• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. Passus shoes was founded by long term members of the forum and veterans of the shoes business. and is dedicated to crafting fine shoes in Budapest in a time honored tradition. Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new affiliate vendor thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Patek

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
3,411
Reaction score
666

Sledge42

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
183
Reaction score
255
Pet Peeve Moment: Baker's just posted an item on their Instagram page, someone's reply was "Where is mine???"
Dang!
"Patience is a virtue I shall teach you!" Is what I tell my kids A LOT!
[/rant]
 

paulraphael

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2019
Messages
167
Reaction score
171
"Patience is a virtue I shall teach you!" Is what I tell my kids A LOT!
[/rant]
The mail is testing my patience. I sent my foot outlines two weeks ago. By the time Baker's gets them, my feet may be a size wider from old age.
 

klank74

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
8
I've been reading through this thread and researching for probably the past 2 years and I've finally decided to join and make my first post.
Its been 5 long years, but I finally have enough money set aside to order my first pair of whites. But as usual, I have some questions. I apologize ahead of time if this gets a bit long winded.
I plan on ordering through Bakers. I've never had a pair of boots that truly "fit" me, and I'm hoping Kyle can help me get the sizing figured out. I'm thinking the swing last is going to be the one for me, but I'll let him make that call. Heel to toe, I measure a 13, but my arch measurement is 14.5 A/B (I have short toes). However, I have a low instep. I also think i might have "duck" feet. If I get a boot to fit good around the ball of my foot, then my instep and heel move around. If it fits my instep and heel good, then its to tight around the ball of my foot. I usually try to go with what fits the ball of my foot, but then I've only got about a fingers width between the both sides of the vamp till i get the laces pulled tight enough.
Anyways, my first set of questions centered around dealing with Kyle and Bakers, and the fitting process. How do I go about getting a fitment sheet so I can send tracings and measurements into them? Am I better off emailing Kyle or calling?
I also wanted to get your thoughts on the build I was thinking off. For almost the whole 5 years I've been saving up for some Whites, I've had my heart set on some smokejumpers or bounty hunters (not sure what you would order if you need the swing last) in brown dress. I love the way that leather ages with the lighter core showing through. But recently, I've also been considering the semi dress. I really like the look of them with internal heel counter. I think i would go with a toe cap either way. I'm thinking of going with the composition half sole or the other half sole whose name escapes me right now. I really like the look of an unbroken heel stack. Anyways, whether I went smoke jumper, or semi dress, I was dead set on brown dress, but then I saw the waxed flesh, and I really liked the cinnamon and olive wf. I really liked the olive, but then I found pictures of it online with some wear on it, and i'm not really all that crazy about the lighter shade of green that shows when it gets roughed up. So I'm thinking I'd go with the cinnamon if I go wf. Then to make matters even worse, I had a thought to myself today, I wonder if I could get the MP-M1 built on the swing last? I really like the look of the heel counter on those. I guess what I should be asking is, what do you guys think would be a good first build for a casual boot? I'm sure there will be other builds down the road.
 

klank74

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
8
I guess i should also add that I live in PA, so they will see inclimate weather.T raction is important, so I'm open to other outsole suggestions...as long as its not the vibram 100. To bulky looking. Also, I am 6' 5", about 310 lbs. I'm wondering if a double midsole might be for someone my size?
 

miggyramone

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2016
Messages
360
Reaction score
270
Here are the instructions:


It's pretty straight forward but you will need someone to help you trace your feet. Since you are a 13-14, you might need to overlap two pieces of paper.

Hope I was able to help!
 

iamntbatman

Senior Member
Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
232
Reaction score
272
I printed off the fit sheet from Frank's Boots and used that one. I'm not sure if they'll do an MP on the swing last but you could always ask. For lasts, of course fit is the most important thing, but how it looks is a close second. So after Kyle gets your fit sheet he'd be able to recommend lasts - could be that you'd also do fine in a 55 last, which might open up more pattern options.

If I were you, with your specs, I'd definitely want a double midsole (I think it balances the look of the boot well in the bigger sizes), decide on either smokejumper (external counter) or semi-dress (internal), and go for brown dress leather. Your other leather options are great, too, but man I really love that brown dress. I saw someone get the 430 mini lug sole as a half comp, so if you want the uninterrupted heel stack you could choose between that, the commando (I have it and it's great), or the standard Vibram v-bar half comp.

