Critique the fit - BB Fitzgerald 38R

[soupcxan]

My latest, and hopefully, best fitting purchase. Brooks Brothers 1818 Fitzgerald in 38R. I'm 6' 145 lbs. It's navy with a faint stripe, though these photos are not the greatest so it looks darker than it is in person (next time, don't stand in front of a white wall). Only alterations were hemming the pants (free - I asked for full break) and taking in the skirt of the jacket slightly ($16). Please let me know what you think of the fit. I'm going for a slim but conservative look. The shirt is a BB Select non-iron pinpoint 14-34.

 

[musicguy]

I think the jacket is too small on the shoulders.

 

[FlaneurNYC]

The trousers are too long causing a lot of breaking and bunching both at the ankle and higher up. but some guys like substantial breakage.

I don't think the jacket is tight at all, In fact, it appears a touch large in the shoulders, if anything. They don't look tight if one follows the line of the upper arm to it's natural attachment at the shoulder. Is there a fair amount of padding in the 1818 shoulder?

 

[btinl]

I don't think the shoulders are too small. I think the suit in general is too wide. The pants are too long.

 

[theorientalist]

Isn't that the Brooks Brothers cut though?

 

[emmanuel]

The cut is wide but the shoulders are small. Size up and tailor down.

 

[bowtielover]

I think the jacket its fine, the pants look too long but that's usual with a plain bottom pant.

 

[overdog]

Jacket is a touch short. Makes your hips look wider than your shoulders.

 

[orthofrancis]

Originally Posted by emmanuel

The cut is wide but the shoulders are small. Size up and tailor down.

Yes - that is what you need to do when you get that crinkle in the lateral part of the shoulder - get a bigger jacket (=larger shoulders), and take in the chest and waist. I've done this on many of my jackets, since I have wide shoulders, and ofter get that indent below the shoulder., before I sized up, and tailored down.

 

[porcelain monkey]

I think I would have the pants taken in in the seat. The break is too much for me, but not outrageous. Jacket looks OK.

 

[soupcxan]

Thanks for the opinions - tough crowd. I think this is the best fitting suit I have found OTR to date. I guess you won't be satisfied until I go MTM? SF is a demanding mistress. These pictures haven't done the suit any favors.

I have some jackets that are slightly wider in the shoulder and I find that they overhang my natural shoulders by quite a bit. I wanted a narrower shoulder. The shoulders have some padding but it's not excessive. Agree that the jacket could stand to be a hair longer, but I don't think it's obvioulsy too short. I prefer a full break on the pants, if I get them with no break then it just accentuates how long my legs are in relation to my torso. Also, I hate having short pants ride up and expose my leg when I sit down.

 

[FlaneurNYC]

Originally Posted by soupcxan

Also, I hate having short pants ride up and expose my leg when I sit down.

The solution?

http://www.howardyount.com/collectio...-over-the-calf

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

BB is a hard sell for skinny people. I dont think it works, but sizing up and tailoring in the waist may improve things dramatically.

While in the store, pick a jacket that fits in the shoulders and chest, and have one of the staff pin up the 3 back seams. That'll give you an idea of how it will look when finished.

At 6' and 145lbs i'm amazed that a 38R doesnt fit you well, but its Brooks Brothers afterall.

I wear a light break, and usually OTC socks, but in the summer i start switching to mid calf, my leg is never exposed. Short of wearing flood pants, i really doubt it'll expose leg. Those trou are way too slim for a full break.

IMO, you may be impressed with this suit initially but if i were a BB salesperson i would be ashamed to let someone leave the store without the suit appearing as intended by the designers. A slim pant requires a light break, a shoulder shouldnt pop out of the side of a jacket, and a Skinny guy without waist suppression looks like he's wearing a Bag.

Also, the sleeves on that shirt could certainly stand to be shortened, and Darting that shirt would help out alot with cutting down on the bagginess in the back.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

P.S.

Try Golden Fleece in a 38R, double breasted, with the waist pinned.

 

[Connemara]

This is kind of disappointing--I was thinking of getting a couple of Fitzgeralds soon.

I've seen fit pics of a 38S and it looked slimmer.