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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Unstructured DB would be interesting, and I'm sure I've seen a few of these around.

    Interestingly, I have purchase two DBs this year and both were in a linen blend. The first was a Canali jacket - here the mix is wool-linen-silk:


    [​IMG]


    This jacket is half-canvassed and while the linen and silk add softness and flow, the wool keeps everything draping correctly.

    The other was the suit I had made for my wedding reception. In this case, 70% linen/30% silk, fabric from Marzoni which is actually woven in China.

    [​IMG]

    Look to the right, dummy. To the right.

    As you can see, much more crinkly. Wearing a full suit in this peach-coloured material is obviously a bit outré, and it will take me some time to build up the courage to wear it again. But I fully intend to wear the jacket as a stand-alone. There are, however, still a couple of small problems with it, which will require a further visit to the tailor at some point.

    Basically, if you're going to go for an unstructured, full linen DB jacket, it will have to fit like a glove. Don't even think about it unless you have a top-notch tailor ready and waiting.
     
    3 people like this.
  2. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    The Canali looks good cox. Similar colour to one I have; that one's an unlined, cashmere-cotton blend.

    I had a photo I was going to post but computer's not behaving at the moment.
     
  3. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    That Canali looks really nice on you, cox.

    I received my Reigning Champ sweater today, was a tad bit worried about sizing, as the last two crews I got(both APC) I got in XS, but I got a small in this. Very happy, an XS would have been too small. I highly recommend it, it's really soft and the material feels great, stitching looks great too. It's a tad on the expensive side though, but I did manage to get it on special.
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  4. Oli2012

    Oli2012 Senior member

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    I asked FXH this question via PM about a month back. He asked it be post on the Aussie thread in order he be conjured out of his lamp (FWIW, Rob and a few others would have interesting responses as well).

    How many suits do you need to survive a 5 day work week? (assuming a suit is worn 5 days, or x4 a week with a casual friday)

    On the one hand you have Manton, who says 24 (12 for summer 12 for winter). This is obviously excessive.

    General SF consensus seems to be one suit for each day of the week, but again this is from people who love clothing with dubious financial priorities.

    I get that its a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but what would the average person who wanted to maximise the lifespan of their clothing without breaking the budget do?
     
  5. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    24 is ridiculous. Talking needs, not wants - then 3-4 mid weight suits is all you "need", plus maybe 1-2 winter suits and 1-2 summer suits.
     
  6. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    Some people don't care what reputation they have for what they wear. So if they wear the same suit everyday to work, they don't care if people know they only have one suit. To them, it's the most insignificant thing in what would be a perfectly happy life.

    Other people get bored with their clothing and "need" variety to be happy.

    I guess my point is, the answer lies within, not what is expected from other people. If you like to wear only navy, fu*k it! Wear only navy.

    This coming from the dude that said that it wasn't "advisable" to wear a pocket square because it doesn't fit in. Mwahahaha.

    Personally, I think 5 good suits is more than enough.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014
  7. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

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    A bit too lazy to write up in full on recent trip to Paris. So just a quick summary:

    Carmina had sales- but prices still higher than online shop. Realised happily that Soller last is a good fit. Also half converted wife who tried on a pair and said it was really comfortable. Edward Green had stuff on for 25% off, but nothing in my size I liked. Had a browse of Emling shoes and Corthay shoes. Waaaay too narrow for me.

    Charvet had no sales, but somehow ended up with a PS and Tie.

    Boggi stuff was excellent value for money. SC with VBC wool for E315 before detax. Similar SCs with Fratelli material. Fused stuff though, but irrelevant if it fits well. And oh yes, flannel pants in three different shades of grey, each for only E99 before detax.

    Gant- bought a navy shawl collar cardigan which turned out to be surprisingly useful for layering.

    Paul Smith- well folks, during sales, they were throwing this stuff out. And they are indiscriminate. Socks made in Thailand are priced the same as socks make in Italy/Germany, all going for E11 before detax. Flannel pants made in Italy- yours for only E150 before detax. Byard Suits Made in Italy all E499 before detax.

    Prices at the La Vallee outlet are really attractive. A Hackett tweed hunting jacket made with Fox Brother's material for E175 before detax, and examining the garment closely, I just cannot figure out how the selling price will generate any profit, just considering the raw materials alone. Missus went nuts in the Valentino and Courreges shops.

    Dormeuil has a shop in La Fayette. Picked up a really nice light grey/dark grey two sided scarf there. Service was snooty so did not really bother to check out their suits. Tried on a suit jacket clearly one size too large, and sales guy was telling me that it is good because "this is French cut." Sure....

    Bruce Field and Arthur & Fox have some really good fitting shirts made with good material on sale. Plus all shirts made in France.

    Walked passed all the usual names, Camps De Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto, etc, but did not have time or budget to get something made up.

    Learned lots about umbrellas from Parapluie Simons, and encountered my first umbrella with a price tag of E2000 at Sofjer. Geez....

    The usual gastronomic experience, ranging from 3 hatted (Le Meurice- nice dining room, food is unique but bill shock), 2 hatted (Vefour- sensational), bistros (Carette- amazing, Clement- shit, Claude- okay, Mondial- ok, Laduree- expensive but good), and even took the metro to Chinatown for some decent Vietnamese Pho. Discovered that we really liked Langres cheese, and that macarons at Herme are way better than Laduree or Angelina. Heard a funny story from waiter at Cafe Nemours regarding the filming of the Tourist- restaurant paid to close for 2 days and one section boarded up to accomodate Jolie, Pitt and their kids. And French yoghurt is really, I mean really, good.

