HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[lostintranslation]

Hello gents,

I recently purchased my first full-canvased suit from Paul Stuart and was hoping to get some critique here for further alterations. My problem with suits has always been my unusual body shape; I'm not very tall, but I have very broad shoulders for my height.

I decided to purchase this suit from Paul Stuart because they offer suits in a size 39. Their Phineas Cole line was too tight on me, so I had to go with their mainline Paul Stuart, which is considerably baggier. I had the trousers slimmed down to fit similar to their Phineas Cole trousers. In hindsight, I'll probably be going MTM in the future since it was such a hassle to get this suit tailored to such an extreme.

One of the things that's bothering me is how the jacket flares out at the hips. You can see this effect in photos two and three. I'm not sure if this is a result of the waist suppression or not. Do you guys think the jacket flares out too much? Would it an easy fix? If so, I'll take it to the tailor later this week after I've started work.

Any critique would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for any thoughts!

 

[heldentenor]

Lostintranslation, you might post this fit in the Tailors' Thread if you want a more professional, detailed critique of the tailoring and construction issues that might be contributing to what you see as a less-than-ideal fit.

To my eye, the most glaring issue is actually the trousers. Were these tapered evenly from both seams or just one? Below the knee, they hang with a pronounced imbalance.

The jacket back looks clean except for the shoulders, and there appears to be some bunching at the armpits where the sleeves join the jacket, but it would take a more specialized eye than mine to suggest what's causing this.

I really like this suit, and hope you can get the fit you desire from it.

 

[Henry Carter]

The hips are fine IMO. You could let the waist back out though a tiny bit to make it not so obvious to you. Looks like you have very bowed legs, which is an OTR nightmare to fit but mtm won't be much better for that. You could also have the tailor clean up the roll just below the collar of the coat (caused by your square shoulders).

 

[lostintranslation]

heldentenor,

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the Tailors' Thread. I scanned the first page for such a thread but neglected to check the second page as well. I will go ahead and post my question in the Tailors' Thread as well.

As far as the trousers tapering goes, I am not sure if they tapered it evenly from both seams or not. They might just be looking strange in the photos. Is there any easy way to check?

I also agree that there is some strange bunching in the underarm area. The suit feels comfortable and I'm not sure what is causing it. Perhaps someone in the Tailors' Thread will be able to identify.

Thanks for taking the time to respond - I appreciate it!

 

[lostintranslation]



The hips are fine IMO. You could let the waist back out though a tiny bit to make it not so obvious to you. Looks like you have very bowed legs, which is an OTR nightmare to fit but mtm won't be much better for that. You could also have the tailor clean up the roll just below the collar of the coat (caused by your square shoulders).

If you guys think that the hips are fine, then I'm OK with it! You certainly have more expertise in the arena than I do. I'll definitely ask the tailor to clean up the roll.

It looks like I'm receiving some comments regarding the pants. I think that the "bow" might be an effect of the way that they're sitting in the photo. I'll try to retake them to see if I can get them to look normal. I'm not sure that I have very bowed legs, although it's possible.

Thanks!

Edit: Regarding the pants, it's possible that this is just how pants fit on me. I have massive calves too (sigh...) which causes pants to fit strangely. Here's a photo of a pair of unaltered pants (apart from the hem). They have the same "bow" that you're referring to.

 

[Monkeyface]

Wearing my new valstarino today. The weather gods can't decide whether it's going to be a hot or a cold day, so I might just take off the jacket later on.

I should let out these trousers in the thighs. I haven't worn them since last fall, and I suppose all those trips to the gym weren't good for my clothes. It's getting harder and harder to find RTW trousers that actually fit, so I guess Luxire is the way to go from now on. It's too bad, as these Epaulet nori tropical wool trousers were my favourite pair

 

[Wolfon]

I'm obviously a big fan. (See avatar).

--

Happy July 4 to those 'muricans and 'murican sympathizers out there!



(That's not my car. Last year, Mrs. GMMcL bought me a spot on a "Dream Car Tour," where we spent the afternoon driving supercars around the wilds of a local state park. This is just before I drove the 451 Italia)

458*

 

[DonCologne]

Outfit for my first nightshift after a short vacation

 

[Ianiceman]

Very nice Don. Always love to see pics of well executed POW suits. Good choice of accessories too.

 

[heldentenor]

^Spot-on fit, Don! Love the lighter than usual choice of tie for this fit.

 

[FreedBird]

Long time no post here, but I thought I had a chance for a quick picture yesterday.

 

[Murlsquirl]

^ that's how to roll on Independence Day.

 

[An Acute Style]



Long time no post here, but I thought I had a chance for a quick picture yesterday.

]

Nice jacket. Details.

 

[Claghorn]

Poll is up:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/403285/friday-challenge-art-inspired-ending-7-5-2014/0_20

 

[FreedBird]



Nice jacket. Details.

It is one of the slim fit half cavansed offerings from Charles Tyrwhitt. I was actually quite surprised by how nice these suits were for the price. I came across a good sized lot of them and if anyone is interested I can try to pick up some in their size for $350 next time I'm out.