HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[afterthesuit]

Oh colHolm ol, colHolm ....... @colHolm ..

You sir have mastered the art and science of blending colors and texture (fabrics)

Now, I know you know (and I've said this to you before), but you really should go for a fuller cut (both coat and pens). And frankly, you have no business wearing a soft shoulder because it makes you look round and plump. I would go for a fuller coat and while at it, add some structure to your shoulders.

The pens?? Well, I'll let @Patrick R complete my recommendation there ...

ps. yes, I'm out with my red ink this morning eyes all blazing red too

Alan Bee

Alan, thank you for both the kind words and constructive criticism. I would argue that it is more my gut that makes me look round and plump, and less the soft shoulders in this jacket. I can see what you're saying though, and the rounded shoulder look is amplified by the heavy Donegal fabric. I do wish this jacket was a bit fuller in the chest, I just haven't found the need to make that wish a reality. There are limitations to these OTR jacket fits, as well as my desire to obtain a perfect fit *gasp* from OTR.

Here's another jacket that does have some structure.

Spoiler

For trousers, there is work to be done. I sized up on these to improve thigh room, and the waist is too large, with too much room in the seat. I have ordered my first pair of MTM trousers to address some key issues (overall a fuller cut). I'll be on the lookout for feedback when they arrive.

The colour and textural play in clothing is more where my interest lies. I know not everything I wear will fit just to everyone's liking, and that a certain aesthetic or style of a piece may not be perfect for me. I haven't let that stop me from enjoying it. As both my interest and capabilities skew towards the fabrics and combinations, my purchases are more of a volume game for the sake of variety and learning. An expensive lesson, no doubt.

Cheers

 

[Alan Bee]

Nope. But thes chestnut are better.

@Roy Al

The color of the shoes are fine. It is thier condition which worries me. Please send them to your bootblack for a good boning ....

Alan

 

[Luigi_M]

@Northants bloke I like your concept, but I cannot see well the outcome.
Would you mind to use a better lighted set for your pics?
I like shoes with a bit of round toe too.

 

[Alan Bee]

May be not my fav and I don’t let use it many times.
But I would like you to tell me what is so very wrong with the suit, my friend. It’s the only
Way I may Improve

Cheers

Vic

Ok let’s take a stab ....

1. Get rid of that gray sweater vest. It has no place with a classic Prince of Wales check complete suit

2a.The Coat is perhaps two sizes too small but that’s the lesser sin. The button point is approaching your sternum further betraying the sweater vest (which shouldn’t be there in the first place.

2b. Hacking pockets on a classic POW suit? I say NO. This is further accentuated by the co-conspiring ticket pocket.

3. Trousers. These actually might be ok. Can’t really judge the drape from the way you’re standing.

4. Shoes: You actually nailed this. Classic black bals with a classic POW suit is as classic as you can get.

In sum, I dont think that coat is salvageable. I would get rid of the suit entirely or gift it your your teenage nephew.

Alan

 

[bernoulli]

@Alan Bee

Simply: variety. I am looking at having some fun with my rigs, not only dressing for the occasion. I wanted to have something different. Seems I succeeded (don't forget the gauntlet cuffs). Also, I am not British, so the difference between city and country holds no meaning for me. I wanted to have different pockets in a new suit and the tailor and I had some fun putting together this unique suit. The fit is perfect, in my view, and it is currently my favorite suit. I would gladly welcome your candid criticism of the suit and fit other than the pockets, which are a stylistic choice.

 

[An Acute Style]

@An Acute Style

My good brother, you know I love you and all. I keep saying "tone it down, man" But you won't listen. Surely you've got the goods, no doubt. But you have to hold back some ....

Have a look at @drfwtx He's a noob on here alright, but I've never seen anything so elegant and pleasing to the eyes on here as his post above. A uniform no doubt (navy and grey), but so clinically and artfully executed even in its simplicity.

Alan Bee

Turn down for what? Yes, I know how to be dress conservatively, sometimes I feel like it and sometimes I don’t. Usually, I don’t. I’ve heard you and I am choosing not to listen. I’m ok not looking elegant in your eyes.

 

[Thrift Vader]

@An Acute Style

It doesn't always work. Results will vary.
But keep trying ideas. Try them all.

 

[themanfromLisbon]

Ok let’s take a stab ....

1. Get rid of that gray sweater vest. It has no place with a classic Prince of Wales check complete suit

2a.The Coat is perhaps two sizes too small but that’s the lesser sin. The button point is approaching your sternum further betraying the sweater vest (which shouldn’t be there in the first place.

