Bought my first suit - how did I do?

[Sator]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Wow, thanks! I don't know that I am the epitome of anything, but I do have a couple of thoughts that go against some of the conventional wisdom here.

-First of all, I think that 90% of the people favor too high a button stance. I really like a high gorge (short collar/long lapel), but do not think that a button stance more than a half inch or so above the natural waist is all that flattering. I think it ends up with too many people looking like a stuffed sausage even in a suit that fits well. This goes double if you like some waist suppression as I do.


When it comes to being knowledgable Matt is the man really - not I.

I guess we are talking SBs here - in which case that look with a longer lapel line and lower button stance is very elongating. A lower button stance close to or at the natural waist does have its advantages too. The most striking instance is with the SB one button coat. It certainly does work well combined with a bit of extra waist suppression. Matt's coats are made like this to excellent effect.

Right throughout the 19th and 20th century the fashion waist went up and down like a yo-yo but the important thing is to find what works for you. I tend to wear mainly DBs where I have found a highish button stance/fashion waist with side pockets also cut highish works well. Getting the button stance just right is very hard and has to be individualised to each wearer.

ps as far as the Bostonian shoes go: sometimes you have to ask yourself if you are rich enough to buy cheap stuff....

 

[aspriel]

Sator: They were 10 bucks at an outlet. I got that much use out of them.

The thing I'm seeing (as a poor college student who just bought a Zegna suit) is that I shouldn't get one size lower in shoes because they're cheap. I wear a 14 (probably a wider 14) and none of the cheaper dress shoe companies even make that size. I tried Banana Republic, the cheaper house brands at Macy's, etc. - no 14s.

Sigh....

 

[The_Foxx]

hmmm....well, size 14 shoes can be hard to find-- but the good news is, i don't think there are many people with that shoe size, so you can often find them at reduced prices or on sale. Allen Edmonds is famous for making shoes in all shapes and sizes, but maybe a nice pair of mezlans for your zegna suit? i'm betting you can pick up either of these for $100.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MEZLAN-Black...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MEZLAN-Brown...QQcmdZViewItem

Also, be sure to check black shoes in size 14 on www.shoes.com

 

[aspriel]

I now own a size 11 EEE pair of Park Avenues. I have no idea why it's so small, but they fit perfectly.

 

[Jovan]

Originally Posted by MrDaniels

Think conservative, not plain. An attractive stripe pattern or something like a small diamond pattern. Look at the two suit/ tie combos iammatt is wearing on this page of the What Are You Wearing Now thread: http://styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=2619&page=286 This guy is like the pinnnacle of stylish, yet professional dress. Observe and learn, Young Grasshopper! And good luck at your job fair! (and don't forget, 90% of the other men your age will have no idea how to dress-even if you are not quite ready to emulate some of the better dressers here, you are still ahead of the pack)
+1 I personally favour ties in patterns like these as far as conservatism goes. Do work on the tie knot. Thicker ties do indeed produce a better one as well. Is the suit navy?

 

[aspriel]

Yes, the suit is navy.

 

[Jovan]

Couldn't tell from the photo. You didn't make the same mistake I did of choosing black! That is to be commended. Had I found this forum years ago things would be different.

 

[cmrocks]

Nice. I just picked up the same suit, Z Zegna, but mine is dark grey and not navy. I'm really happy with mine so far.