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Is this a defect?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by daxvex, Nov 21, 2012.

  1. daxvex

    daxvex New Member

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    Hello all:

    I just purchased a custom made suit and when the final product came, I noticed a slight difference between the way the darts on the front end. On the left, the dart comes apart in a noticeable V, while the one on the right finishes cleanly. Something that is not apparent because the photos are taken head-on with flash is that the one of the left also puffs up ever so slightly because there is loose fabric around the top. I mentioned this to the tailor and he said that it just requires ironing, but no matter how much pressing I do, it does not go away. This is my first custom suit and the first suit I've bought since college 10 years ago so I'm by no means an expert on this. My question is:

    1. Is this a defect? Should I go back to the tailor to have him fix it?
    2. What is involved in fixing something?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  2. tgt465

    tgt465 Senior member

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    This is a handmade item, not something that comes off a robot assembly line. You should expect some minor imperfections.
     


  3. SpiffEngineer

    SpiffEngineer Senior member

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    This looks like tailor's chalk to me... which should come off very easily. If I were you, I would just leave it there, and let it come off when you dry-clean the suit.
     


  4. daxvex

    daxvex New Member

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    Thanks for the response. I'm not talking about the white horizontal line, that's actually part of the fabric and just fine. I'm talking about the difference in the way the vertical dart ends and comes apart with some loose fabric in the first picture, but ends cleanly in the second one. Maybe I'm being to detailed, but for a custom suit, I somehow expected more.
     


  5. deveandepot1

    deveandepot1 Senior member

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    This
     


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is about pressing, you may not be pressing it well. Sometimes the left side looks different because of having the breast pocket there and not on the other side. The pocket is filling in on the chest. Of all the things about having a custom suit, this is very minor.
     


  7. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    He isn'l looking at the "white line" across the dart. He is looking at the dart...
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    More specific, he is noticing the little "puff" in the cloth around the point the dart finishes. It is more on the right front than the left front
     


  9. SpiffEngineer

    SpiffEngineer Senior member

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    Yes, I see that now. It's a very small detail of how the piece was sown, and the angles at which the fabric was placed during the construction of the dart, as well as how it may have shifted during sowing. This could be considered a defect, but it is relatively small, though corrigible through re-making the dart. Whether you ask the tailor to re-do this should depend on your relationship with them, and whether you expect better results from a remake. While this is noticeable to yourself, I doubt that I would notice this detail on anyone's suit; so whether or not you opt to have this corrected really comes down to how much it bothers you.
     


  10. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    Yep...
     


  11. daxvex

    daxvex New Member

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    Ah, yes the pocket makes sense. It does seem minor in hindsight -- the tailor is pretty new and trying to build a reputation, and I am inexperienced so perhaps I let him set my expectations a bit too high. I might just leave it but just to indulge my curiosity, to fix this should I press across the top of the dart? Reading jefferyd's post on pressing, he seemed to indicate that pressing across the dart is a bad idea so I avoided that and just pressed on either side of the dart.
     


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