2b. Hacking pockets on a classic POW suit? I say NO. This is further accentuated by the co-conspiring ticket pocket.

3. Trousers. These actually might be ok. Can’t really judge the drape from the way you’re standing.

4. Shoes: You actually nailed this. Classic black bals with a classic POW suit is as classic as you can get.

In sum, I dont think that coat is salvageable. I would get rid of the suit entirely or gift it your your teenage nephew.

Alan

Ahah! You’re good!
The vest - I think you refer to the cardigan - prevent me from getting cold, and as outside I use an overcoat, nobody notices that. But that’s ok, it’s not the ideal with a POW.
As for the coat, may be the angle of the photo isn’t the ideal, because it’s my number. Also, the vest, by its volume, may give you that impression specially in the sleeves. And this pockets... are very common all along Europe, even in Britain, and even in POW.
But I really appreciated your description of mistakes.

Cheers

Vic

 

[Alan Bee]

Alan, thank you for both the kind words and constructive criticism. I would argue that it is more my gut that makes me look round and plump, and less the soft shoulders in this jacket. I can see what you're saying though, and the rounded shoulder look is amplified by the heavy Donegal fabric. I do wish this jacket was a bit fuller in the chest, I just haven't found the need to make that wish a reality. There are limitations to these OTR jacket fits, as well as my desire to obtain a perfect fit *gasp* from OTR.

Here's another jacket that does have some structure.

Spoiler

View attachment 1110091

For trousers, there is work to be done. I sized up on these to improve thigh room, and the waist is too large, with too much room in the seat. I have ordered my first pair of MTM trousers to address some key issues (overall a fuller cut). I'll be on the lookout for feedback when they arrive.

The colour and textural play in clothing is more where my interest lies. I know not everything I wear will fit just to everyone's liking, and that a certain aesthetic or style of a piece may not be perfect for me. I haven't let that stop me from enjoying it. As both my interest and capabilities skew towards the fabrics and combinations, my purchases are more of a volume game for the sake of variety and learning. An expensive lesson, no doubt.

Cheers

@colHolm

Thank you for your detailed response. I had a look at the navy blazer (spoilered) and while it has slightly more structure in the shoulder, I would extend it more and give it even more structure (if you were to go bespoke or MTM). This extra width will give you more play in the chest (for a fuller chest). The extended shoulders and fuller chest will also allow you to "create a waist" which plays down your belly (as you claim). In the end, the coat takes on a shapely (if manufactured) silhouette and doesn't end up a looking "rounded" like some of the RTW numbers you've shown.

Regarding the penz, I hear you. There's only so much you can do with RTW trousers. I gave up on RTW penz over 14 years ago for similar reasons (big thighs/glutes and small waist)

All in all, I highly commend your honesty and self appraisal. When I started out on here experimenting with cuts, I got butchered by @lordsuperb @sprout and a number of others. What I learned from them (their critiques), I could have learned on my own but at the much greater cost of trial and error.

Best

Alan Bee

 

[themanfromLisbon]

As dear @Alan Bee wasn’t happy with my last attire - and somehow, I agree - and as the weather looks like we will have no winter, and I will be all afternoon at a greenhouse hearing a simphony, I decided for a more spring/summer look. And pardon me my relaxed look
Blue linen/cashmere blazer and ps - Wesley
Shirt and trousers - Hackett
Shoes - Polo suede Cavendish Crockett&Jones

 

[An Acute Style]

X post from Southern Trad. I think a navy knit tie would have been a lot better tie choice here.

 

[DiplomaticTies]

Spoiler: Details

Suit: Eidos
Shirt: Attolini
Tie: Drake's
PS: Poszetka
Shoes: Lobb

 

[jdp234]

View attachment 1110256 View attachment 1110257 View attachment 1110260 View attachment 1110262

Spoiler: Details

Suit: Eidos
Shirt: Attolini
Tie: Drake's
PS: Poszetka
Shoes: Lobb

This is phenomenal.

 

[drfwtx]

Wow thanks for the friendly assessment. I enjoy your use of hyperbole . I obviously played it safe, but that’s pretty much what I prefer - simple, timeless, but still classy/stylish.

@An Acute Style

My good brother, you know I love you and all. I keep saying "tone it down, man" But you won't listen. Surely you've got the goods, no doubt. But you have to hold back some ....

Have a look at @drfwtx He's a noob on here alright, but I've never seen anything so elegant and pleasing to the eyes on here as his post above. A uniform no doubt (navy and grey), but so clinically and artfully executed even in its simplicity.

Alan Bee

 

[An Acute Style]

Not sold on the tie.