French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[HighToned]

Agjiffy wait a little bit, I went to Camps de Lucas yesterday. And I took pictures of details...

Just little wait ; )

 

[Kuro]



Fantastic! Details? ^

photo from a wine store around the corner from CdL...

 

[HighToned]

There you go -> http://www.high-toned.fr/en/2014/04/details-of-camps-de-lucas-jackets/

 

[Kuro]

Awesome! I really like the houndstooth.

 

[Dandy Wonka]



Yes, I talked to Julien de Luca. They recorded this show from 6 in the morning to 10 at night... That's pretty intense ! I'm wondering how Patrick Grant manage to escape from Norton & Sons for that long. ; ) Small pic from yesterday at Camps de Luca.

Are those JDL initials a special request? I like them.

 

[Griffindork]

Great stuff HT. I really like the picture that kuro posted. The suit looks amazing. Camps and Cifo are frequently mentioned in the same breadth, but the silhouette and style of the suit in kuro's photo reminds me much more of my huntsman garments than anything I have from Cifo. But HT's blog post shows the similar DNA that the two share in the details and construction, and what French bespoke is all about in my opinion.

 

[poorsod]

HighToned, do you have a full picture of the flannel herringbone coat? A peak lapeled SB is unexpected and I was wondering how the coat looks. Thanks.

 

[Griffindork]

^Why unexpected? Not CdL, but I've seen Lorenzo wear this single breasted peak lapel quite a bit

 

[Kuro]



HighToned, do you have a full picture of the flannel herringbone coat? A peak lapeled SB is unexpected and I was wondering how the coat looks. Thanks.

photo of Charles de Luca here wearing a peak lapel suit: http://www.pointdevue.fr/elu/173/CHARLES-DE-LUCA

^Why unexpected? Not CdL, but I've seen Lorenzo wear this single breasted peak lapel quite a bit

+1 and that fabric (W.Bill IIRC) is very versatile.

 

[Griffindork]

^that CDL suit also reminds me quite a bit of huntsman. The elongated jacket, slight roping of the shoulder and cut of the trousers. Very nice in my opinion.

 

[poorsod]

My impression is that peak lapeled SBs are best with smooth finished worsted cloth. OTOH flannels like that gray microherringbone are best as DBs or 3 piece notch lapel SBs. Also peak lapels are usually made as a 1 button like that cifonelli. The CdL peak looks like a 2 or 3 button, thus unusual in several details.

 

[Griffindork]

^not the right thread for it but I think those statements might be things that only get said on styleforum. I've never heard them before but I can find quite a few pictures of Humphrey bogart looking fantastic in single breasted two button peak lapel flannel. In any event, I think part of what the French tailors do so well is sometimes make unconventional twists to classic tailoring, so maybe there is something to what you are saying.

 

[poorsod]

Cifonelli appears much more unconventional compared to CdL, let alone compared with British tailoring.

 

[Griffindork]

That seems right. I have a feeling that at the end of the day, most of what CdL and Cifo produce at the end of the day is classic business suits. I think Taub at G&H is likely just as adventurous as Cifo, although Cifo is certainly trying to be unconventional in a way that others aren't. I think the CdL safari jackets in the same spirit as many of the Cifo designs, and I think the CdL contrast stitching on the buttonholes is unlikely to appear on anything Savile Row (and would likely be thought of as tacky if it did).

 

[ThinkDerm]



Maybe not "tailoring", but the limosine briefcase by Moynat is completely made by hand and is a good example of the French style and workmanship that you see throughout this thread: attention to detail, high-quality materials, precision, and modern variations on classical forms and shapes:

splendid case