I came across a website of a shirtmaker recently, in which a gathered sleevehead and sleeve was discussed. This feature shows up as ripples on the sleevehead and the seam between the cuff and the sleeve. This effect is accomplished by pulling a bigger sleeve into a bigger armhole, resulting in a somewhat "puffed" shoulder/sleeve finish. Apparently this is called "Spalla con Grinze". Does anyone have experience with this? Also, would it make a difference if the sewing on the sleevehead/sleeve is machine stitched and not hand stitched?