Grant Stone - Official Affiliate Thread

[Rountreesj]

I was getting ready to reply to @Rountreesj before I saw your reply. I'm not nearly as experienced with the Alexander last, but I don't feel like going down a half and up a width would reward you with a good fit. I'd do whatever Wyatt and the team suggest, but if I were going for a pair I'd wear with socks in that last, I'd bump myself to an E. Alexander feels so...tailored... for me that I struggle at the idea of any less length, which I'd have to think removes volume despite what would be added back by going to E.

Would be interested to hear from @GrantStone on this one - I'd guess it will depend very much on your particular foot - I'm pretty full volume, high-ish arches, the wide-side of D and a solid 12 Brannock.

I think it also depends on the desired fit. I prefer to have an easy entry to the loafer and can put up with a good amount of instep tightness, but not toe tightness.

I have sized down in Alden Barrie and up a width and was not happy. It doesn’t help that the Barrie last has a wide heel in a b/d and a long narrow forefoot even though it’s described and a wide last. But as I mentioned, I also have been wearing shoes about 1/2 to 1 size too small just based on what sizing up feels like.

My favorite loafers until I decided to size up were the Alden LHS, of which I’ve owned 3 pairs. One unlined CXL in 9b/d on the flex welt, one black calf in lined 9b/d, and one lined suede in 9.5b/d.

The 9.5 was the best fit in Alden Van last and after buying the 9.5 in Alden I could clearly fee how uncomfortable the 9’s were in comparison.

So I ordered the GS in the 9.5d. Initially my toes seemed to have ample room, and the heel and instep were more snug than I’d prefer once broken in. I could not slip the shoes on without a shoe horn or using a finger to slide them on. After wearing them for a bit I can walk up to them and slip right into them. The heel and instep are fine, the right foot is fine, only the left foot has some friction on the two little toes. This is why I wanted to know if the CXL and calf have any difference from the suede in lasting.

Differences that I find between the two: the older lined Alden loafers are nearly identical to GS. The Alden unlined LHS has a lower vamp and a lower heel, making entry much easier, but heel slip much worse. Once the traveler has about 5 wears, the sole softened and heel slip is mostly gone.

I also think the unlined LHS seems to simply have a wider heel, thus the reason I think I might be able to try the tassel loafer in 9e. I also am more likely to wear with socks. I’m pretty sure I could wear 9e, 9.5d and 10d all with varying levels of satisfaction.

 

[M635Guy]

Swapped the laces with the extra pair that came with my natty roo Ottawas! I really like the laces provided with my last couple of Grant Stone orders. Looking great!
View attachment 1878777

Those look really good - they pick up the welt nicely and tie everything together (no pun intended...

)

 

[M635Guy]

I think it also depends on the desired fit. I prefer to have an easy entry to the loafer and can put up with a good amount of instep tightness, but not toe tightness.

I have sized down in Alden Barrie and up a width and was not happy. It doesn’t help that the Barrie last has a wide heel in a b/d and a long narrow forefoot even though it’s described and a wide last. But as I mentioned, I also have been wearing shoes about 1/2 to 1 size too small just based on what sizing up feels like.

My favorite loafers until I decided to size up were the Alden LHS, of which I’ve owned 3 pairs. One unlined CXL in 9b/d on the flex welt, one black calf in lined 9b/d, and one lined suede in 9.5b/d.

The 9.5 was the best fit in Alden Van last and after buying the 9.5 in Alden I could clearly fee how uncomfortable the 9’s were in comparison.

So I ordered the GS in the 9.5d. Initially my toes seemed to have ample room, and the heel and instep were more snug than I’d prefer once broken in. I could not slip the shoes on without a shoe horn or using a finger to slide them on. After wearing them for a bit I can walk up to them and slip right into them. The heel and instep are fine, the right foot is fine, only the left foot has some friction on the two little toes. This is why I wanted to know if the CXL and calf have any difference from the suede in lasting.

