Does Bespoke Really Bring real benefit for my proportionate figure?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Dempsy444, Aug 20, 2011.

  1. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    We all like bespoke. I'm having a suit made now from SR, and am looking to get another suit. I've begun to question whether bespoke is the right way to go for someone like me since I have a fairly proportionate figure. With bespoke, you always take a risk that the tailor may be off and the workmanship may not be as fine as a good italian hand made suit like Kiton. By my math, i can get a made to order Kiton or Brioni for roughly the same price as a SR bespoke. But with Kiton or Brioni, I know what I am getting and it is well made. With SR, I have to wait for quite some time and I'm not sure what I am going to get. There is a bit of trade off with bespoke promising the better fit. But really, for a figure like mine, will it?

    I'm 6'1 205 lbs. I have a 7 inch drop with a 45 inch chest. No real sloping shoulder or any other issue according to my tailor.

    any thoughts on this?
     


  2. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    Wait until your bespoke suit is completed and then ask the same question again perhaps?
     


  3. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    That is sensible advice. Unfortunately, I don't have time to wait since it won't be done until early next year (commissioning it from the US which drags the process out) and I am looking for a new suit for my wedding in May.
     


  4. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    why don't you go ahead and get yourself a Kiton.

    Next year when you have your SR suit, then make a comparison and post a review here.
     


  5. Dairy Phobic

    Dairy Phobic Senior member

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    38 inch waist isn't really proportionate to 6'1"
     


  6. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    ive had the opportunity to try out kiton/brioni/attolini/tom ford/isaia and one of my friends oxxford suits for RTW, and for bespoke NSM and steed. i have to say that even though rtw fits me perfectly with just the waist taken in a bit my favorite suit the one from steed. Feeling wise they are just on a completely different level. If you have the money to spare try one of the firms from saville row you wont be disappointed. I can only really recommend Edwin Debois from steed as he is the only one ive had the pleasure of commissioning a suit from. TBH though if you have an athletic frame try out Tom Ford. I got a hand me down from a friend of mine and i just keep finding myself reaching for it every time i have to dress up.
     


  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I think your missing several points though which you may or may not care about:

    1. Your Savile row suit is unique to you and i always think the process and the prestige of that counts for something.

    2. You will probably find that even though your figure is good your movement in the suit will be better and it will feel more comfortable. I am doing basted fittings for a client now who is really into his clothes, he's a German fellow who used flew to fly to Naples to get his bespoke suits made before coming to me in NYC. He started off on MTM but now we are doing Bespoke for him. At his try on he commented that it felt so comfortable that it was like wearing a sweater.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    3. At the end of the day (and too right Im biased) English tailoring is still the best in the world. The English are the originators, when its done well its the best. I think English tailoring at a high level is like French cuisine its the finest in the world.

    4. English tailoring is maybe more rough round the edges in some ways but I think this is part of the charm, its also a different more robust look. Its like talking about English shoes with thicker soles vs the Italian shoes. Those Italian shoes are more dainty but they last a season. A savile row suit can be expected to last a very, very long time, if your making it out of a heavy cloth perhaps a lifetime.

    5. If you like Kiton fabrics and the luxury look, get your Savile row tailor to break out the Dormeuil and Loro piana books.

    I can see though the appeal of getting something right away or quickly. In fact my highest spending client at Richard James (who bought everything in the store twice every season) always bought OTR or MTM because he didn't have the patience for Bespoke.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2011


  8. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

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    Since you're from the United States why not give Chris Despos a try?

    Less traveling (Chicago/Dallas versus London), and probably every bit as good if not better than SR.
     


  9. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    What makes you think he's as good if not better than a Savile Row tailor? I don't want to get into a bitch fest just interested, I don't know much about Chris.
     


  10. MrFarnon

    MrFarnon Member

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    Nick Lopez in Houston is supposed to be pretty good as well, if you are in Dallas.
     


  11. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

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    My statement was based on Despos' reputation, as well as research such as can be found at the link below. I hope someday to commission a Despos garment.

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2011/02/despos.html
     


  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Since you are on a very tight schedule, its better communicate well with your tailor or just fly across the atlantic to speed up things.
     


  13. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    When the SR garment is delivered the question will be answered. Kiton and Brioni are shite beside it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2011


  14. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Very interesting. Would love to send something in but I guess the garments are toast after the dissection. I'll send something in if there's a kill, but I rather try to avoid these!
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2011


  15. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Fit is so individual that you won't really know until you try both. Fit varies from firm to firm (could even vary with different cutters in the same firm).

    I think reasons for trying bespoke also include curiosity and wanting to try the experience.
     


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