Does Bespoke Really Bring real benefit for my proportionate figure?

[Wes Bourne]



Could use a new grey flannel, not too dark, not too light.

I have the light grey from that stack of cloth of the H&S goods. It's cut but not made up yet.

This is gonna be awesome.

 

[Despos]

I have the same cloth he has, it's cut for me not for Jeffery. Making a suit for myself doesn't belong in this thread as I do not have a proportionate figure.

 

[Wes Bourne]

Oh I didn't mean the cloth you've already cut up for yourself, but the suits you and jefferyd will each make for the other, provided he goes along with this...

 

[Dempsy444]

It's been a while but I wanted to close the loop on this thread that I started. I had asked if I was better off with bespoke or a high end ready to wear garment
Like Kiton given my proportionate figure. At the time I was waiting for a bespoke suit from Huntsman to be completed and was considering commissioning another suit somewhere else and wasn't sure I wanted to go through the legnthy process of bespoke again. To answer GBR , the Huntsman suit came back significantly off and now requires a lot of rework and, while i trust Huntsman will see it through, it has to date been a disappointing experience.

The good news though is MLongano suggested I try Chris Despos in Chicago. I took his recommendation seriously and after reading such good things about Chris I met with him in Chicago. I could tell from the get go I liked him and decided to commission a suit. He's a real joy to work with. The suit came out excellent, and I was pretty confident it would based on how well the fittings were going. I think it makes abundantly clear bespoke when done right is far superior for even a person with a fairly proportionate figure like mine.

There are a few elements about Chris's suit that resonated with me.. He makes a very special shoulder. It is very comfortable and stays perfectly fitted even as you move your arms, never breaking. The shoulder fits so well in a 3 dimensional way that it makes clear that the suit could only be made for you. This trait has been written about by others far more knowledgeable than I so I'll just confirm that It is a very nice shoulder.

Another element is that the suit is light and comfortable yet has structure. It has very graceful shaping

He also makes a nice pair of pants that have the effect of thinning you in the waist.

Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Blackhood]

^ That may be the most valuable information on the website. So many people ask for advice, and we almost never hear whether it turned out well of badly. This kind of follow-up shows real community spirit and is highly valued by those trying to get answers to questions they have.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

So based on the experience, does it seem that having the bespoke tailor closer to home is key to good bespoke? I can't imagine how a Savile Row tailor can disappoint, unless the distance made it near impossible to get multiple fitting.

I ask because you hear a lot of good and bad bespoke stories. It would be valuable to nail down the most important variables to picking a bespoke tailor.

 

[Kyle is raaddd]



^ That may be the most valuable information on the website. So many people ask for advice, and we almost never hear whether it turned out well of badly. This kind of follow-up shows real community spirit and is highly valued by those trying to get answers to questions they have.

Agreed. I mostly lurk here, but I had to comment, this thread was definitely a great read.

 

[Dempsy444]



So based on the experience, does it seem that having the bespoke tailor closer to home is key to good bespoke? I can't imagine how a Savile Row tailor can disappoint, unless the distance made it near impossible to get multiple fitting.
I ask because you hear a lot of good and bad bespoke stories. It would be valuable to nail down the most important variables to picking a bespoke tailor.

If by "close to home" you mean around your city, I would say it helps the bespoke process to have your tailor closer but it's worth dealing with some distance if you find a really good tailor who you trust and know will do their best work for you. I was open to working with Despos because I knew I travelled to Chicago frequently, he had such a reputation, and there isnt a comparable tailor in San Francisco. The distance didn't have a negative effect, the whole thing was smooth. But I didn't rush him and he didn't rush me. We just let the bespoke process play out naturally.

