Buying used car help me decide

[951socal]

The mustang you added this morning just looks haggard, the guy tried to make it look like a terminator and probably evved and power shifted the **** out of that thing for years like it actually was a terminator.

i'd avoid it.

 

[Logan]

That Mustang is possibly the ugliest model after the Fox body. It does come with a SS exhaust though, that's a plus. If it were me I'd consider the Saab or the '99 Infiniti. Whatever you choose, make sure you ask lots of questions and drive the car for more than a quick rip around the block. Highway speeds will expose and shakes and weird noises like worn out wheel bearings.

 

[moolala]

Originally Posted by Logan

Highway speeds will expose and shakes and weird noises like worn out wheel bearings.

Good to know. ax'd the '98 GT but saw a '00 GT that I like a lot better design wise (see pic).

 

[pgd3]

Maybe the G20, its not my style and I don't know much about them.

To me I'd be trying to find the most solid example of either a subaru, or a VW, or a BMW.

For a run for 2 years car the Mustang isn't a contender. Its one of those cars you buy because you NEED a mustang. Not because its a good car by any stretch.

A solid MB 240D can always be abused indefinately... just sayin.

 

[uhurit]

Buy a used Ford Taurus for next to nothing: a solid workhorse and cheap to fix

 

[rocks]

All bad choices, as said the Nissan is utter rubbish, why not buy a decent Japanese econo box with 4 cylinders, preferably an Accord or Civic. An automatic or manual Honda 4 cylinder will last you a long time with cheap simple tune-ups and such. Avoid 6 cylinder cars with that kinda budget.

 

[951socal]

Originally Posted by moolala

Good to know. ax'd the '98 GT but saw a '00 GT that I like a lot better design wise (see pic).
avoid mustangs in general, most are young teenage female owned, and you would wind up paying for the yers of neglect through bloody knuckles and aneptied wallet. plus they're not as fast as you'd imagine, even the mustangs with the mach 1 package or the factory cobras prior to the 03-04 series were pretty lackluster. for your budget, you're going to work on SOMETHING, can't walk into the used car makret expecting to keep oil off your hands. but Toyota camrys and corollas of the early 00s are in your range. before anyone says anything about the brake issues and the quality standards, the throttle issues were absent in the drive by throttle cable cars, as the throttle issues where software based on the newer cars equippd with the druve by wire mechnisms. but feel free to rip te floor mats out of your older toyota

 

[moolala]

Originally Posted by 951socal

before anyone says anything about the brake issues and the quality standards, the throttle issues were absent in the drive by throttle cable cars, as the throttle issues where software based on the newer cars equippd with the druve by wire mechnisms. but feel free to rip te floor mats out of your older toyota

can you expound on this

 

[pgd3]

Originally Posted by moolala

can you expound on this

This was the "run away toyota" phenomenon from last fall where in toyota recalled a bunch of vehicles.

First it was said that the issue was people putting "all weather" floor mats over the carpet mat and causing the material to obstruct the pedal.

Then they started replacing throttle units, the physical pedals, because I believe the concept was the plastic/bushing things would get hung up and not return.

I do not recall them ever recalling the electronic components, and really, if they're engineered the same way at toyota as most it'd be silly to.

Most electronic throttle by wire systems have a few sensors, one that tells the computer how far the pedal is from the floor, and another that says how far it is from the top. And those two signals have to compute out the same.

Figure if the pedal is 10% down it must also be 90% up, if its 30% down and 10% up the system should recognize a fault.



Anyhow, beyond the pedal thing I do not know of a single car that does not have more "horsepower" in the brakes than it does in the engine. That being if you stomp on the brakes in your car and the throttle at the same time all cars with working brakes stop. If you feel manly try it in yours.

This to me says the only ways to experience a "run away" auto involve:
1: The brake is on the right isn't it?
2: Hmm my car seems to be accelerating I'll just ride the brakes to hold 70 mph - brake fade
3: Wall! Wall! what to do??? BLAM.

 

[951socal]

Originally Posted by pgd3

This was the "run away toyota" phenomenon from last fall where in toyota recalled a bunch of vehicles.

