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Bespoke shirt - why would there be a crease running to my armpit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by robbyram, Feb 16, 2013.

  1. robbyram

    robbyram New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2013
    Hello,

    I commissioned a bespoke shirt from my local tailor. He told me that he adjusted for my sloping shoulders in the yoke.

    However, I am wondering why there is still a crease running from the top of my shoulder to the armpit? What would be causing this and do you guys have any suggestions on how to fix this in future commissions. Additional comments to improve the fit in other areas of this shirt would also be greatly appreciated.

    Note: In terms of fit, my goal is to have a slim fitting shirt; trim with clean drape, but not tight.

    Thank you!

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    Hello,

    I commissioned a bespoke shirt from my local tailor. He told me that he adjusted for my sloping shoulders in the yoke.

    However, I am wondering why there is still a crease running from the top of my shoulder to the armpit? What would be causing this and do you guys have any suggestions on how to fix this in future commissions. Additional comments to improve the fit in other areas of this shirt would also be greatly appreciated.

    Note: In terms of fit, my goal is to have a slim fitting shirt; trim with clean drape, but not tight.

    Thank you!
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  2. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

    Messages:
    1,653
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    Mar 7, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco, California
    Use the "image" button to post pictures.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jun 12, 2010
    Location:
    Keyboard War Room
    It's likely caused by the wrong angle of shoulder slope. I had the same issue when I first had shirts made for me. I have sloping shoulders and once the angle was adjusted by taking a slice out of the shoulder seam, the crease disappeared. Good luck.
     
  4. robbyram

    robbyram New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2013
    Poke..I posted up the images for your convenience. Thanks!
     
  5. dbuisson

    dbuisson New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2013
    Dear Robbyram,

    Further to your blog re the fabric gatherings from your shoulders to your armpits the tailor had either got your measurements wrong it had not been made correctly. Have you spoken to them about it as a bespoke shirt should not look like this.

    Kind regards,

    David Buisson
    Finicky
     
  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    you have very sloping shoulders.
    you will never be able to clean all of that up.
    armholes could be a touch higher
     
  7. robbyram

    robbyram New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2013
    Thank you for the replies. I have been thinking, the slanted crease may most likely be due to the "pulling" downwards of the bottom area of the armhole.

    Perhaps, I should decrease the chest measurement to bring the shirt vest component closer to the body and increase the size of the armhole to accomodate for my sloping shoulders pulling down on the bottom area of the armhole.
    Also, decrease the waist measurement as there seems to be a little billowing.

    Correct me if i am wrong. Thanks!
     

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