Gathered shirt shoulders

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CrimsonWave, Nov 14, 2012.

Tags:
  1. CrimsonWave

    CrimsonWave Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    93
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    I came across a website of a shirtmaker recently, in which a gathered sleevehead and sleeve was discussed. This feature shows up as ripples on the sleevehead and the seam between the cuff and the sleeve. This effect is accomplished by pulling a bigger sleeve into a bigger armhole, resulting in a somewhat "puffed" shoulder/sleeve finish. Apparently this is called "Spalla con Grinze".

    [​IMG]

    Does anyone have experience with this? Also, would it make a difference if the sewing on the sleevehead/sleeve is machine stitched and not hand stitched?
     


  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    If it were done by machine, the ripples would be flatter since you couldn't as easily control where and how you fed the excess cloth into the sleevehead and where it was stitched.

    Will have some with that experience shortly.

    That looks like a reasonably good example - who's the maker?
     


  3. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    222
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Location:
    Munich, Germany


  4. CrimsonWave

    CrimsonWave Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    93
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    

    Thank you for that. Perhaps flatter ripples would mean that the puff is not too obvious, which might not be a bad thing.

    This maker is Ruben Bakker: http://www.rubenbakker.nl/besproken/fotostream/?afg0_page_id=1
     


  5. CrimsonWave

    CrimsonWave Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    93
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    I've only ever seen this done on shirts in plain fabrics. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether such a feature would be suitable for striped or checked fabrics too?
     


  6. Zarium

    Zarium Senior member

    Messages:
    276
    Likes Received:
    31
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Location:
    GMT+8
    I think this is called a shirred sleeve(head)?

    I have two T&A shirts with shirring where the sleeve meets the cuff.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012


  7. Roger Everett

    Roger Everett Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2010
    Location:
    Kissimmee, and St. Augustine,Florida
    Looks like a real PITA to iron. Though if I were to have a shirt with similar look, it would need to be on a more casual shirt ( and deffinitly a no-iron, wrinkel free ), since I generally keep my jacket on, when wearing one.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012


  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    :facepalm:

    Thankfully, shirts like that don't come in non-iron...
     


  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London


  10. Tropicalist

    Tropicalist Senior member

    Messages:
    172
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    May 1, 2012
    I don't know. Looks like a tailoring mistake to me or something too girly and blouse like. Most tailors would say they have spent years trying to make sure such mistake do no occur in their sewing.
     


  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    There's no way that looks like a mistake.

    Your other criticism might be valid.
     


  12. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

    Messages:
    5,884
    Likes Received:
    638
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Location:
    Venezia, Italy
    Quite a regular feature on Borrelli or other high end RTW too.
     


  13. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    Might you forget that you and I are approaching this topic (and appreciating this sleeve effect) with the eyes of a sartorial veteran?


    I think that the choice of whether or not the OP should use this sleeve effect turns on whether the OP is dressing for his own pleasure or for mass appeal. In the former scenario, by all means. In the latter scenario, the test would be 'What a common person would think about such a sleeve'.

    However, in all likelihood, most men (I dare not speak for women), might wonder why the wearer failed to iron his shirt (or they might well not notice it, unless it's as obvious as the sleeves in the picture)!
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2012


  14. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

    Messages:
    1,695
    Likes Received:
    4,075
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2012
    I let you be the judge...


     


  15. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Objectively speaking, the second picture (with reference to the sleeves) looks quite bad. But, opinion is subjective.

    The fit of the shirt on the body is good though on the slim side.

    Thank you for the pictures -- good to see how it looks when worn.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2012


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by