show details 9:17 PM (23 hours ago) \t Taking in the sides of an off the rack jacket: The most common alteration on a jacket seems to be the sleeve length, but we have beat that one to death. The second is altering the sides. the easiest way is to take in the center back seam, but that only works well is when the customer has a narrow back and a flat seat, and that does not happen very often. So, let's take a look at some of the different possibilities... PLAN A The side seams is the usual place to take in the body of the coat, but note the side seam is located more toward the back rather than the true side of the coat, but that is the most convenient seam to work with. If the amount to be taken in is small, the sewing stops just short of the armhole (see the arrows at the armhole). If the amount taken in is a great deal, then this part of the armhole must be opened to allow the side seam to be finished cleanly. if the amount to be taken in is large, the reduction concentrates mostly toward the back. That's because that seam is closer to the back. If the looseness is near to the back, that's fine. But, what if the looseness is more to the front? This calls for the one and only PLAN B. [this must be where the term came from]. So, let's go there. PLAN B Here's the plan. Since the looseness is more to the front, the cloth is taken in at the front of the side seam. Yes, a seam can be taken in or let out on one side only instead of both sides at the same time. Taking in this way pulls in more at the front and less at the back. See the first dotted line. We also may need to do the something at the armhole, just like plan A. If a great deal must be taken in at the front, then a problem may arise, see the second dotted line. the amount of pull at that seam may be so great that it creates lines of strain [pull]. See the dotted line of arrows? This can often be seen on the coat itself. So, what to do? Believe me, there is also a PLAN C. PLAN C Here's the plan, let's use the underarm seam. It's closer to both the front and closer to the side. That's a great idea, eh? ... as long as we do the armhole thing again. Oh, oh, what's that horizontal line cutting through the seam? It's the pocket, now what to do? The solution is simple, but doing it is a big job and headache. The pocket must be taken apart first, and then remade after the seam is taken in. This adds a great deal to the cost, but with better effect. What to do when the back and sides fit perfectly, but the front looks like a maternity dress? It's true there is also a PLAN D. PLAN D Here's what we do. The dotted lines show how the front dart is taken in. If there is no dart, one can be made. Taking in the dart works well on a canvased coat, but on a fused job it may look a bit awkward, that's because of the extra bulk of the fusing. In this case, the pocket must be removed and re-made as before. The dart takes in above the pocket. Below the pocket is done at the underarm seam. See the offset of the seam. And no, that will not create lines of draw like Plan B. Plan D is often used for a person with a large chest and flat stomach. Each of these plans can be used single, or in pairs, or all of them together depending on necessity. A weight lifter, for example, with a small waist might need a C and D. If he had a flat seat, he may need the center back seam taken in as well. Remember the more hours of work, the higher the cost, but then there's no substitute for doing the correct alteration.