I've always emailed Kyle with no issues but I live on a different continent. Both calling and email have benefits - can't send a picture through the phone. But calling is faster.
 

wordfool

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
82
Reaction score
85
Do the fitting tracing printout sheet thing, send any and all other information you have about how other boot/shoe brands fit you, and then let Kyle recommend you something. You might be surprised to find your feet are more average than you thought (I know I was) and the arch support of most White's lasts makes the boots fit differently than you might imagine. But if your feet are indeed weird then you can customize the fit in many different ways.

Brown dress was the leather I chose for my first pair of White's (SDs) and IMO it's slightly browner than many photos suggest. Weird thing to say, I know, but a lot of photos make it look almost black. It's super dark brown, yes, but definitely looks brown. It's a nice leather -- not too thick but very dense/tough feeling with a very tight/fine grain. I liked it so much I ordered a pair of BH in black dress. Waxed flesh is a different beast and without regular upkeep will generally look much more casual and shabby over time. Definitely a far more casual look, which I think goes well juxtaposed with the slightly dressier shape of the MP boot (so I ordered MP-M1 in black WF). More casual leather with dressier last and dressier leather with casual lasts. That's how I roll!

I went from zero White's to three pairs in three months (assuming my BHs and MPs show up this month). It's fun to have bombproof boots that actually fit me properly without having to resort to endless fitment hacks.
 

Woodtroll

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
94
Reaction score
103
I guess i should also add that I live in PA, so they will see inclimate weather.T raction is important, so I'm open to other outsole suggestions...as long as its not the vibram 100. To bulky looking. Also, I am 6' 5", about 310 lbs. I'm wondering if a double midsole might be for someone my size?
I can't help you much with some of the other questions you have, but I can help with this one.

Yes, if you're not getting the Vibram 100 outsole, then definitely get the double leather midsole. I am almost your size, and have always worn the 100 sole. Some time back I got a pair of Stockmans that had a single midsole and a 430 outsole, and I could really feel the ground when walking on gravel or uneven ground. I felt almost like I was wearing moccasins, and not in a good way! The most recent pair of boots I bought, Smokejumpers with the 430 outsole, I got the double midsole on. What a difference! And the double midsole doesn't look "clunky" or out of proportion on that size of boot.

Good luck with the rest of your choices!
Regan
 

klank74

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
8
I printed off the fit sheet from Frank's Boots and used that one. I'm not sure if they'll do an MP on the swing last but you could always ask. For lasts, of course fit is the most important thing, but how it looks is a close second. So after Kyle gets your fit sheet he'd be able to recommend lasts - could be that you'd also do fine in a 55 last, which might open up more pattern options.

If I were you, with your specs, I'd definitely want a double midsole (I think it balances the look of the boot well in the bigger sizes), decide on either smokejumper (external counter) or semi-dress (internal), and go for brown dress leather. Your other leather options are great, too, but man I really love that brown dress. I saw someone get the 430 mini lug sole as a half comp, so if you want the uninterrupted heel stack you could choose between that, the commando (I have it and it's great), or the standard Vibram v-bar half comp.

I've always emailed Kyle with no issues but I live on a different continent. Both calling and email have benefits - can't send a picture through the phone. But calling is faster.
I'll be 39 next month and I've literally spent my entire life wearing footwear that doesn't fit me right, so I'm definitely putting the fit before looks. I do like the look of a boot built on the swing last, but almost all the ones i've seen are a smaller size. I'm a little worried about how they would look in my size, but, it is what it is, and like you said, maybe Kyle will decide something else will work better for me.

The more I think about it, I think I'm going to go with the dress brown. I've lusted after that leather for so long, I think I would kick myself if I went with the waxed flesh first. Hopefully the wf will be available for years to come. And thank you, the commando sole is the other one I was thinking of. Do you have that on a double mid sole? I thought with the layer of leather built into the commando sole, a double midsole on top of that would make them to thick to stitch through?
 

klank74

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
8
Do the fitting tracing printout sheet thing, send any and all other information you have about how other boot/shoe brands fit you, and then let Kyle recommend you something. You might be surprised to find your feet are more average than you thought (I know I was) and the arch support of most White's lasts makes the boots fit differently than you might imagine. But if your feet are indeed weird then you can customize the fit in many different ways.

