Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[klank74]

Based on this, it sounds like you know your way around a Brannock Device. My humble suggestions for a first build would be as follows:

1) Go to a good, reputable local shoe store - get the most experienced salesperson to measure you on the Brannock. Take pictures. Get someone else to do the full foot tracings and measurements!

2) Send a set to Kyle and to White's for dual opinions. First ask which last is best for your foot shape - ignoring for a minute length and width. Then ask what size they would recommend in that last. If the two are close, go with the larger size. If they are not close, go with Kyle's recommendation. Do not throw common sense out the window. If your Brannock is 13EE, don't let anyone tell you you need a 10.5C for example.

3) Brown Dress is a perfect leather for your first build... it is the most versatile leather White's offers, and is a classic... even if you have 20 pairs some day, you will always have room for brown dress.

4) On a boot your size, go with the double midsole and a commando sole if you want the uninterrupted heel stack, or a 430 or 700 or 269 if you don't care. Although I am a fan of double leather, don't try to get too fancy on your first build... stick to the tried and true... there is a reason the classics are classics.

5) Most of all, keep it simple for your first build...if you decide you like them, there will be many more to come... trust me.

1) sadly, I had to train myself how to use a brannock because I couldn't find anyone locally that knew how to do it. I have to drive pretty far to find a boot shop that knows what theyre doing.
2)Thats my game plan. I've tried for so long to find something that fits me that I'm willing to let someone else that knows what they're doing make the call
3)The more I've talked to you guys one here, the more I've come to my senses. I'm definitely going to go with the brown dress. I have been giving some thought to going with lace to toe though. I've seen some pics of that same type of build on the swing last and thought it looked killer. However, I've also been brainstorming and wondering if they would do the MP-M1 pattern on a swing last. I love the look of that one piece counter and back stay.
4)In the case of the commando sole, I would want to order a single midsole with it because the commando comes with a leather midsole as part of it, correct? I thought I remembered seeing a post on here way back that said a double midsole, as well as the commando was to thick for their machines to sew through? If I went with something other than the commando or composition, it would probably be the 269. I've heard, maybe even from you, that it does half decent on ice and rainy surfaces. I also like that the rear section of it is pretty thin through the heel stack.
5)I'm well aware of what a slippery slope boots can be. I've gone through numerous pairs of red wings and thorogoods over the years. Didn't really need them all, but I "had to have them." I more of a t shirt and jeans kinda guy, I'm not real into the fashion end of things. I just appreciate a good looking, quality leather boot, the patina they develope over the years, and the story it tells. The craziest I'll get with a build is probably rough out bottoms with a smooth finish vamp I hope the whites addiction doesn't get to bad...I also just started a journey into the world of cast iron cookware. Thats a whole other rabbit hole!

 

[ZenSilk]

A few! Nothing worth updating about though. Switched positions at my job, so I've been busy as hell and have not even gone to the grocery store!

It's pretty much been slip-on Vans for weeks

 

[miggyramone]

Someone posted this on reddit. Thought it was kinda cool.

https://translate.google.com/transl...w.stumptownjapan.com/mr-bootsman/&prev=search

[/URL]

 

[ThreeLions]

4)In the case of the commando sole, I would want to order a single midsole with it because the commando comes with a leather midsole as part of it, correct? I thought I remembered seeing a post on here way back that said a double midsole, as well as the commando was to thick for their machines to sew through?

I think you might have mis-read something. To the best of my knowledge, the double midsole can become difficult/impossible to sew if you then want to add the full Vibram 100 lug sole.

However, a double mid sole with the commando half lug sole (some at White's refer to this as a triple sole) can be done. Here's a picture of mine:

If you are a big guy and ordering very large boots this is probably a good idea. If you have small feet, this would probably look a but clunky. For reference, mine above are 12C on the 55 last.

 

[ThreeLions]

Someone posted this on reddit. Thought it was kinda cool.

https://translate.google.com/transl...w.stumptownjapan.com/mr-bootsman/&prev=search

[/URL]

Miggy,

Your link above is not working. I looked into it and you have the "[U R L]" tag in the wrong place.


