bboysdontcryy
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2010
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All began when Edwin Deboise and Mahon discussed briefly the differences between drafting methods -- 'Rock of Eye' and using Manipulations -- on the LL and elsewhere.
Being the clothing hobbyist I am, I then plied my cutter, whom I've been using for some time now, with questions that span a gamut of topics: How shoulder expressions can be adjusted on the pattern, how one creates a drape and swelled chest, the appropriate button stance commensurate with one's height, the differences between the various styles on the Row etc.
I reckon he must be tired of spending so much time explaining how stuff is done (LOL).
He recently agreed to spend an evening providing a free mini-lecture and demonstration on how those 'inches and centimeters' he takes, are turned into a paper pattern, and how he goes about adjusting for physiological differences when cutting a suit.
Since I've gained a lot from the forum, I thought I'd open this free demonstration and mini-lecture type Q & A to like-minded clothing hobbyists and those who are keen on seeing how a paper pattern is cut after measurements are taken and how a suit is then made up by the coat-maker.
This is also probably a stellar (and free) opportunity to ask basic questions about the ideal style that suits one's physique, gathering a professional and more technical insight into the 'myths' behind bespeaking a suit -- soft and military.
If anybody is interested in bringing a picture on Foo's critique of NSM's shoulders etc, it'd probably be interesting to hear a professional opinion on it.
Question: Are there any topics or questions I (as well as others) should pose?
Cutter
John McCabe, the cutter, is a Savile Row stalwart and spent 12 years at Dege and Skinner, and 17 years as a head cutter at Kilgour, and before that, at Carr, Son and Woor where Lyndon Johnson famously stomped in saying: 'I want to look like a British diplomat'.
More information on him here
Meeting Details:
I haven't arranged a date for the mini-lecture yet since he only just agreed to do this an hour ago. But I'm thinking of having it in the evening after work where most of us will probably be free. You might need to come up with an excuse to tell your wife, however.
Any opinions on date and time?
Some pictures
Not sure how relevant these pictures are, but I figured I might as well post an example of a conservative business suit (My first DB with him since I prefer SBs) I had him make up quite some time ago. Stylistic preferences like a more waist-ed silhouette with swelled chest with a touch of drape are mine.
Only had one fitting for this because I went abroad for a bit and had him send the coat to me thereafter.
Yes, I know, I'm a dwarf.
Being the clothing hobbyist I am, I then plied my cutter, whom I've been using for some time now, with questions that span a gamut of topics: How shoulder expressions can be adjusted on the pattern, how one creates a drape and swelled chest, the appropriate button stance commensurate with one's height, the differences between the various styles on the Row etc.
I reckon he must be tired of spending so much time explaining how stuff is done (LOL).
He recently agreed to spend an evening providing a free mini-lecture and demonstration on how those 'inches and centimeters' he takes, are turned into a paper pattern, and how he goes about adjusting for physiological differences when cutting a suit.
Since I've gained a lot from the forum, I thought I'd open this free demonstration and mini-lecture type Q & A to like-minded clothing hobbyists and those who are keen on seeing how a paper pattern is cut after measurements are taken and how a suit is then made up by the coat-maker.
This is also probably a stellar (and free) opportunity to ask basic questions about the ideal style that suits one's physique, gathering a professional and more technical insight into the 'myths' behind bespeaking a suit -- soft and military.
If anybody is interested in bringing a picture on Foo's critique of NSM's shoulders etc, it'd probably be interesting to hear a professional opinion on it.
Question: Are there any topics or questions I (as well as others) should pose?
Cutter
John McCabe, the cutter, is a Savile Row stalwart and spent 12 years at Dege and Skinner, and 17 years as a head cutter at Kilgour, and before that, at Carr, Son and Woor where Lyndon Johnson famously stomped in saying: 'I want to look like a British diplomat'.
More information on him here
Meeting Details:
I haven't arranged a date for the mini-lecture yet since he only just agreed to do this an hour ago. But I'm thinking of having it in the evening after work where most of us will probably be free. You might need to come up with an excuse to tell your wife, however.
Any opinions on date and time?
Some pictures
Not sure how relevant these pictures are, but I figured I might as well post an example of a conservative business suit (My first DB with him since I prefer SBs) I had him make up quite some time ago. Stylistic preferences like a more waist-ed silhouette with swelled chest with a touch of drape are mine.
Only had one fitting for this because I went abroad for a bit and had him send the coat to me thereafter.
Yes, I know, I'm a dwarf.
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