Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Apr 7, 2011.
hehe, I will do some spinning with them to loose the fat
oh hai nick.
hope all is well with you.
wow - those shoes are amazing...
Oh, come now, I've a language barrier to cross before even reaching proper shoo terminology. I see some bubbling on rikod's pair, as if the leather would have come a bit loose after lasting. Do have a look:
Is this the area in question?
My G&G Grants rippled just a smidge here when they were new as well. Of course, after wearing a few time almost any wholecut is going to have a ripple or two in the quarters. But I agree with you that I'd rather not see it when the shoe is new.
I'm not sure why you would say that. What you are seeing in the photo (if I am seeing the same thing) is an outline of the heel stiffener. IMO, it is an indication that the stiffener was not skived (thinned) properly and/or that the midliners (if there are any) are not integrated into the structure of the shoe properly.
A whole cut might be more apt to show such discrepancies simply because there are no seams or pieces to distract the eye, but it's the same techniques and the same requirement for refinement no matter the style. And the same stresses and points of flex.
I'll certainly take your thoughts on the matter over mine. I very limited experience in this regard. I can only say that I've ever worn two pairs of whole cut shoes and both rippled a bit in the quarters with wearing. I've also heard others complain that wholecuts tend to loose their shape and ripple more readily than shoes with additional layers of leather and seaming.
Again - my knowledge is quite limited on this one.
I didn't have the time to highlight that area, but, Gdot, you're spot on with the illustration. This only bothers me because I've such great respect for G&G and even mild inconsistencies are rare on their pairs. Not really an issue as these ripples are hardly noticeable when worn, but SF is the place to be for all anal beings.
I just checked mine:
Grants (wholecut) - ripple as shown in photo above
Oakham (wholecut monk strap) - ripple as shown in photo above. although not quite as noticable
Uppingham (derby) - no ripple.
Further - just as DWFII indicated I can feel that the ripple occurs at the edge of the heal stiffener.
I little room for improvement for G&G?
It's got to be a tricky thing to pull off. And I'm guessing the super skinny waste and extreme spade shape make perfect lasting in this area of the shoe especially tricky.
Although again I'm just making guesses to generate discussion.
Why are we discussing ripples in RTW shoes?
'cuz I'm sitting 'round the house bored....................and I've apparently nothing better to do!
Must be nice.
nap time's a comin' up next!
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