Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

[jonathanS]

Does it matter if it’s Edward green or c&j?

My guess is it’s c&j. But, if it makes you feel better saying it’s Edward green, we can roll with that too

 

[jischwar]

Does it matter if it’s Edward green or c&j?

My guess is it’s c&j. But, if it makes you feel better saying it’s Edward green, we can roll with that too

Maybe he's just trying to figure out who to send it back to for a recraft?

 

[Satoman1]

Does it matter if it’s Edward green or c&j?

My guess is it’s c&j. But, if it makes you feel better saying it’s Edward green, we can roll with that too

I thrifted it, it's not my size so I'm trying to resell it. EG will definitely get a better price than C&J.
Just to confirm, I found 2 identical models from Japanese bloggers, they said it was EG made on 202 last.

 

[bengal-stripe]

Have EG ever had that little piece of leather which hides the stitch connecting the two facings? Never seen it before, even on vintage pairs, which makes me think this isn’t EG.

Yes, EG certainly used this way of adding reinforcement to the vamp point. I've just checked my shoes and I found three pairs from the mid-90s sporting that feature. I believe it was a standard of the "old Oxford".

Sometime in the mid-90s, the standard pattern for all Oxford shoes got revised, the facings got shortened, the toe caps (straight and winged) got longer and the point where the vamp line changes direction (furthest away from the eyelets) got more rounded. Also, the nailing of the heel with the nails arranged in groups of three, speaks for EG.

It is possible that that change of pattern coincides with the split-up from John Lobb; when EG (John Hlustik) moved into Cowper Street taking half the staff with him (while the other half stayed with JLP in Oliver Street.

 

[te0o]

Yes, EG certainly used this way of adding reinforcement to the vamp point. I've just checked my shoes and I found three pairs from the mid-90s sporting that feature. I believe it was a standard of the "old Oxford".

Sometime in the mid-90s, the standard pattern for all Oxford shoes got revised, the facings got shortened, the toe caps (straight and winged) got longer and the point where the vamp line changes direction (furthest away from the eyelets) got more rounded. Also, the nailing of the heel with the nails arranged in groups of three, speaks for EG.

It is possible that that change of pattern coincides with the split-up from John Lobb; when EG (John Hlustik) moved into Cowper Street taking half the staff with him (while the other half stayed with JLP in Oliver Street.

That's illuminating, thank you! It would be very interesting for all of us I'm sure if you're at all able to share any pictures of these old gems in your collection.

 

[bengal-stripe]

It would be very interesting for all of us I'm sure if you're at all able to share any pictures of these old gems in your collection.

Here you are!

EG "Malvern made for Louis Boston (Mid 90s?) on last 33 with "half-moon" detail:



Here are the differences between the "old" and the "new" Oxford pattern. Both shoes are last 202 in D fitting. But there is a difference in size: Black shoe is new pattern in (English) size 8 1/2, while the brown shoe is old pattern in size 9. Main difference is the seam which joins vamp and quarters, very rounded at the corners in the new version, more angular in the old one.



But I have realised that my previous thesis, 'old pattern uses half-moon', 'new pattern uses bar tack' doesn't work all the time. There are exceptions: a pair of EG for Paul Stuart (judging by the number is older than the Louis Bostons) has old pattern, but no half-moon, another pair, much younger with a 39k production number, has the new pattern but the half moon.

 

[bespoken pa]

@bengal-stripe

I sincerely appreciate the depth of your response. I stand corrected.

 

[jellyroller]

I see that Maison Degand Brussels suddenly has removed all Edward Green from its website. Anyone know anything about this?

 

[ForwardPleats]

I see that Maison Degand Brussels suddenly has removed all Edward Green from its website. Anyone know anything about this?

I emailed them because I had my eye on that last pair of Winchelsea in my size, I was just waiting to confirm fit with the RLPL Barksdale from EBay before pulling the trigger. I haven't heard back yet.

 

[jellyroller]

I emailed them because I had my eye on that last pair of Winchelsea in my size, I was just waiting to confirm fit with the RLPL Barksdale from EBay before pulling the trigger. I haven't heard back yet.

I'll be curious to know what you hear. I had my eye on a pair of Shanklins.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

I see that Maison Degand Brussels suddenly has removed all Edward Green from its website. Anyone know anything about this?

Yeah I checked them out yesterday and noticed the same thing. Also no more John Lobb. Guess they decided non-UK shoemakers like Norman Vilalta (except for GG) would be better choices.

 

[mdubs]

Monday. Edward Green Bourbon Shell and Chestnut Utah Galways.

-Mike

 

[jellyroller]

Monday. Edward Green Bourbon Shell and Chestnut Utah Galways.

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-Mike

The Mayor of Aldensville, our guest dignitary in the EG thread! 😮

 

[ForwardPleats]

Am strongly considering ordering an MTO pair of Dark Oak Winchelseas as a Birthday present to myself.

If one has to go MTO to get the style and width one wants anyways, what are folks' thoughts on split sized pairs? My feet are shaped extremely similarly, but are a half size difference. I find I always have to sacrifice the fit of one shoe for the other. Especially for loafers and other slip-ons, which I find tongue pads and other additions always inevitable.

If there is no price difference or a minimal one, would not make best sense to get a split sized pair to ensure the best fit for both feet? Isn't it the same principle that bespoke makers follow?

 

[mrs25962]

Am strongly considering ordering an MTO pair of Dark Oak Winchelseas as a Birthday present to myself.

If one has to go MTO to get the style and width one wants anyways, what are folks' thoughts on split sized pairs? My feet are shaped extremely similarly, but are a half size difference. I find I always have to sacrifice the fit of one shoe for the other. Especially for loafers and other slip-ons, which I find tongue pads and other additions always inevitable.

If there is no price difference or a minimal one, would not make best sense to get a split sized pair to ensure the best fit for both feet? Isn't it the same principle that bespoke makers follow?

Sounds good in theory and I'd probably do it if I tried different sizes / widths and was sure which fits each foot the best. I believe with MTO, that EG can also make adjustments such as adding a fitting piece to give more room in certain areas if needed and also raising arch support which may reduce gaping on the sides that results from flat feet.