In the case of Savile Row USA visits, a couple problems occur despite the reputations of the firms. One is the distance is a bit too far and the time between fittings can be 6 months. I do wonder if this blunts some of the intangible aspects of the cutter's process as he may lose his feel for you with such long lapses. The bigger risk though is impatience. I believe there is a real incentive by major houses on the Row to get the suit done in fewer fittings when there is six months between each fitting. Some firms skip the baste fitting (A&S) or ship a suit after just 2 fittings believing they can accurately make any changes you ask for in the second fitting. It's said by some that a great tailor can make a suit in 2 or fewer fittings anyway, but for a person's first suit and one that is separated by a lot of time this seems foolish. I would strongly advise any Americans commissioning a suit from a traveling SR tailor to insist on a baste fitting and at least three fittings. It will take longer to get your suit but your better off having it done right. Be patient and be willing to wait 4 or 5 fittings if that is what it takes.

And here is the rub on SR. While the Row has great talent it's also a business. The large Houses have an incentive to close your order out and that incentive is greater than the one to fuss over the details of your suit like we imagine a master tailor would. It's up to you to make them fuss.

The Row deals with a lot of newbie customers who have a hard time articulating what the want. my limited experience and the conversations I have had with others suggests they have no problem rolling a customer like that. I would only commission a suit from the Row after you have a lot of experience and can be firm and clear about what you Expect and want.

We have some great tailors in the US though like Despos and Logsdail to just name a couple.
I would be inclined to just stay here and avoid the FX premium.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

This is a sad story for me. It would seem that the endearing stories of Savile Row tradition might be slowly fading. It is a shame that one now needs to arm themselves with a good amount of sartorial knowledge to make sure they are not mislead, or forgotten. So the bespoke dream is more like a perilous journey, with rewards being given to those that travel through the pitfalls.

 

[Dempsy444]

I hate to smear the Row. That is not my purpose. I have had only one Row suit made, so I only know so much. But if you talk to people who have used the big names on the Row, you will hear a simiar storyline more often then you would expect. . Having said that, there are plenty of great Row tailors and tailors in the area who probably do insist that everything be just right before it goes out the door. But that is because the tailor is that way, not because he is on the Row. The lesson for me is to spend your energy seeking out the tailor you trust will do his best work for you and nothing less. That person exists in London but also in the US.


Gauge the tailors talent and devotion. Don't get hung up on prestige and historical romance of his address.

 

[cbbuff]

Outstanding thread Dempsey. Thank you for following up and sharing your experience and thoughts.

 

[Elegantly Wasted]

What happened to the "Affiliate Vendor" who was making big claims about English tailors and French food? He just vanished after Mr. Despos presented his own credentials as requested.

 

[comrade]



We all like bespoke. I'm having a suit made now from SR, and am looking to get another suit. I've begun to question whether bespoke is the right way to go for someone like me since I have a fairly proportionate figure. With bespoke, you always take a risk that the tailor may be off and the workmanship may not be as fine as a good italian hand made suit like Kiton. By my math, i can get a made to order Kiton or Brioni for roughly the same price as a SR bespoke. But with Kiton or Brioni, I know what I am getting and it is well made. With SR, I have to wait for quite some time and I'm not sure what I am going to get. There is a bit of trade off with bespoke promising the better fit. But really, for a figure like mine, will it?
I'm 6'1 205 lbs. I have a 7 inch drop with a 45 inch chest. No real sloping shoulder or any other issue according to my tailor.
any thoughts on this?

This is not a reasonable comparison. Kiton and Brioni are Italian in design and "personality", SR is British in design and personality.
A more valid comparison is to judge Kiton and or Brioni against Caraceni, Rubinacci, Solito, etc., bespoke. Then you're looking at "apples to apples"

 

[Dempsy444]



This is not a reasonable comparison. Kiton and Brioni are Italian in design and "personality", SR is British in design and personality.
A more valid comparison is to judge Kiton and or Brioni against Caraceni, Rubinacci, Solito, etc., bespoke. Then you're looking at "apples to apples"

I agree. The purpose was never to compare Italian and English. Just bespoke and RTW. The thread rifted into a discussion of Savile Row and a tailor closer to home. I never pursued the RTW option and am glad I didn't.

 

[jamesny]

If you have a reputable bespoke tailor you really trust and have been impressed with their work, I say stick to them. In this case, bespoke really enhances your best features.