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circumspice

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View attachment 1342945

Now notice the Dover. The apron and facings are almost equi-distant from each other. The handsewn apron flows seamlessly with the seams on the counter. No competing stylings. A clean silhouette which looks handsome, but not delicate. This is obviously a well conceived design.
The Dover absolutely has competing styles - the heel counter has double stitching while nowhere else does.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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The Dover absolutely has competing styles - the heel counter has double stitching while nowhere else does.
I would disagree that it is a competing style because the counter's stitching is supposed to replicate a standard apron seam. Of course, it does not from an overhead prospective, because of that crust stitching on the apron.
From a side profile (where presumably would be your point of view as the person looking at another person's shoes) it does. Allow me to demonstrate.

EG could have used the traditional machine stitched apron where it would have a seam accompanied by a dbl stitch on either end, like the counter. Essentially something similar to what both Carmina did in my picture No. 1 & the SoH SpTD (although theirs is a truncated counter seam).

It could work. For all intensive purposes, it does work based on the Carmina and SoH. Remember, I take umbridge with Carmina due to balancing issues not design issues on that particular SpTD. Although, I must admit I feel like the apron seams protrude too much but that's personal preference.

What EG decided on doing was to take a handsewn apron approach probably to demonstrate that someone took the time to sew those apron's on. A nice touch especially considering the price paid (it is the least they could do).

More importantly when seen from the viewers perspective, the counter seam and apron look similar, as I mentioned previously. Here you can see the counter with a "center" protruding seam. The adjacent dbl seams accentuate it the center. From the side profile (your line of view), you can see the apron's protruding seam. Which is what the counter looks like.

Additionally, imagine if you drew a line from the end of the apron continuing through the counter it would look like a seamless line. However, it is not necessary because it results in a cleaner more minimalist shoe. Resulting in a very elegant shoe overall
20200224_013516.jpg


On the handsewn apron'd Carmina. They could have eliminated the seams under the facings (which are superfluous), and opened up the truncated seam (on the counter) and it would have worked. As is, looks like an amalgamated shoe from the perspective of the admirer of the shoe.

You can then make the argument that from an overhead perspective the upper does not match the counter. I would argue, "what the heck are you doing standing on top of the guys shoes for!" 😎
 

circumspice

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That is a lot of noise to explain away what is obviously discordant - the stitching around the facings is single,but double on the heel counter.

Here is G&G being consistent. The careful observer will also note the lack of stitching fuckup on the bottom of the facings, where the stitching isn't parallel as it approaches the apron

 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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That is a lot of noise to explain away what is obviously discordant - the stitching around the facings is single,but double on the heel counter.

Here is G&G being consistent. The careful observer will also note the lack of stitching fuckup on the bottom of the facings, where the stitching isn't parallel as it approaches the apron

As mentioned, the dbl stitch works to accentuate that seam on the counter. With a single stitch, I do not believe you would have had the same effect. I also prefer the 5 eyelet vs 4 eyelet design.

Those GGs are beautiful shoes no doubt, but a bit too refined for my tastes. My personal feeling is this level of refinement limits the premise of a SpTD with casual pieces. This is where the Dover shines. Elegance without pretensions.

Again while the GG is beautiful, too smart for their own good. Then again, that's why you have choices in the market. Different foods for different palettes.
 
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bespoken pa

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For me the dover is perfection personified. I take a different approach when describing my affinity, I just know it when I see it.


I think what would I do to improve upon the dover and the answer is nothing.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Thanks to @circumspice and @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for this discussion. There are points here that I had never even considered. Appreciate the opportunity to learn about what differentiates the split-toes.
Glad to be of some assistance. I definitely love split toes. And as you can see, there are a multitude of different options across different brands expressing their own interpretation of the SpTD.

Whatever calls to you is ultimately the one you purchase. A contested topic to be sure, but no wrong choices here... just better ones 😉.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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For me the dover is perfection personified. I take a different approach when describing my affinity, I just know it when I see it.


I think what would I do to improve upon the dover and the answer is nothing.
No argument there good man.

Does anybody here have a pair of Dovers (or any other EGs) in nutmeg suede? This suede looks phenomenal.
Only boring Mink suede for me, but I agree those definitely are an eye grabber.
 
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jischwar

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Does anybody here have a pair of Dovers (or any other EGs) in nutmeg suede? This suede looks phenomenal.
This nutmeg looks pretty close to my tobacco suede Cadogan's. I find it an extremely versatile color.
 

George Red

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This nutmeg looks pretty close to my tobacco suede Cadogan's. I find it an extremely versatile color.
It looks much softer than tobacco suede, which is what draws me to it. Looks very similar to C&J's camel suede.
 

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