Boots Boots Boots - For Boot Guys Only

[Phoenician]

Very nice. In your experience, how does Cheaney compare with other English makers? I've eyed a few models (Cheaney and private label for Bodiley's) but never pulled the trigger

I like them, but like anything else, depends on the model. They have some nice touches, like the logo sole (merely aesthetics), the butter soft leather linings and footbeds. I have have the Cheaney Pennine II, their King boots in shell, and these, so a small sample set, but certainly well made and good attention-to-detail. The Pennine is a true veldt boot, and a nice one at that. That said, if I had to rank the British makers (based on their boot quality) in order from 1-5, I'd do it this way. Granted, these are MTM mid-tier makers, excluding the top echelon of GG, EG, Lobb

5.0 - C&J - very nice leather quality generally speaking, styles and attention to detail, but they do cut mild corners occasionally on some models. I have five pair now, all attractive, very well made and nice boots. I will say that the leather used on my CJ for Ralph Lauren purple label 'Lindrick' is far better than my newly purchased chestnut Skye III (but I also recall the Lindrick had a huge retail price when new and reading they had made these for RL nearer to handgrade specs/quality).

4.5 - Alfred Sargent, especially their 'Exclusive' collection; but tough to find now although they're ramping back up again. Really nice touches on many models, very nice leather and construction. I have the Hannover brogue, Selkirk, and an 'Exclusive' suede Cambridge; all are impressive in build and leather quality. Good leather range, although don't think they've ever done shell, but to their credit, one of the few that have ever done a true Horween Zug grain.

4.5 - Tricker's - not as many boot models as some, but a dizzying array of colors, leathers, soles, etc. So much so, that it's fun when Zippy and Crafty post theirs. Very nice consistant quality and leather array from shell, leather, kudu, calf, etc. Seems like the 'go-to' boot for English country style, but unlike many on this list, they seem content to master the British country boot and leave the sleek dress boot to others.

3.75 - Cheaney - wide range of styles, good construction, leather quality depends on model and price. Good customer service from what I've dealt with, and an honest product for an honest price point. Like C&J, leather options run the gamet from shell, suede, calf, but don't have the 'cool' options like Russian hatch grain or exotic leathers. Not sure if they have ever made their handgrade collection (collection name escapes me now) into boots, but the shoes in this range are excellent craftsmanship.

3.0 - Barker, Loake: of these, I prefer Barker over Loake; quality can be consistent but with the lower cost comes lower leather quality on some models; example, owned the Loake Bedale brogue boot: looked handsome enough at first glance, but leather was like cardboard. Barker has nice chelseas though, I have two of them and they are excellent for the money. Some Loakes are made in India, although price reflects it as they're much lower cost.

2.5 - Sanders - only owned one, but have seen/handled four more models. Good value it seems, of course some corners are cut. some are made out of UK though with lower costs

this is merely my opionion based on what I've seen and own/owned, which are all of the above. Granted, there are certain models in each brand that rank higher or lower than their brand status in my view.

 

[Phoenician]

I really like those, do they come with any kind of rubber sole? Been looking for a medium/light sided option with a rubber sole for rainy days

They do have a chelsea that has a very thin textured rubber sole. It almost looks like a full length thin Topy sole that was factory stiched over the leather. Nice, because you don't notice any thickness and you get the grip of rubber with a thin leather sole. Can't recall the model name off the top of my head though

 

[Mercurio]

I really like those, do they come with any kind of rubber sole? Been looking for a medium/light sided option with a rubber sole for rainy days

They do have a chelsea that has a very thin textured rubber sole. It almost looks like a full length thin Topy sole that was factory stiched over the leather. Nice, because you don't notice any thickness and you get the grip of rubber with a thin leather sole. Can't recall the model name off the top of my head though

Even though they are not as sleek as the very nice Threadneedle, I own the Kirkdale, Chelsea boots made by Cheaney for Herring, that are perfect for rainy days thanks to their grain leather, Dainite soles and Veldtschoen construction.

Herring Kirkdale (Rubber) rubber-soled Chelsea boots in mahogany grain from Herring Shoes

In a style reminiscent of the Australian work boot, the Kirkdale is an elasticated gusset boot in rich mahogany grain leather and fashioned on the 175 last. Extremely rugged and water resistant, thanks to their Veldtschoen construction and Dainite rubber

www.herringshoes.co.uk

From a few pages back on this thread:

 

[Phoenician]

Even though they are not as sleek as the very nice Threadneedle, I own the Kirkdale, Chelsea boots made by Cheaney for Herring, that are perfect for rainy days thanks to their grain leather, Dainite soles and Veldtschoen construction.

