Behind Closed Doors: Upcoming Paper Pattern and Suit-making Demonstration by Savile Row Cutter

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bboysdontcryy, May 7, 2013.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    All began when Edwin Deboise and Mahon discussed briefly the differences between drafting methods -- 'Rock of Eye' and using Manipulations -- on the LL and elsewhere.

    Being the clothing hobbyist I am, I then plied my cutter, whom I've been using for some time now, with questions that span a gamut of topics: How shoulder expressions can be adjusted on the pattern, how one creates a drape and swelled chest, the appropriate button stance commensurate with one's height, the differences between the various styles on the Row etc.

    I reckon he must be tired of spending so much time explaining how stuff is done (LOL).

    He recently agreed to spend an evening providing a free mini-lecture and demonstration on how those 'inches and centimeters' he takes, are turned into a paper pattern, and how he goes about adjusting for physiological differences when cutting a suit.

    Since I've gained a lot from the forum, I thought I'd open this free demonstration and mini-lecture type Q & A to like-minded clothing hobbyists and those who are keen on seeing how a paper pattern is cut after measurements are taken and how a suit is then made up by the coat-maker.

    This is also probably a stellar (and free) opportunity to ask basic questions about the ideal style that suits one's physique, gathering a professional and more technical insight into the 'myths' behind bespeaking a suit -- soft and military.

    If anybody is interested in bringing a picture on Foo's critique of NSM's shoulders etc, it'd probably be interesting to hear a professional opinion on it.

    Question: Are there any topics or questions I (as well as others) should pose?

    Cutter

    John McCabe, the cutter, is a Savile Row stalwart and spent 12 years at Dege and Skinner, and 17 years as a head cutter at Kilgour, and before that, at Carr, Son and Woor where Lyndon Johnson famously stomped in saying: 'I want to look like a British diplomat'.

    More information on him here

    Meeting Details:


    I haven't arranged a date for the mini-lecture yet since he only just agreed to do this an hour ago. But I'm thinking of having it in the evening after work where most of us will probably be free. You might need to come up with an excuse to tell your wife, however.

    Any opinions on date and time?

    Some pictures

    Not sure how relevant these pictures are, but I figured I might as well post an example of a conservative business suit (My first DB with him since I prefer SBs) I had him make up quite some time ago. Stylistic preferences like a more waist-ed silhouette with swelled chest with a touch of drape are mine.

    Only had one fitting for this because I went abroad for a bit and had him send the coat to me thereafter.

    Yes, I know, I'm a dwarf.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Nice one on getting a lecture opportunity. I hope I can be there after my exams.

    I think a key topic should be an illustration of Traditional LL drape and the military cut.

    I am more keen about why he choose the tailoring business when he is young, so more about his life generally.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Sounds very interesting. Someone in London should record this and post for the benefit of us New Yorkers.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Would be awesome if somebody could video. Sounds great though, well done, bboys.
     
  5. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    That's a really awesome DB jacket. Ideal buttoning point, lapel shape, and amount of wrap IMO.
     
  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I must say bboysdontcryy's outfits are always tasteful.
     
  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Thanks guys -- the suit's rather conservative. Unbel, recording it sounds like an extremely good idea, and it'd probably be informative for the rest who can't make it in person. Of course, the technical bits will be a challenge.

    Are there general topics/or burning questions that somebody attending should think about posing?

    Would be good to hear some so the cutter can touch on topics that are less common, and which aren't overdone. Want to make the best of this opportunity since it's very rare to be able to get a mini-lecture/demonstration.

    I'll think of qns of course, but I probably don't know what I don't know.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  8. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    C, +1 on the idea of recording a video, I would also be very interested.

    Nice DB too! Did you explicitly ask for 4 buttons (vs 6)?
     
  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I 'shuttled' back and forth between 4 and 6 given my height and proportions. Do you think it'd have been better off with 6?

    Duke below has 4

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    This sounds like a great opportunity, bboy.

    Some ideas for questions:

    1. I'd like to know if he thinks it makes any difference in the end product whether a cutter drafts a pattern using a block pattern, drafting formula, or Rock of Eye.
    2. In his time in the business, has he seen any changes in how cutters are trained, or how long they train for?
    3. Does he think it makes a difference if the cutter is at the fitting?

    Thomas Mahon had a cutting demonstrate/ lecture for clothing enthusiasts many years ago. I think some members here went. If any did, perhaps we can get ideas for questions from them, based on what they saw there.
     
  11. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Very good questions -- especially the first, since I'm not really sure it's been actually answered. Either that, or I don't know where to look for an answer.


    If anybody has more qns, please continue PM-ing/post them here, whichever.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013

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