Differences that I find between the two: the older lined Alden loafers are nearly identical to GS. The Alden unlined LHS has a lower vamp and a lower heel, making entry much easier, but heel slip much worse. Once the traveler has about 5 wears, the sole softened and heel slip is mostly gone.

I also think the unlined LHS seems to simply have a wider heel, thus the reason I think I might be able to try the tassel loafer in 9e. I also am more likely to wear with socks. I’m pretty sure I could wear 9e, 9.5d and 10d all with varying levels of satisfaction.

Very interesting. I've never owned Alden loafers - I can't tolerate heel slip, especially sockless, and everything I ever tried that didn't felt tight. I couldn't bear to spend that money and break them in only to find they were still tight.

My midnight suede pair feels slightly tighter than by Dune CXL pair. Not uncomfortable, but enough that I wouldn't consider the suede pair with socks. I haven't tried the Dune with socks, but guessing a thin pair would be fine.

 

[Rountreesj]

Very interesting. I've never owned Alden loafers - I can't tolerate heel slip, especially sockless, and everything I ever tried that didn't felt tight. I couldn't bear to spend that money and break them in only to find they were still tight.

My midnight suede pair feels slightly tighter than by Dune CXL pair. Not uncomfortable, but enough that I wouldn't consider the suede pair with socks. I haven't tried the Dune with socks, but guessing a thin pair would be fine.

This statement makes me think I should stay with the 9.5d and just start from the beginning with socks. Just so tempting to try 9e.

 

[basu13]

Damn brother - whatever you're doing to those, keep doing it

Some elbow grease and some winter sun 😎

 

[Neo1]

Very interesting. I've never owned Alden loafers - I can't tolerate heel slip, especially sockless, and everything I ever tried that didn't felt tight. I couldn't bear to spend that money and break them in only to find they were still tight.

My midnight suede pair feels slightly tighter than by Dune CXL pair. Not uncomfortable, but enough that I wouldn't consider the suede pair with socks. I haven't tried the Dune with socks, but guessing a thin pair would be fine.

Kind of interesting experience for me - I had an assistant manager at an AE store say to me years ago "you're just not cut out for loafers." Well, let's just say no one gets away with a statement like that with me lol....

I own so many loafers I think I've lost count and have tried on more than that, by a long shot. For me it totally depends on how compatible I am with the last - I tend to do the best with long & narrow, in 7D. The more it deviates the more I have to adapt.

The Alden Leydon loafers fit well in 7D. As does the AE 222 last. Those are probably my best.

The LHS I found very problematic- if I had to pick something it would be 6.5D but it wasn't great. I have two of the traveler's in 6.5D, both cxl. The instep was brutal brutal out of the box but cxl stretches a ton, and both are now good. I couldn't go 7D, they'd fall off. Not sure what 6.5E would do but historically I haven't done well with E widths. The more I hear about suede I think I'm cautiously optimistic but I am staying away from calfskin, I think the instep would kill me without the stretch.

 

[RogerKaputnik]

yea having gone with 9E, 9.5D and now 10D sizing adventure, Ican almost say 9E is almost like 10D volume wise, but not as long, and heel is wider compare to 10D.

I still like 9.5D's snug fit the most, but my mid foot is getting squeezed , and 10D is slightly long for the perfect ball alignment, but fits well everywhere else.

I like a fit that is more snug than loose too. But comfortably snug. When you say your mid-foot is getting squeezed in the 9.5D - that isn't a good thing. Tried the E width? You might need more instep volume. The Leo D certainly fits me narrower than a Barrie or Trubalance for example - I use 8.5D comfortably in both of those, but definitely require an E in the Leo.

Boot sizing has been a constant adventure for me too - I have a HTB size that is one full size larger than my Brannock size. I may try an 9E soon.

