Hickey Freeman Collection suit

[bch]

What can you HF experts tell me about this. It's my first OTR suit purchase in several years, having embraced MTM a while back. I've never tried HF before, but the thing fits me like a glove. MAYBE I need to nip the waist about 1" but that's it. Most important, which is a pet peeve of mine at 5'8", the length of the coat is spot on at 30" (42S).

The suit has the Black "Collection" label with white lettering. "Collection" is centered below "Hickey Freeman." It is made with "Lora Piana Tasmanian Super 120's" in charcoal chalk stripe. The cuff tag says "Regency," which I assume is the model. High button stance (about 2" above my navel) and gorge.

Unfortuantely, single vent. Can they be had double vent?

How is the construction? Fused or canvassed? Good deal at $550 new?

The thing is nice enough for me to abandon MTM, which I embraced after years of frustration over fit issues, particularly coat length. I've always felt I was a 'tweener in that department, shorts being 1/2" too short, and regs being 1" (or more too long).

I've already used Search function, but found nothing right on point. Thanks, folks.

 

[johnnynorman3]

Good bang for the buck. Decent fabric -- not a huge fan of Loro Piana, but the Super 120s Tasmanian has a soft, fairly luxe hand -- and good full canvas construction. If you really like the fit and material, it is a good deal at $550. That's about the standard Filene's Basement price, though I haven't seen any Regency models at FB lately.

 

[shoefan]

I believe the Regency model is made primarily for Saks, and perhaps a few other high end retailers. The two common HF Collection models are Boardroom and Canterbury, one of which has recently been replaced with ____ (Madison?). I suppose they may make a double-vented Regency, but you are unlikely to find many of them.

The Regency model may be (along with what I think the tag calls the HF Collection, or Customized Collection) a higher-end product than the Boardroom/Canterbury line. Check the inside shoulder seam on the jacket; if it's hand-sewn, then this is from the higher end line, if not then it's comparable to the mainline HF production.

$550 is a good, but not awesome, price for this garment. It is definitely canvassed.

 

[johnnynorman3]

The label is consistent with a regular Collection line suit. It is definitely not from the Hand Tailored line. The Customized line is their MTM program, I believe, not an independent RTW line. The Customized suits I've seen have been just a notch above the Collection line, as you say. A little bit more handwork at the sleeves and lining.

I've seen double vented Hickey's -- mostly those made specifically for smaller stores such as Mr. Sids in suburban Boston.

 

[bch]

Shoulders are hand-sewn.

Thanks, guys. You know your stuff.

 

[ROI]

I'm in substantial agreement with what has been said.  Collection is the heart of Hickey's off-the-rack line.  Most of the custom box (stock singles and made-to-measure) also come with the Collection label.  Above Collection is the custom range which, as mentioned, involves more handwork and design flexibility.  

Regency was a short-lived model from about three years ago.  It was characterized as the "most American" of Hickey's silhouettes, softest, roundest shoulder, higher button stance, shorter coat, narrow lapel, etc.  A number of trick models such as sport coats with bi-swing backs, shirred yokes, and button-through pocket flaps were offered on the Regency body, not that they amounted to much volume.  I'd imagine the overwhelming preponderance of Regencys produced resemble yours.  After a couple seasons, Hickey replaced Regency with American Standard,  a model more explicitly recalling Ivy League clothing, including lap seams, hook vents, etc.  American Standard, in turn, led to the line of madras and seersucker debuted last year at Bergdorf's.

The price you paid is probably about a 50% discount from the original (a few years ago) retail price of $1095.  You may see fragile or fringe fabrics at lower prices, but for a perennial like a grey stripe, that's about standard at Filene's, Rack, etc., for Hickey.  For a classic fabric and model in an excellent American make (that is probably $1250 or $1295 at Nordstrom or Saks today), I'd say you made out well.

 

[sashae]

What's the name of their Custom range, and any good tips on how to spot them? I'm planning on hitting the Hickey Freeman sample sale in a week or so, and I'm hoping to score some more good finds...

-s