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Epaulet

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jacket looks great

what pants are those? color and fabric?

@kwhitelaw thanks! They're the standard 8oz Canvas Rivet Chinos. Figured I would show the jackets with something that's not denim.

Man that looks great

@Don L thanks dude! I'm totally in love with the Rider jacket.

Yikes, I forget about the tennis trainers for a day and now my size (Size 8) is sold out. Guess I'll have to be more diligent next time.

@KaleidoscopicK we're going to get Tennis Trainers in Brown and Cognac horse in about a month. I typically only get one or two units in size 8, so they sometimes sell immediately.

Mike @Epaulet Wow the double rider looks amazing. Can't wait till Tuesday . I will definitely order the Seal Dark brown.

@SherifEnt thank you sir! I think that this would jive really nicely with a lot of your wardrobe. It's a really ideal weight too.

I got a notification that my Southwick single cut has been delivered. I wish I could leave work early to go home and put it on.

@Michigan Planner oh cool.. post some pics if you get a chance!

Yeah, I wore a tweed sport coat (Southwick EFF "steel and sky") over a polo shirt. Tacky I know, but best way I could think of to straddle a 50 degree morning and 80 degree afternoon/evening.

Vass boots shining in the background.

@peppercorn78 not tacky at all.. I'm a huge fan of the polo & sportcoat look. I do it a lot myself.

In other news, I went overboard and just now ordered the new "Ranger" pant in the olive, khaki, and navy. At least to be a bit different I went with just one cargo pocket on the navy. I believe this will be trouser number 354 in an olive color in my closet. :lol:

@Michigan Planner thanks so much for your order.. you're gonna love the Ranger Pant! That fabric is just ideal for it. I'm getting one for myself, as the sample is a bit too small. Size 35 here I come!

Just received my EFF Tartan Charcoal Flannel Walt's and they are fantastic. I always worry with EFF's that the swatch won't make up as I imagine but these came out exactly as envisioned. Bold but still "softish" as the grey's don't overly pop or fight for attention. I have gotten such incredible feedback from a previous EFF, the POW Silver Streak, that I wanted to add to my "plaid" game. I can see myself having a lot of fun with these.

@Goodman excellent.. glad that you're so pleased with them!

Speaking of the Ranger trousers and those fabrics, I just got an MTO pair of Rudys in in the English Drill cotton fabric and holy moly... what's the word I'm looking for here... is it... BONKERS????

It's a beautiful weight, a dense twill weave with a soft surface hand. I got the khaki color and may have to go back for more, maybe in the putty color this time.

I'd been puttering around the internet looking for old school khakis and realized that this cotton drill is one of the classic fabrics for this.

No surprise that the version Mike sourced is fantastic. Rudy's make for a pretty nice classic cut for khakis too.

@FrankCowperwood thank you so much! That's a really excellent fabric, and it's been the mainstay for Ben Silver's business for years. I just got in a box of swatches, so we're going to refresh the trouser MTO selection next week.
 

AnOxymoron

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Question: why don’t you guys keep some stock of Taylor trousers? Seems like they’re pretty popular, yet my only option is to wait 4-6 weeks for an MTO pair?

These are the only trousers I can find that fit me perfectly, and sadly my last pair just blew out in the crouch. So now I’m running on one pair of trousers, and I have to wait 4-6 weeks for a new pair? Feelsbadman.
 

justinkapur

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Question: why don’t you guys keep some stock of Taylor trousers? Seems like they’re pretty popular, yet my only option is to wait 4-6 weeks for an MTO pair?

These are the only trousers I can find that fit me perfectly, and sadly my last pair just blew out in the crouch. So now I’m running on one pair of trousers, and I have to wait 4-6 weeks for a new pair? Feelsbadman.

Easy fix, order a few pairs so you have a solid rotation and arent burning through your pants as fast.
 

justinkapur

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Yeah, if only I had that kind of money. Unfortunately have other priorities.

Definitely understand that, but it ends up being much more cost effective if you order 2 pairs. Your pants will end up lasting longer which means replacing them less frequently.
 

AnOxymoron

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Yeah definitely. But still a bummer I have to wait so long for them. It’d still be nice if they had some stock on hand. Seems like they only stock Walt trousers.
 

Epaulet

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Will look forward to new swatches. Hoping the military twill and English drill can stick around.

@FrankCowperwood they'll definitely be back!!

snoop.gif


@Epaulet Mike, will there be an opportunity at some point to order a Doyle with an extra inch in body length?

@pistolero it's really difficult.. and I'll tell you why.

Here in LA, we work with separate facilities for production. After the design is finalized (the pattern) the process goes like this:

1) One company makes a "Marker." This is a sheet of paper that has all the components of the garment plotted out. Looks like a big puzzle that doesn't exactly fit. There's one marker sheet per size (one for 36, one for 38, etc)

2) This marker is sent along with the fabric to a Cutter. The Cutter pulls out the fabrics on a table, lays the marker plot on top of it, and cuts out all of the components. Each size is cut in turn.