 

[Rountreesj]

Everything about a 9.5 in GS Alexander is good. Just on the left foot I could use a little more width at toes, and if anything I’d choose a tighter instep. I AM being pretty picky about a shoe I’ve worn 5 times though

 

[whipcord]

Everything about a 9.5 in GS Alexander is good. Just on the left foot I could use a little more width at toes, and if anything I’d choose a tighter instep. I AM being pretty picky about a shoe I’ve worn 5 times though

I have found that different styles and different leathers, even in the same last and model, can fit differently in the same size. The Traveler loafer in 11.5D is more comfortable on my outer toes than the Diesel in 11.5D. I think it's because of the unstructured toe of the Traveler. In the Diesel, my 2nd to last toe rubs on the structured toebox as the boot flexes when I step. It's a sensation that will never go away because that celastic piece is not like a pliable piece of leather. The issue is that I need a slightly wider footbed for my toes. The Traveler, having no celastic toe, allows my toes to gently push the leather out to conform. It's a subtle, yet massive difference.

That being said, I have interest in trying an 11E Traveler. Why? Because an 11.5D is actually half a size bigger than I need, but it's necessary in order to accommodate wide toes. I simply cannot wear an 11D in any last or leather because the footbed is too narrow for my toes. This means that the cone of the shoes I wear in 11.5D - something that is almost never talked about here when discussing fit - is a little too long. An 11E should shorten the cone to better fit the actual shape and size of my foot and keep my foot back towards the heel of the shoe, thus reducing the chance for heel slip. However, the circumference of the cone might be as big or bigger - Wyatt would know more about this - so it may somewhat mitigate the desired effect.

I share this info because I am on my own journey with GS shoes and fit, and you seem to have similar considerations.

 

[Rountreesj]

I understand exactly how you feel. I either have to go 9.5d and deal with little toe rubbing on left foot, or go with 9e and have a wee bit of heel slip.

does the tassel loafer in calf have a structured toe, or unstructured same as traveler?

 

[ProfilaBinding]

@LionsOfMen - here are a couple photos of the 8EEE, 9E and 9.5D as requested in the leo last. It's harder than I thought to get photos that don't distort the boots that aren't in the center. Also, sorry for the poor lighting, it's snowing today so took the photos in the warehouse.
View attachment 1878010 View attachment 1878011

Is that the current natural cxl? Those look beautiful.

 

[shahtirthak]

Black CXL Ottawas.

 

[GrantStone]

Thanks for the comparison. Is the footbed itself a different one for each model? Or, for example, would a 9.5d and 9.5e use the same footbed and just have more volume in the upper?

I plan to get a 9e traveler and compare it to my 9.5d traveler when I get around to it.

When grading from one width to the next, the entire last is changed including the footbed. That being said, I think customers put too much emphasis on the back part of the last when the widths are adjusted. The heel and breast area adjustment is a fraction of the instep and ball area circumference. In my opinion, heel slip shouldn't be a concern when going up a width. If someone is experiencing more heel slip when going up a width, it's more a combination of things, including the increased instep volume (which would be the reason someone is going up in width), and not the heel measurement.
For my personal fit, I don't mind heel slip and expect it based on how I size regardless of brand or last.

Depending on which models you buy and the materials, most customers cannot tell the difference between these two sizes (9e & 9.5D). Some think they can, but if you put on the shoe without them knowing the size (I did this last week), they usually cannot guess the size. That is to be expected considering the measurements are so close. I wear both 10.5E and 11D travelers interchangeably without preferring one over the other.

I understand exactly how you feel. I either have to go 9.5d and deal with little toe rubbing on left foot, or go with 9e and have a wee bit of heel slip.

does the tassel loafer in calf have a structured toe, or unstructured same as traveler?

The tassel is structured on the calf models.

Is that the current natural cxl? Those look beautiful.

These are dune diesels right off the shelf!

 

[GentlemanJeff]

Grant Stone’s great price and return/exchange policy really promotes these discussions in a way you don’t get for shoes that cost twice as much and, if you get it wrong, tough luck. Really interesting stuff.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

LWB in CXL, lovely shoes