair.
The construction seems to be referred as hand sewn welt but machine stitched for the front part of the sole. Anyone could give any light on what that means? Is it similar to for example Saint Crispin and the bespoke offering from say Gaziano Girling? 
Or is it like the traditional RTW from the british makers, meaning goodyear welted with gemming?

Thank you!

Hi Bams,

Spigola`s MTO shoes are made alongside the bespoke shoes by the same team of craftsmen (Koji, Etsuo etc..): Hand lasted and handsewn welted. The difference (construction-wise) is in the outsole: Spigola bespokes (as well as G&G bespokes) are handstitched, while the MTOs are machine stitched. However, the dress soles of the MTO shoes have hand stitched waist (to hide the stitches).

Comparatively, Spigola MTOs are closer to St.C in the construction process, than to English GTW shoes.

 

[Bams]

Hi Bams,

Spigola`s MTO shoes are made alongside the bespoke shoes by the same team of craftsmen (Koji, Etsuo etc..): Hand lasted and handsewn welted. The difference (construction-wise) is in the outsole: Spigola bespokes (as well as G&G bespokes) are handstitched, while the MTOs are machine stitched. However, the dress soles of the MTO shoes have hand stitched waist (to hide the stitches).

Comparatively, Spigola MTOs are closer to St.C in the construction process, than to English GTW shoes.

Thank you so much for the informative reply! And also for all the tempting pictures you have posted

 

[Bams]

Hi Bams,

Spigola`s MTO shoes are made alongside the bespoke shoes by the same team of craftsmen (Koji, Etsuo etc..): Hand lasted and handsewn welted. The difference (construction-wise) is in the outsole: Spigola bespokes (as well as G&G bespokes) are handstitched, while the MTOs are machine stitched. However, the dress soles of the MTO shoes have hand stitched waist (to hide the stitches).

Comparatively, Spigola MTOs are closer to St.C in the construction process, than to English GTW shoes.

If I may just ask one more thing, does it mean then that there is no cork under the sole, like on bespoke, since there should not be any gap to fill? It was my understanding that the gap filled by cork is created by the machine stitched welt, but my knowledge is limited so I may just be mixing things up

Thank you again

 

[nutcracker]



amazing posts! keep it up!

Thanks bud!

Spigola on japanese TV program.

http://www4.nhk.or.jp/ippin/x/2014-03-25/10/32748/

Oh, I must check it out!

A close-up pic of an old Spigola bespoke.... Tight stitches

 

[Tony Montana]

Stunning. Is there any way of ordering Spigola MTO from anywhere in Europe? Thanks!

 

[nutcracker]



If I may just ask one more thing, does it mean then that there is no cork under the sole, like on bespoke, since there should not be any gap to fill? It was my understanding that the gap filled by cork is created by the machine stitched welt, but my knowledge is limited so I may just be mixing things up

Thank you again

FIllers are indeed used to fill the gap (usually on the front half of the sole) for handsewn welted shoes too. Not sure what Spigola uses, probably sheet cork or felt... Factory assembled GYW shoes tend to use a thick layer of hot cork pulp. Someone like Bengal-stripe may have a better answer.

 

[Bams]

FIllers are indeed used to fill the gap (usually on the front half of the sole) for handsewn welted shoes too. Not sure what Spigola uses, probably sheet cork or felt... Factory assembled GYW shoes tend to use a thick layer of hot cork pulp. Someone like Bengal-stripe may have a better answer.

Thank you, much appreciated

 

[nutcracker]



Stunning. Is there any way of ordering Spigola MTO from anywhere in Europe? Thanks!

The only international outlet for Spigola (so far) is The Armoury. You may want to catch one of their trunk shows at Hong Kong or New York (this Spring). Perhaps they will take Spigola to their London location (Drakes) too!

I don`t think Spigola takes new orders over mail/phone.

 

[cigarMan]

Dear Nutcracker,

Great reports as always, you are making us dream of Japanese shoes…
Two question regarding Spigolas workshop: Did you photograph the machine they are using to stitch the soles? And did you photograph the sewing machine for the uppers?
The stitching looks absolutely outstanding.

Thanks a lot and many greetings,

CigarMan

 

[nutcracker]



Dear Nutcracker,

Great reports as always, you are making us dream of Japanese shoes…
Two question regarding Spigolas workshop: Did you photograph the machine they are using to stitch the soles? And did you photograph the sewing machine for the uppers?
The stitching looks absolutely outstanding.

Thanks a lot and many greetings,

CigarMan

Thanks for your kind words!

MTO shoes` soles are taken to a contracted factory to be machine stitched.
The sewing machines for the upper are old Singer Cirdar`s and old Seiko`s.
and yes I absolutely agree. Their stitchwork (both bespoke and MTO) is outstanding.

 

[Tony Montana]

The only international outlet for Spigola (so far) is The Armoury. You may want to catch one of their trunk shows at Hong Kong or New York (this Spring). Perhaps they will take Spigola to their London location (Drakes) too!

I don`t think Spigola takes new orders over mail/phone.

Thanks a lot for the quick reply!
What does "MTO" exactly mean in Spigola's case? Do they adjust the three offered standard lasts for fit? If yes, do they offer trial shoes for their MTO line?

 

[nutcracker]



Thanks a lot for the quick reply!
What does "MTO" exactly mean in Spigola's case? Do they adjust the three offered standard lasts for fit? If yes, do they offer trial shoes for their MTO line?

Spigola`s MTO allows only minor last adjustments (to accommodate high instep, for example), and they don`t offer trial shoes either. They do allow minor, if not reasonable changes to the designs (on/off a medallion etc...).

 

[Tony Montana]

Spigola`s MTO allows only minor last adjustments (to accommodate high instep, for example), and they don`t offer trial shoes either. They do allow minor, if not reasonable changes to the designs (on/off a medallion etc...).

Does that mean they offer their MTO shoes in different widths etc. or is it a matter of luck to fit in one of their sizes?
Many thanks!

 

[nutcracker]



Does that mean they offer their MTO shoes in different widths etc. or is it a matter of luck to fit in one of their sizes?
Many thanks!

The latter

They only offer one width. If you fit a standard E in English shoes, should be no problem IMO.

 

[Tony Montana]

The latter

They only offer one width. If you fit a standard E in English shoes, should be no problem IMO.

That makes me want to try to order remotely even more Trying to think of a way to find out my size now...