Should I buy a double-breasted suit as a large guy?

[jcortez]

I’m looking to get a new suit for this F/W but am debating if I should make it my first DB.

Up until now, I’ve mostly avoided them since I’m already pretty large and don’t want to over-exaggerate it: 6’4”, 42 inch chest.

It’s also worth noting that I tend to wear tailoring relatively casually and often wear jackets unbuttoned and/or without a tie/with knitwear.

With that said, if anyone has been in a similar situations to me, got any advice?

Probably going to go for something in a cold, dark shade of brown if I go through with it. Since I’m trying to avoid flapping fabric when unbuttoned, I’m probably going to get something a bit tighter than I would with a regular SB.

Debating as well whether I should go with a 6x1 buttoning stance or a 6x2: the latter creates a deeper V which is desirable yet runs the risk of looking outdated I feel. Thoughts?

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

6x2 is much, much better, in my opinion. I think most here on SF would vote for a 6x2 over the 6x1. I only own one double breasted suit in my entire collection and it's a 6x2 navy Borrelli.

You actually run the risk of looking much more dated in a 6x1 suit...here's a good article that gives a history of the look and how it is slowly making a small comeback: https://therake.com/stories/style/hallmark-sartorial-rebel-6x1-double-breasted-jacket/

Where will you be wearing this suit? If this is your first double breasted suit, then you may want to opt for navy or gray...much more versatile in my opinion than brown.

I would, personally, never walk around with a DB suit unbuttoned. It just doesn't look right. If you want to avoid "flapping fabric" when wearing a suit unbuttoned, I would just buy a single breasted suit. Double breasted suits tend to look ridiculous unbuttoned.

 

[ovlov]

I'm a huge fan of double breasted suits. I held of for a long time because I was worried they would not suit my size (6'2" 230lb). I think it's important to make sure that it fits you well, so I'd avoid getting one RTW if that's even possible these days. I would suggest going bespoke, or at least MTM through a reputable provider who already has your fit dialed in.

I agree with the previous poster though that DB is very hard wear unbuttoned. You could try when you get yours, and perhaps you will be able to pull it off, but don't expect that to be they way you are going to wear it on a daily basis.

I think a brown DB could look great, but bear in mind that both the colour and style are fairly uncommon these days. If you don't already have at least a couple of other suits in rotation you might be better off getting something a little more conservative.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

I’m looking to get a new suit for this F/W but am debating if I should make it my first DB.

Up until now, I’ve mostly avoided them since I’m already pretty large and don’t want to over-exaggerate it: 6’4”, 42 inch chest.

It’s also worth noting that I tend to wear tailoring relatively casually and often wear jackets unbuttoned and/or without a tie/with knitwear.

With that said, if anyone has been in a similar situations to me, got any advice?

Probably going to go for something in a cold, dark shade of brown if I go through with it. Since I’m trying to avoid flapping fabric when unbuttoned, I’m probably going to get something a bit tighter than I would with a regular SB.

Debating as well whether I should go with a 6x1 buttoning stance or a 6x2: the latter creates a deeper V which is desirable yet runs the risk of looking outdated I feel. Thoughts?

ovlov makes good points, though I think dark brown DB doesn't stand out any more than navy or gray. Sean Connery was only two inches shorter than you, with a bigger chest, and he sometimes wore 6x2. Looks good to me.

6x1 is inspired by old army uniform coats that had a keystone chest piece, rather like a breastplate.

Spoiler

So it does highlight the breadth of the chest. 6x2 lengthens the line of the coat. iGents do wear 6x1--check out Paulluxsartoria's from Chan. He even got it in Prince of Wales check to broaden things even further. 6x1 is easier on slender-chested, slender-waisted figures, though. When not, it helps when the buttons are closer together, vertically and horizontally, as here on this superb German coat from the 70s.

Spoiler

And it works better on most figures when there's a stripe or herringbone to lengthen the line.

Spoiler

6x3 is also possible, and can even work with big checks. But IMO it looks better in lighter-colored suitings; and it needs extended shoulders to maintain the basic tailoring V-shape.

Spoiler

Agree with ovlov that it's hard to get RTW DB to work well, though it can be done. Easier is from a custom maker who's already made you some well-fitting jackets. For custom, I'd start with solids or herringbones and only later work on ordering striped DBs (or checks: good luck with those).

 

[SKS]

In summary: no, don't do it. Especially if you plan to wear it unbuttoned.

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

In summary: no, don't do it. Especially if you plan to wear it unbuttoned.

Men of all sizes can look good in a well fitting DB suit. Just wearing it unbuttoned is usually not advised.