3) The cut pieces are sent to be sewn, assembled, and finished by the Factory.

The good thing about this process is cost. It's very cost-effective to do it this way as each separate firm specializes in these services. That's why our retail prices on LA goods is so competitive.

The bad thing is flexibility. At a company like Southwick, all of this is done in one spot. So if you need a Dartmouth that's 1" longer, they build that into the marker, print it out, cut it on site, and sew it up. But it's a lot more expensive to produce there. Doing a single marker here and a single cutting would incur a lot of additional costs, as both the marker and the cutter have minimum charges.

That said, if we could somehow cut 30-40 Doyles with a longer body and sleeves.. even among a few fabrics, it could work. Sleeves can always be cuffed or hemmed. But that's probably something for down the road.

Good thing about the Doyle is that there's no hard and fast rules as to where it hits on the body. I've sold it to a lot of taller guys who would definitely need a Long sportcoat. It still looks great on them IMO.

Just got my Taylor Hertling MTOs from a couple months ago. My wife is in love with the Taylor cut, definitely a game changer in terms of silouette. Can't wait for the next EFF or MTO event that has Taylors eligible for some more interesting wool fabrics.

@wdahab excellent.. glad that you're so pleased!

Question: why don’t you guys keep some stock of Taylor trousers? Seems like they’re pretty popular, yet my only option is to wait 4-6 weeks for an MTO pair?

These are the only trousers I can find that fit me perfectly, and sadly my last pair just blew out in the crouch. So now I’m running on one pair of trousers, and I have to wait 4-6 weeks for a new pair? Feelsbadman.

@AnOxymoron thanks for asking, I'm sure a lot of guys are wondering this.

The short answer is: we cut back on stock when our brick and mortar storefronts started slowing down. Having a lot in inventory is valuable when you have in-store customers. Guys will buy 4-5 pairs at one go. Online customers aren't quite like that.. they tend to buy one or two, and it was getting increasingly hard by the middle of 2016 for us to move through our trouser inventory.

And part of that is the appeal of MTO for online customers. It's not much more expensive than stock.. usually about $25 or $30 more. Choosing your own fabric and details.. and your own inseam.. was worth the extra cost for most online guys, so that took priority. Many customers rationalized the extra cost on inseam alone, as local tailors can charge $20 or so to do hems.

Through MTO and Ends for Friends, we actually sell more Hertling trousers than we did in the heydays of stocking them, but I do worry about new customer acquisition. Many guys are nervous to do an MTO for their first pair, especially in a unique fit like the Taylor. I'll never stock it like before, but I do want to bring on periodic collections. We've got a beautiful Chestnut Flannel Taylor that's going live next week, and that's got stock in all sizes.

If you choose to do MTO, then Hertling is actually really quick these days. I say 4-6 weeks to cover ******, but they've been making stuff in about 3 lately. Same goes for Southwick.

Definitely understand that, but it ends up being much more cost effective if you order 2 pairs. Your pants will end up lasting longer which means replacing them less frequently.

@justinkapur yup, exactly correct. I would always tell customers that 2 pairs of pants will last much more than twice as long as one.
 

Waterloo 360T

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@KaleidoscopicK we're going to get Tennis Trainers in Brown and Cognac horse in about a month. I typically only get one or two units in size 8, so they sometimes sell immediately.

I have been waiting to replace a pair of Tennis Trainers that I bought in store a few years ago. Loved the color I had (no idea what the color was called). Now I'm panicked that the 8 will be gone before I can jump on them! Panicked!
 

Waterloo 360T

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And while I'm at it, is there any chance we will see the Digital Camo Rivets return? My Woodland Green (?) are on their last legs. They are without question my most complimented pant.
 

Michigan Planner

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I don't post fit pics too often because a) I am a horrible photographer, and b) I am a horrible photographer but I received my EFF (or was this last round a "Single Cut" event?) Southwick Dartmouth sportcoat arrived and it's so awesome I had to put up a rare photo.

I forget the exact name of this one but it's an Italian wool that has the look of a tweed but the feel of a cashmere. I've got a couple cashmere and camelhair blazers and this is honestly softer than any of them. It also has a very subtle chevron pattern running through it and I can see some tiny flecks of red in it as well.

This is my first attempt with the Dartmouth fit and Southwick nailed it for me right out of the box - everything fits perfectly! If I could make just one change though it would be wider lapels and a single vent in the back, but neither of those are deal breakers for me.

File Oct 05, 8 37 25 AM.jpeg
File Oct 05, 8 36 47 AM.jpeg
File Oct 05, 8 36 22 AM.jpeg


Other details: Epaulet navy hopsack trousers, Vass pebble grain split toes, O'Connell's button down oxford, Marchesi di Como tie, and a small glimpse of a Seiko Orange Monster.
 

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