Help Me Decide on a New Topcoat

[Eustace Tilley]

I am looking to order a new topcoat for the winter. The topcoat will be worn over a sportcoat, and w/o a tie. Given that, I'm pretty set on a SB (think DB looks odd if one isn't wearing a suit+tie).

Color / Fabric: Pretty much set on a 17oz. wool in a light gray + brown mix (much like the one worn by Alden in this video: http://dresswithstyle.com/2009/12/06...he-6-x-3-polo/)

Style: I'm thinking SB (as I said), 3 buttons (all dark brown), turnback cuffs, no breast welt, and two flapped pockets + ticket pocket.
I do like envelope pockets, but also like my coats to be reasonably lean and fitted. Would envelope pockets look out of place on such a coat?

Length: Right at the knee. Agree?

Any comments on the above would be helpful,
ET

 

[Michael Ay329]

Is there any remote chance you would consider brown Ashtrakan on the collars & lapels?

Why 17oz for a topcoat?

Are you still open to dumping the ticket pocket?

 

[edmorel]

I'd do that kind of coat a few inches above the knees and no ticket pocket.

 

[GoldenTribe]

Keep the ticket pocket but make it a besom

Strangely I'm having a hard time picturing a coat with no chest pocket, but the idea tickles my fancy. Good call on SB.

 

[edmorel]

wait a minute, no breast pocket and a ticket pocket

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

Is there any remote chance you would consider brown Ashtrakan on the collars & lapels?

Why 17oz for a topcoat?

Are you still open to dumping the ticket pocket?

1. No, absolutely not.

2. No real reason - the fabric I really like is 17oz., and its warm enough for NY winters.

3. Yeah, maybe - you don't like? The fabric is very plain so it wouldn't hurt to embellish it.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by edmorel

wait a minute, no breast pocket and a ticket pocket

That's what I'm thinking for now. If you disagree, provide me with an alternative?

See reason above for why I'd like a TP. I think a breast welt w/o a PS just looks off, and I wouldn't want to use a PS with a topcoat.

 

[medtech_expat]

Originally Posted by edmorel

I'd do that kind of coat a few inches above the knees

+1

Do you have a specific coat in mind RTW or will you have this made? FWIW, Lance as a few Cucinellis which reasonably match your description, IIRC.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by medtech_expat

+1

Do you have a specific coat in mind RTW or will you have this made? FWIW, Lance as a few Cucinellis which reasonably match your description, IIRC.

I'll have this one made up. Thinking of using Mina Adamo's service.

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I am looking to order a new topcoat for the winter. The topcoat will be worn over a sportcoat, and w/o a tie. Given that, I'm pretty set on a SB (think DB looks odd if one isn't wearing a suit+tie).

Color / Fabric: Pretty much set on a 17oz. wool in a light gray + brown mix (much like the one worn by Alden in this video: http://dresswithstyle.com/2009/12/06...he-6-x-3-polo/)

Style: I'm thinking SB (as I said), 3 buttons (all dark brown), turnback cuffs, no breast welt, and two flapped pockets + ticket pocket.
I do like envelope pockets, but also like my coats to be reasonably lean and fitted. Would envelope pockets look out of place on such a coat

Length: Right at the knee. Agree?

Any comments on the above would be helpful,
ET


What about a Balmacaan?
It certainly can be informal enough.

 

[kitonbrioni]

Have you thought about cashmere or camelhair in a camel color?
Plenty of pockets outside and inside.
Several inches below the knee.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by comrade

What about a Balmacaan?

Too loose-fitting for my taste.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by kitonbrioni

Have you thought about cashmere or camelhair in a camel color?
Plenty of pockets outside and inside.
Several inches below the knee.

I did. But several members have mentioned in the past how cashmere may be a bit too fragile for frequent use as an overcoat. So I'm staying away for now.

To distill my questions -

1. Will envelope pockets work on the coat as envisioned?
2. Most people seem against the ticket pocket - any opposing views? Any comments on the turnback cuffs?
3. Sounds like a shorter coat (perhaps an inch above the knee) is the way to go?

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I did. But several members have mentioned in the past how cashmere may be a bit too fragile for frequent use as an overcoat. So I'm staying away for now.

To distill my questions -

1. Will envelope pockets work on the coat as envisioned?
2. Most people seem against the ticket pocket - any opposing views? Any comments on the turnback cuffs?
3. Sounds like a shorter coat (perhaps an inch above the knee) is the way to go?

I have turnback cuffs on a topcoat and an overcoat. I like them, and they cause no trouble.

Knee length is the best length for a topcoat. Much shorter starts looking like a car coat. Nothing wrong with them but they are not topcoats.

 

[kitonbrioni]

I have a dozen or so vintage cashmere (and vicuña) overcoats over 60 years old, most with turnback cuffs. None of them so show much if any visible wear. However, the linings are often completely wornout and threadbare without showing any real wear on the cashmere exterior.