Help with cummerbund/waistcoat/vest advice for a black shawl collar tuxedo

[hitchedsoon]

Hello all, I need some advice on my wedding get-up.

I'm having a MTM black tuxedo made (shawl collar, 1 button, single breasted) and am deciding between a cummerbund/wasitcoat. The wife-to-be wants a white bowtie, and I actually like the idea as well. So this leaves me with either a white cummerbund or white waistcoat (assuming that the color must match the bowtie?).

I'm not crazy about the cummerbund look, especially in light of the fact that I'm not a small guy (47R, 6ft, 220lb) and those tend to accent the midsection (at least the vest will have some material in the shoulder/chest area as well). I assume that a low U-cut vest would work best with a shawl collar but I am having trouble finding examples, especially in the white tux/black vest combination (help here would be terrific too!).

How do you guys feel about a white low U-cut vest with a white bowtie under a black tuxedo?

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[dopey]

Shawl collar looks best with a cummerbund. If everything fits well, you needn't worry about the thick waist look.
Tell wife no on the white tie. It is generally not a good idea and even worse with a shawl collar. Tell her the truth - everyone will make fun of your wedding pictures in the future if you wear a white tie.
BTW, until I switched to a double breasted DJ, I alsways wore a white cummerbund, although it is cream colored by now. I bet people make fun of the pictures.

 

[SuitedDx]

I have a more contemporary SB shawl tux and I wear a cummerbund with it. I found a cummerbund with the fabric as close to the tux lapel as possible and the combination is great. I typically, out of habit, always have my jacket buttoned so my cummerbund does not really get too much attention. I think vests are trendier (especially with 3 piece suits returning in fashion) but I am partial to the minimalistic look.

If you get a tux MTM, might as well have people noticing its well-fitting lines instead of their attention being directed to your white vest/bowtie. I am also partial to the black tie but that is just my preference.

Also, in regards to attention to midsection, a cummerbund is more forgiving. A vest will bring more attention to your torso since that is where the gorge is pointing towards (by gorge I mean the 'V' or "U"). Also, vests do not accentuate the chests, the shoulders of the suit does that; instead, the vest accentuates the torso.

At the end of the day, it will be your beautiful bride that everyone will be talking about. Congratulations!

 

[Despos]

Listen to both of the replies above.

Cummerbunds repeat the rounded shape of the shawl lapel. More complimentary look

If you want to wear a vest, get a peak lapel. Especially if you are having a more formal, traditional wedding

No white tie.

 

[hitchedsoon]

I hear you guys loud and clear on the cummberbund being more complimentary to a shawl lapel, but why not a white bowtie?

 

[Despos]

White tie is for formal attire. What you are wearing is semi formal.

 

[dopey]

Because you are wearing a tuxedo, not tails so the parts she is suggesting will be a mismatch. It will look funny. Especially because you are wearing a shawl collar tuxedo which is most removed from tails - if you were wearing a one-button peak-lapel DJ with a detached wing collar than a white tie would be sort of OK. In any case, I am betting your wife had in mind a satin silk white tie, which would make you look like you came in third in the voting for prom king. Finally, imagine how your neck will look with black lapels, white collart and white shirt - the white tie will look a little lost where the black shows some contrast - it will just look better. The white pique tie that goes with tails is different thing altogether.

PS I should probably add that no matter what your wife-to-be says, do not wear a wing collar. Regular turndown collar on your formal shirt with a shawl lapel DJ.

 

[Despos]

Listen to dopey and don't give it another thought.

Regarding his comment of a shawl being far removed from tails, I agree. Shawl is the most "relaxed" version of a tuxedo.

 

[Butler]



White tie is for formal attire. What you are wearing is semi formal.

Right on - there is a reason that the rest of the world calls this outfit: Black Tie (or Dinner jacket)

The only part of the White tie and Tails, that can be used when wearing a Tuxedo, is the white waistcoat. This is seldom seen, but is very elegant!

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Concur with everyone - to the OP: stick with the classic black bowtie. You'll regret the white bowtie.

Also, I would suggest you think about opting for a SB peak lapel coat with a DB vest. A shawl coat, while attractive, strikes me as somewhat informal for a groom.

 

[F. Corbera]



I bet people make fun of the pictures.

Consider giving us the opportunity in this thread to do so.

Back to the OP:

As for the notion of the MTM shawl dinner jacket: while it is possible to make every form of lapel ugly, it is perhaps easiest to do so with shawl lapels. Nice ones are very handsome; bad ones, though, are truly, truly awful. "MTM" is a danger acroynm for me when it is mentioned by someone who doesn't have a lot of mileage under their...collar.

I mention that only because you seem unsure in your taste. If you are, I think ET's suggestion to go with peaked lapels makes sense...although, as with the idea of the shawl lapels, I would demur on ET's suggestion of a DB vest. I love those, but again, it's easy to go wrong with it. Get a simple, classic, low cut SB semi-formal vest in black.

Best wishes for happiness.

 

[fritzl]



Consider giving us the opportunity in this thread to do so.

+1

 

[F. Corbera]



The only part of the White tie and Tails, that can be used when wearing a Tuxedo, is the white waistcoat. This is seldom seen, but is very elegant!

Let's include formal pumps, and when done knowledgeably, a high wing collar, as the other things that black tie can borrow from white.

 

[hitchedsoon]

Also, I would suggest you think about opting for a SB peak lapel coat with a DB vest. A shawl coat, while attractive, strikes me as somewhat informal for a groom.

Too late sir, tuxedo is almost complete, but I don't regret it. I opted for the shawl simple because I like the look better, even if tradition dictates that peak is the most formal. I also wanted a slightly trendier look without getting something that will be obsolete next year; it seems shawl is the more popular lapel if the red carpet is any indication.

 

[F. Corbera]



I opted for the shawl simple because I like the look better...

There you go.

As far as being trendy goes, the trend is for guys to ditch the waist covering entirely even with single-breasted dinner jackets. If you decide to go that way, at least:

1. Make sure that your pants rise is high enough to prevent a white triangle beneath your jacket buttoning point.

2. Consider a semi-formal shirt with a hidden placket so that you don't run into a mess with studs being orphaned high above your waistband.

3. Have the pants waistband finished in the same facing as the shawl lapels.