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nishant

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This week in EG ...

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BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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You' ve a quite a few split toes from different brands. Which maker you like the best? I have seen on the carmina thread that you have at least 2-3 split toes Carminas, 1CJ and now EG.

Whilst you did not ask me, I have several SpTDs across different brands as well. StC (2), SoH, Buday, Rosznayi, and of course EG (3 used to be 4).

Dover, to me, represents the perfect balance from the tip to the counters. Apron is the perfect size. The silhouette is both refined and urban. Probably the most versatile shoe out there. Which is why I always say the Dover is the absolute best (aesthetically speaking) RTW SpTD out there.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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In case any are wondering where I would have placed those other SpTDs (and if you are not I do no care I will tell you regardless ?).

Best Value (as it pertains wholly to Price, silhouette, leather quality, & construction)... Sons of Henrey.

Best value overall (regardless of price but consisting largely of construction, leather quality, and versatility of the style).. Saint Crispin's.
 

Neville Southall

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You' ve a quite a few split toes from different brands. Which maker you like the best? I have seen on the carmina thread that you have at least 2-3 split toes Carminas, 1CJ and now EG.

Hello. My name is George Red and I am a split-toe-aholic. I cant, in good faith, compare the Dover to anything Carmina makes. Totally different ball park of quality. These Dovers, although new, are my favorite. I’ll also say that Carmina, for the price, makes one HELL of a NST, especially their NST ankle boot (If you get it in cordovan, you’ll have a hard time taking them off).
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Hello. My name is George Red and I am a split-toe-aholic. I cant, in good faith, compare the Dover to anything Carmina makes. Totally different ball park of quality. These Dovers, although new, are my favorite. I’ll also say that Carmina, for the price, makes one HELL of a NST, especially their NST ankle boot (If you get it in cordovan, you’ll have a hard time taking them off).

My biggest aggravation (minor as it is) with the Carmina NST is the rather prominent apron stitching. I feel it protrudes a bit too much for my liking. Having said that, I do like the "look" on an ankle boot.
 

Neville Southall

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My biggest aggravation (minor as it is) with the Carmina NST is the rather prominent apron stitching. I feel it protrudes a bit too much for my liking. Having said that, I do like the "look" on an ankle boot.

Keep in mind that Carmina makes two different types of apron stitching. One is much more subtle than the other. Which one are you referring to?
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Carmina also offers an alonquin split toe model similar to the Dover


I am happy you brought up the Alonquin because it exhibits the same points which deter me from purchasing it. I can illustrate the point I was attempting to make concerning the balance of the various shoes (Dover, Carmina, and Sons of Henrey). This will also help others visualize the comments I made.

20200223_171819.png


Looking at the picture above (No. 1), the facings in my opinion are too short (outlined in white). The rest of the apron (red marking) is longer in relation to said facings. The seams on the apron, as mentioned previously, protrude a bit too much for my liking.

20200223_172043.png


Looking at the picture above (No. 2), you have a pie crust apron. Which in of itself is not a negative (frankly I love a pie crust stitch), however you have two competing shoes within the same makeup. It appears Carmina wanted to make an Oxford (the seams on the counters and under the facings shown in blue markings), but changed their minds and threw on the Norwegian split to make it a SpTD. This one though is slightly more balanced (apron in relation to facings).

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Now notice the Dover. The apron and facings are almost equi-distant from each other. The handsewn apron flows seamlessly with the seams on the counter. No competing stylings. A clean silhouette which looks handsome, but not delicate. This is obviously a well conceived design.

The next most balanced SpTD I have seen is the George by Sons of Henrey (pictured below). An amazing value given its balanced design, price, and leather (the same you would find on the Ebony Utah Dover).

SoH NST.PNG
 
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circumspice

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View attachment 1342945

Now notice the Dover. The apron and facings are almost equi-distant from each other. The handsewn apron flows seamlessly with the seams on the counter. No competing stylings. A clean silhouette which looks handsome, but not delicate. This is obviously a well conceived design.

The Dover absolutely has competing styles - the heel counter has double stitching while nowhere else does.
 

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