Classic Menswear Lounge

[Gus]

Those very large grahic ties are such a late 80's look. I never cared for them. Too loud.

 

[Anden]

On the subject of backbladetwisting I do this from time to time depending on the tie. Not as exaggerated though. I'm on Clag's team here.

 

[MrTRC]

I don't care for it but i quite the look - on others - of extra-wide lapels and skinny ties; not slim, skinny (especially with DB suits and tab-collars). The jarring effect is pleasing to my eye.

Also, adding to Kulata's points. What about knit tie? It throws the lapel-width/tie ratio out of wack. Especially as purists don't approve of knit ties in traditional width.

And the amount of shirt collar sprouting from the back and its proportionality to the amount of shirt sleeve shown?

Is the Passagio Cravatte's proprietor tie above the most offensive item? I mean the eye of Sauron motif is disconcerting and aligned with the garish yellow. But i find the crimson thong (or bloodclart?) emananting from his pocket an eyesore.

 

[kulata]

Ties are typically smaller than lapel width so knit ties is a lot more forgivable and I won't think about it in ratios but ranges. Nothing wrong with wearing a 2.75 inch wide knit tie with a 3.5 inch or 3.75 inch lapel but when the difference is huge then it's displeasing to look at.

On the other hand, ties wider than lapel width even by smaller margins look odd. It's more noticeable when unbuttoned and you can get away with it buttoned if you have a high lapel roll where you aren't really showing the wide part of the tie.

 

[venividivicibj]

I actually like his collar.

 

[Claghorn]



Is the Passagio Cravatte's proprietor tie above the most offensive item? I mean the eye of Sauron motif is  disconcerting and aligned with the garish yellow. But i find the crimson thong (or bloodclart?)  emananting from his pocket an eyesore.

I believe the proprietor himself is the most offensive item.

 

[TweedyProf]

On a tangential note, I've noticed that larger-scale patterns that would be terrible with a 2-button SB look great with DB and 3-piece suits.

We actually discussed this a while back in this thread, I think with bolder striped ties, but the point applies more generally (e.g. most paisleys are better worn with a DB or with vest/sweater).

In general, I think an added dimension to critiquing a fit would be the balance/proportion issue that Kulata mentions.

This came up in the GNAT thread, but the shoulder to hip width is one area of proportion that I have become more attentive to, given the two jackets I discussed there: having the shoulder width be wider than hip width, if one can manage it, is pleasing to the eye.

I wouldn't sweat the cuff versus collar visibility. Some "rule books" suggest that they should be the same, say a 1/4 inch. These days, I want my cuff to just barely visible (so an 1/8 I guess), and my collar to be highly visible (perhaps a 1/2 inch above the collar). The last thing I want is my collar to collapse under my jacket when I sit down (OCD, nuances, etc.), but I find something pleasing about a high shirt collar.

 

[Gus]

I'm usually not a big fan of mixing anything but subtle patterns, but I was over at the new Kiton Boutique in San Francisco and Fritz the GM was playing around with some new Fall items. I liked this. I think what works for me is that he kept the colors, simple and coordinated, basic blues and rusts. To me that is what holds it together.

 

[TweedyProf]

Gus, I saw that on your IG. The SC is lovely, and the shirt jacket very nice too. The shirt....um....

 

[Gus]



Gus, I saw that on your IG. The SC is lovely, and the shirt jacket very nice too. The shirt....um....

You are such a gentleman with your reply.

Normally I would agree with you since I am not a fan of large scale patterns (actually, I'm a hater) on dress shirts. But, this exception worked for me.

 

[MrTRC]

Don't care for those shirts at all Mr .Gus. Not a fan of the tie too. NIce SC - don't love the buttons on it though.

 

[TweedyProf]

Well, there's a more general issue here that is interesting, and maybe something like balance as opposed to proportion: how much of one pattern is too much? In the proposed outfit, there are three checks at each layer. Even if one liked the strong checks on the shirt, might it not be one pattern too many? I guess can you find a fit where three instances of one pattern isn't too much?

I'm having a hard time imagining it, unless one instance is really toned down (small scale tattersall in muted colors with the coat and shirt-jacket).

I'm a bit afraid to ask how much the coat or shirt-jacket cost...

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Got to agree that the shirt doesn't work (although the rest is lovely) - even if you think it's 'okay', just replace it in your mind with almost anything else that would be more conventional in this context and it works better.

 

[EliodA]



Those very large grahic ties are such a late 80's look. I never cared for them. Too loud.

I'm usually not a big fan of mixing anything but subtle patterns, but I was over at the new Kiton Boutique in San Francisco and Fritz the GM was playing around with some new Fall items. I liked this. I think what works for me is that he kept the colors, simple and coordinated, basic blues and rusts. To me that is what holds it together.

Posted only half a day apart. What made you change your mind, Gus?

 

[Gus]

The context of my comment is about boldly patterned ties. And, I haven't changed my mind.