Brown dress was the leather I chose for my first pair of White's (SDs) and IMO it's slightly browner than many photos suggest. Weird thing to say, I know, but a lot of photos make it look almost black. It's super dark brown, yes, but definitely looks brown. It's a nice leather -- not too thick but very dense/tough feeling with a very tight/fine grain. I liked it so much I ordered a pair of BH in black dress. Waxed flesh is a different beast and without regular upkeep will generally look much more casual and shabby over time. Definitely a far more casual look, which I think goes well juxtaposed with the slightly dressier shape of the MP boot (so I ordered MP-M1 in black WF). More casual leather with dressier last and dressier leather with casual lasts. That's how I roll!

I went from zero White's to three pairs in three months (assuming my BHs and MPs show up this month). It's fun to have bombproof boots that actually fit me properly without having to resort to endless fitment hacks.
Unfortunately, I'm not sure I have much for Kyle to go off of...None of my boots truly "fit" me. I have some that come close. I'm gonna email them though and see what he thinks.

As I said to imntbatman, I think I'm definitely going with the dress brown. There will be other boots down the road, and I'll probably try one of the wf leathers then.
 

klank74

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
8
I can't help you much with some of the other questions you have, but I can help with this one.

Yes, if you're not getting the Vibram 100 outsole, then definitely get the double leather midsole. I am almost your size, and have always worn the 100 sole. Some time back I got a pair of Stockmans that had a single midsole and a 430 outsole, and I could really feel the ground when walking on gravel or uneven ground. I felt almost like I was wearing moccasins, and not in a good way! The most recent pair of boots I bought, Smokejumpers with the 430 outsole, I got the double midsole on. What a difference! And the double midsole doesn't look "clunky" or out of proportion on that size of boot.

Good luck with the rest of your choices!
Regan
Thats good to know! I've experienced that in other boots before and it drove me nuts. How is the flexibility with the double leather midsole? Its not a big deal with this build, but I have a plan for another build for some new work boots, and flexibility is important with those. Hopefully I'm explaining this right, but, I'm a diesel mechanic, and when I'm on my knees, say, doing brakes on a truck, I try to keep my toes curled under my feet, so I don't wear out the welt at the front of my work boots, or the leather over the toes on the concrete floor. I see most of the other guys at work on their knees, with their feet layed out behind them, the toe of their boots touching the concrete, and its not long before they wear through the leather and their steel toes are poking through.
 

Woodtroll

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
94
Reaction score
103
Thats good to know! I've experienced that in other boots before and it drove me nuts. How is the flexibility with the double leather midsole? Its not a big deal with this build, but I have a plan for another build for some new work boots, and flexibility is important with those. Hopefully I'm explaining this right, but, I'm a diesel mechanic, and when I'm on my knees, say, doing brakes on a truck, I try to keep my toes curled under my feet, so I don't wear out the welt at the front of my work boots, or the leather over the toes on the concrete floor. I see most of the other guys at work on their knees, with their feet layed out behind them, the toe of their boots touching the concrete, and its not long before they wear through the leather and their steel toes are poking through.
I understand exactly what you're saying, and I do the same thing. The double midsole is a little stiffer, especially at first, but if your feet are flexible enough to make a habit of this, I think the boots will break in fine and allow you to still do this. Again, because you're talking about a big/long boot and not, say, a size 8, the leather has more length to flex over (if that makes sense?).
 

klank74

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
8
I understand exactly what you're saying, and I do the same thing. The double midsole is a little stiffer, especially at first, but if your feet are flexible enough to make a habit of this, I think the boots will break in fine and allow you to still do this. Again, because you're talking about a big/long boot and not, say, a size 8, the leather has more length to flex over (if that makes sense?).
Yup, I understand what your saying about a longer boot flexing easier. Since I'm on concrete all day, I'm planning on going with the honey vibram outsole for the extra cushioning, but I was also thinking that might help with the flexibility too.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How do you feel about spending money on non-essential goods during the Covid-19 crisis?

  • I don't want to spend money at a time of economic uncertainty, even if I could afford it.

  • I feel compelled to spend to help small businesses that are struggling.

  • I reduced my budget for non-essential goods and I'm not spending at the moment.

  • Not much has changed for me and I'm still buying stuff I can't afford.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
438,430
Messages
9,448,285
Members
198,001
Latest member
1gabriellae243eg3
Top