For anyone else trying to access the link. Click on it, and then edit the address in your browser. Take out the "[U R L]" that is midway through the line and then the page opens.

 

[discomute]

Mr. Bootsman | STUMPTOWN BOOTS ＆ RECRAFTING

STUMPTOWN BOOTS&RECRAFTINGが推薦する著名人に出演頂くブーツ好きのブーツ好きによるブーツ好きのためのライフスタイルコンテンツ。

translate.google.com

^ here

 

[Patek]

I think you might have mis-read something. To the best of my knowledge, the double midsole can become difficult/impossible to sew if you then want to add the full Vibram 100 lug sole.

However, a double mid sole with the commando half lug sole (some at White's refer to this as a triple sole) can be done. Here's a picture of mine:

If you are a big guy and ordering very large boots this is probably a good idea. If you have small feet, this would probably look a but clunky. For reference, mine above are 12C on the 55 last.

My wife is short, she already hates it when I wear regular BH as I am 6'1" without "heels".

 

[miggyramone]

Miggy,

Your link above is not working. I looked into it and you have the "[U R L]" tag in the wrong place.


For anyone else trying to access the link. Click on it, and then edit the address in your browser. Take out the "[U R L]" that is midway through the line and then the page opens.

My bad. I was trying to link the google translate version of this interview:

Mr. Bootsman | STUMPTOWN BOOTS ＆ RECRAFTING

STUMPTOWN BOOTS&RECRAFTINGが推薦する著名人に出演頂くブーツ好きのブーツ好きによるブーツ好きのためのライフスタイルコンテンツ。

www.stumptownjapan.com

 

[klank74]

I think you might have mis-read something. To the best of my knowledge, the double midsole can become difficult/impossible to sew if you then want to add the full Vibram 100 lug sole.

However, a double mid sole with the commando half lug sole (some at White's refer to this as a triple sole) can be done. Here's a picture of mine:

If you are a big guy and ordering very large boots this is probably a good idea. If you have small feet, this would probably look a but clunky. For reference, mine above are 12C on the 55 last.

How is flexibility with that set up? I might try that on the boots I'm preparing to order. I'm definitely considering a double midsole for my work boots I plan have built later on down the road, but I will most likely go with the honey vibram sole on those. Flexibility will be more important with those as I will be working on my knees frequently and usually have my toes bent against the floor to avoid wearing through the leather on the toes or damaging the welt. I'm going to email Kyle tomorrow about getting sized, but I'm guess I'll wind up sized somewhere between a 13 or 14.

 

[PACostag]

interesting comparison

Reddit - Dive into anything

www.reddit.com

 

[discomute]

Any of the half soles look great with double midsoles. Okay I haven't seen them on tiny feet but at size 10 I wouldn't hesitate.

Anything can be broken in eventually*

* So I theorise

 

[Erikdayo]

interesting comparison

Reddit - Dive into anything

www.reddit.com

Those don't look like MP/Barrie last Main Streets though. The guy says he got them from eBay before the CXL version was released. Kind of seems like a sample from different lasts they may have been trying.

 

[ThreeLions]

How is flexibility with that set up? I might try that on the boots I'm preparing to order. I'm definitely considering a double midsole for my work boots I plan have built later on down the road, but I will most likely go with the honey vibram sole on those. Flexibility will be more important with those as I will be working on my knees frequently and usually have my toes bent against the floor to avoid wearing through the leather on the toes or damaging the welt. I'm going to email Kyle tomorrow about getting sized, but I'm guess I'll wind up sized somewhere between a 13 or 14.

I don't think that this (the triple sole) would be a good option for kneeling down with your toes bent. Celastic toes and toe caps also make this worse. This is a pretty thick sole. It does however, give a big heavy guy plenty of support for walking and standing.

For work boots, I went with distressed rough-out, single midsole, unstructured toe, and the honey vibram soles. That has plenty of flex to do what you mentioned.

 

[ThreeLions]

My wife is short, she already hates it when I wear regular BH as I am 6'1" without "heels".