First it was said that the issue was people putting "all weather" floor mats over the carpet mat and causing the material to obstruct the pedal.

Then they started replacing throttle units, the physical pedals, because I believe the concept was the plastic/bushing things would get hung up and not return.

I do not recall them ever recalling the electronic components, and really, if they're engineered the same way at toyota as most it'd be silly to.

Most electronic throttle by wire systems have a few sensors, one that tells the computer how far the pedal is from the floor, and another that says how far it is from the top. And those two signals have to compute out the same.

Figure if the pedal is 10% down it must also be 90% up, if its 30% down and 10% up the system should recognize a fault.



Anyhow, beyond the pedal thing I do not know of a single car that does not have more "horsepower" in the brakes than it does in the engine. That being if you stomp on the brakes in your car and the throttle at the same time all cars with working brakes stop. If you feel manly try it in yours.

This to me says the only ways to experience a "run away" auto involve:
1: The brake is on the right isn't it?
2: Hmm my car seems to be accelerating I'll just ride the brakes to hold 70 mph - brake fade
3: Wall! Wall! what to do??? BLAM.


i belive they were reflashing the EcU's through the DTC ports while they recalled the pedal assemblies on some of the vehicles.

to be honest, there isn't really anything to fear, and if the OP does fear it and is avoinding toyota just drive stick.

runway car-> hold clutch in, brake to stop.

the car will be revving the piss out of its self and probably shooting rods all over the freeway but at least you don't die

 

[Logan]

Originally Posted by 951socal

i belive they were reflashing the EcU's through the DTC ports while they recalled the pedal assemblies on some of the vehicles.

to be honest, there isn't really anything to fear, and if the OP does fear it and is avoinding toyota just drive stick.

runway car-> hold clutch in, brake to stop.

the car will be revving the piss out of its self and probably shooting rods all over the freeway but at least you don't die

This is what my friend and I always said. If the car is speeding away on you, why the hell wouldn't you put it in neutral, pull over and stop? I doubt the engine would throw a rod just bouncing off the redline for a minute. You could even just shut the car off while stopping.

 

[moolala]

apologies for digging this back up but i'm probably closing out a deal this week. it's between a '04 honda accord (140k) and a '03 impreza (120k).

Ran both by mechanics and looks like the Accord needs a windshield and the subaru has a blown gasket and needs struts. both cars drive super.

thx sf

 

[951socal]

Originally Posted by moolala

apologies for digging this back up but i'm probably closing out a deal this week. it's between a '04 honda accord (140k) and a '03 impreza (120k).

Ran both by mechanics and looks like the Accord needs a windshield and the subaru has a blown gasket and needs struts. both cars drive super.

thx sf


get the accord, those older ej20's last about as long as well...an older ej20. unless you want to swap in ej207 into it, then i would pass. i know with the head gasket blown like that its a simple swap with the layout the way it is, biut you're buying someelse problem, and its not worth as much as a wrx or sti.where you can get a wrx with a blown HG probably for cheaper than the imprezra

the accord has the k24 in it, which is essentially the new age hot rod motor replacing the classic b series. parts everywehre and parts can be used from everything from a civic si to a rsx, to pretty much everything overseas anywhere bearing an A or H on the hood. including a few saturns.

 

[moolala]

Originally Posted by 951socal

get the accord, those older ej20's last about as long as well...an older ej20. unless you want to swap in ej207 into it, then i would pass. i know with the head gasket blown like that its a simple swap with the layout the way it is, biut you're buying someelse problem, and its not worth as much as a wrx or sti.where you can get a wrx with a blown HG probably for cheaper than the imprezra

the accord has the k24 in it, which is essentially the new age hot rod motor replacing the classic b series. parts everywehre and parts can be used from everything from a civic si to a rsx, to pretty much everything overseas anywhere bearing an A or H on the hood. including a few saturns.

thanks this is very useful information. I'm leaning the accord. For disclosure here's the stats and major issues after getting them both checked out:

Impreza '03 140k manual
$5300
*Blown left rear strut
*Drive belt cracked
*Coolant leak on left side head gasket

Accord '04 120K manual
$5800
*Cracked windshield
*Due for timing belt