Herring Kirkdale (Rubber) rubber-soled Chelsea boots in mahogany grain from Herring Shoes

In a style reminiscent of the Australian work boot, the Kirkdale is an elasticated gusset boot in rich mahogany grain leather and fashioned on the 175 last. Extremely rugged and water resistant, thanks to their Veldtschoen construction and Dainite rubber

www.herringshoes.co.uk

From a few pages back on this thread:

wow, those are superb! A veldt chelsea with pebble grain is awesome, Seems like rhe ultimate travel boot for airports in the winter or rainy season!

 

[Cade]

I love the weather these days, don't you? ?

 

[Betelgeuse]

Chukkas

 

[woofmang]

Grant Stone CXL Diesels today:

 

[Phoenician]

One of my favorite boot styles, these are the rarely seen Allen Edmonds Promontory Point, in Horween dark cognac shell. I love how they used two layers of shell in places for better rigidity, the fact that they're unlined, and the gradual patina these are taking on.
This model was originally made in a cool Horween Duke authentic football pebble (the same leather Horween supplies for all NFL footballs) This particular boot in this shell makeup were a GTMO here on SF in 2014.

 

[flylikeneagle]

One of my favorite boot styles, these are the rarely seen Allen Edmonds Promontory Point, in Horween dark cognac shell. I love how they used two layers of shell in places for better rigidity, the fact that they're unlined, and the gradual patina these are taking on.
This model was originally made in a cool Horween Duke authentic football pebble (the same leather Horween supplies for all NFL footballs) This particular boot in this shell makeup were a GTMO here on SF in 2014.


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These look great. Like them better than the football grain version I owned several yrs ago, and much prefer these over AE made wolverine 1k mile version.

 

[Phoenician]

These look great. Like them better than the football grain version I owned several yrs ago, and much prefer these over AE made wolverine 1k mile version.

Thanks, I do as well. I do think the football grained were a cool idea and would like to see more boots in that leather. They did a bang-up job with this shell model

 

[Northants bloke]

I like them, but like anything else, depends on the model. They have some nice touches, like the logo sole (merely aesthetics), the butter soft leather linings and footbeds. I have have the Cheaney Pennine II, their King boots in shell, and these, so a small sample set, but certainly well made and good attention-to-detail. The Pennine is a true veldt boot, and a nice one at that. That said, if I had to rank the British makers (based on their boot quality) in order from 1-5, I'd do it this way. Granted, these are MTM mid-tier makers....
..... 3.75 - Cheaney - wide range of styles, good construction, leather quality depends on model and price. Good customer service from what I've dealt with, and an honest product for an honest price point. Like C&J, leather options run the gamet from shell, suede, calf, but don't have the 'cool' options like Russian hatch grain or exotic leathers. Not sure if they have ever made their handgrade collection (collection name escapes me now) into boots, but the shoes in this range are excellent craftsmanship.

I live near all of these factories and have visited them all except for AS and Sanders which don't have factory outlets. You could also add NPS and Church. Grenson also has a local factory but no local outlet. You may wish to include or exclude Dr Martens who make a few locally. There are also companies like John Whites that sell inferior shoes based on their local heritage of factories they closed decades ago!

I think Loake and Barkers fall in the middle. They are larger than some of the other companies. Not all of their products are welted and Loake will certainly stitch the uppers in India and legally sell as made in England. Loakes still make some nice traditional Brogues and boots and are available in department stores.

The other companies are genuine heritage brands made on site. Personally I rate Cheaney over Trickers unless you specifically want their kudo options or whacky colours.

As for AS or CJ, you might say they have a higher level of attention to detail in the cutting of the soles and adding pinking to the welting. To my mind you have to look pretty close to find the difference. Cheaney add patina to the finish on some models which can sometimes appear as inconsistent to some customers.

Personally I have over 20 pairs of Cheaney against only one pair of CJ and one Trickers. Some of these are seconds but I love the range of styles and cuts including country boots, smart boots, the softest (much abused) suede chukkas on dainite soles. Sleek dress shoes in a wide range of finishes, chunky casual shoes. The range constantly changes and I pretty much live in Cheaneys. YMMV.

 

[armedferret]

I caved at the eleventh hour.

 

[woofmang]

I caved at the eleventh hour.

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Truman?

 

[woofmang]

AE Surreys today:

 

[audog]

These look great. Like them better than the football grain version I owned several yrs ago, and much prefer these over AE made wolverine 1k mile version.

I agree with you on liking these more than the 1K's. I also had a pair of the football grains, but just never could get them to feel right on my feet, but I like the boot design a lot.