Haha. You'll have to get her a pair of these:

 

[Phalanx]

I've been reading through this thread and researching for probably the past 2 years and I've finally decided to join and make my first post.
Its been 5 long years, but I finally have enough money set aside to order my first pair of whites. But as usual, I have some questions. I apologize ahead of time if this gets a bit long winded.
I plan on ordering through Bakers. I've never had a pair of boots that truly "fit" me, and I'm hoping Kyle can help me get the sizing figured out. I'm thinking the swing last is going to be the one for me, but I'll let him make that call. Heel to toe, I measure a 13, but my arch measurement is 14.5 A/B (I have short toes). However, I have a low instep. I also think i might have "duck" feet. If I get a boot to fit good around the ball of my foot, then my instep and heel move around. If it fits my instep and heel good, then its to tight around the ball of my foot. I usually try to go with what fits the ball of my foot, but then I've only got about a fingers width between the both sides of the vamp till i get the laces pulled tight enough.

Another guy with clown feet Definitely consider the option for having a combo last (which is what I got). I similarly have duck feet and ended up going with a 13 D/E (E in the toes, D for the rest). It cost an extra $50 and I'm so glad I did. Heck, they can probably use my last if you also go with 13 D/E.

Anyways, my first set of questions centered around dealing with Kyle and Bakers, and the fitting process. How do I go about getting a fitment sheet so I can send tracings and measurements into them? Am I better off emailing Kyle or calling?

The first thing to do is to send a physical fitting sheet to Bakers. I didn't even print the thing off; I just got my girlfriend to sketch my feet on some paper and sent it in along with dimensions that I measured using some measuring tape. Baker should take care of the rest.

I also wanted to get your thoughts on the build I was thinking off. For almost the whole 5 years I've been saving up for some Whites, I've had my heart set on some smokejumpers or bounty hunters (not sure what you would order if you need the swing last) in brown dress. I love the way that leather ages with the lighter core showing through. But recently, I've also been considering the semi dress. I really like the look of them with internal heel counter. I think i would go with a toe cap either way. I'm thinking of going with the composition half sole or the other half sole whose name escapes me right now. I really like the look of an unbroken heel stack. Anyways, whether I went smoke jumper, or semi dress, I was dead set on brown dress, but then I saw the waxed flesh, and I really liked the cinnamon and olive wf. I really liked the olive, but then I found pictures of it online with some wear on it, and i'm not really all that crazy about the lighter shade of green that shows when it gets roughed up. So I'm thinking I'd go with the cinnamon if I go wf.

I think if you're getting analysis paralysis regarding which leather to get, it's best to consider what you'll be wearing the boots for primarily. If they'll be every day work/yard/office wear then maybe consider a leather which is more understated (brown dress, brown CXL, black, etc); I personally think something like olive is a little more loud and won't make a good first pair but I'm sure people will disagree with me. You can also request the toe cap that the MP boots have on the semi-dress and bounty hunter boots (which is what I did; the quad-stitch is very flattering imho).

Then to make matters even worse, I had a thought to myself today, I wonder if I could get the MP-M1 built on the swing last? I really like the look of the heel counter on those.

I know that you can definitely get the MP made on a combo last (that'll probably be my next boot) but no idea about swing last.

I guess what I should be asking is, what do you guys think would be a good first build for a casual boot? I'm sure there will be other builds down the road.

Again, I think you should consider options which will be more understated so you don't end up looking like Ronald McDonald.

I think the final thing to consider (especially since you have big feet) is the weight of the boot. My 6 inch bounty hunters weigh over 1 kg each (>2.2 lbs) and that's with a single sole + rubber sole. It's easy to want to get colossal 10 inch triple mid sole boots with thick leathers but you might be put off when it feels like you're wearing concrete blocks on your feet. Again, people may disagree with that including yourself but I think it's worth considering.

I think you might have mis-read something. To the best of my knowledge, the double midsole can become difficult/impossible to sew if you then want to add the full Vibram 100 lug sole.

However, a double mid sole with the commando half lug sole (some at White's refer to this as a triple sole) can be done. Here's a picture of mine:

If you are a big guy and ordering very large boots this is probably a good idea. If you have small feet, this would probably look a but clunky. For reference, mine above are 12C on the 55 last.

Christ those look amazing