    Perfume/fragrance run- which I will not bore you with. Visited the Opera Garnier, Versailles, and lots of "out of time, out of place" sites called museums. Learned to use the buses, and realised how really provincial we are in Sydney when it comes to public transport.

    Finally, found an amazing alterations tailor in Hong Kong. Wife bought me a Polo RL SC last year. It was one of the older ones made by Corneliani, going for a song as Oroton was busy dumping all inventory prior to handover of RL franchise. The shoulders fit, but everywhere else was a complete baggy mess. Sleeves too long and too baggy, jacket length too long, waist too wide, etc. With just one fitting, this tailor turrned this mess into a garment which fitted like a glove, all for the princely sum of AUD$100. I thanked them profusely and said I have lots of other items to bring to them- the guy told me politely that I should try to avoid bringing them stuff during Xmas/CNY- because he has more than enough work up to his gills, and two of his tailor employees have just retired!!! So I think you will understand if I choose not to disclose his identity.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

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    When I was a fresh graduate, I had a grand total of 2 suits, and one of them was black. Matters sartorial did not even register on the radar in terms of priority. Found it a hassle to always have to replace cheap shoes in those days.

    To answer bluntly, you only NEED one suit. The boss wont care, the judge wont care, and the clerk counter certainly could not give two toss.
     
  9. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    As Jimmy Hoffa/Michael Sy says, there are some people who rock up to work every day in the same, ill-fitting black suit and don't see a problem with it, so there's really not a need to have multiple suits.

    Having said that, however, I think that if you wear a suit (or a jacket and trousers) for work, then it's a good idea to have at least four or five suits, plus perhaps a couple of pairs of odd trousers and one or two odd jackets. If you don't have many suits, then it's probably a good idea to get a spare pair of trousers for the suits if at all possible, as they'll end up getting a fair amount of wear.

    I agree that Manton's advice is going a bit too far, particularly here in Australia where we very rarely have freezing temperatures. As a result, it's entirely possible to get away with wearing one "weight" of suit all year and so there's not requirement to have summer and winter suits. I've got a few "winter weight" suits made out of flannel and I must admit that they get very little wear, but they're so lovely that I can't bring myself to part with them!
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    I reckon two suits (mid-grey and navy), a pair of mid-grey trousers and a dark-ish blue SC should do it.

    Monday: Navy suit
    Tuesday: Mid-grey suit
    Wednesday: Navy suit
    Thursday: Mid-grey suit
    Friday: Blue SC and grey trousers

    Everything else is icing on the cake.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. charliechan

    charliechan Senior member

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    This sounds about right - in my opinion in Sydney you don't even need winter suits.

    Actually it seems sensible to limit yourself to these numbers at any given time, and only replace a suit when they wear out / no longer fit even with alterations, as you get older and your body inevitably changes. I'm finding it hard to follow my own advice though!!
     
  12. Arch3r

    Arch3r Senior member

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    I find 6 is a good rotation for 4-5 days a week. Means you aren't wearing the same suits every week. throw a sports coat in there and you've got a fair amount of flexibility. I plan to add to this but that's really only since I started following SF. I work with a number of guys that wear the same suit day in day out besides the fact that this is just gross they really don't last very long.

    The key for me is focusing on getting the basics nailed and then branching out from there. For example I'm planning on building up to the below list and then adding a suit annually to keep on top of wear. Pragmatic approach, versatile and not financially crippling.

    6x Intermediate
    3x Winter
    3x Summer
     
  13. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Senior member

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    Start with that and build from there as you desire. This is what I did (not that that makes it right, in fact on second thought...).
     
  14. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    oli - finishing off trying to devise a risk management ss that speaks to normal people - when I finish putting likelihood , catastrophic, urgency, regulated, mandated, desirable but not mandated, commonwealth, state, strategic risk, sovereign risk, political risk and making it simple short and usable on Google docs i'll get onto the suits. When it suits me.
     
  15. lukejackson

    lukejackson Senior member

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    Just curious - what pants did you wear with the Canali db?
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014
  16. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

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    Totally agree. Some cashmere sweaters/vest or a cashmere/wool coat, plus scarf are more than adequate to deal with "winter" in Sydney.

    Given the weather, it is puzzling why menfolk in Sydney do not dress more like the Italians.
     
  17. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    When talking about Double Breasted Linen jackets, Prof kills it. Where are you Prof? :'(

    As for weekly wear,

    Mon: 0 Varsity
    Tue: Suiting Wool MA1
    Wed: Suede Baseball Jacket
    Thurs: Lamb MA1
    Fri: Calf Double Rider
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Dusty Brogues

    Dusty Brogues Senior member

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    Happy Friday iGents

    Have a little q that I can't find the answer to, THIS is the only place that can shed some light.

    In relation to Herringbone suits what is the difference in slimness to the cuts of Finlay, Osaka, made in Germany?

    Mr Brownman, Mr Journeyman, Mr Pop, Mr GF?

    Many thanks in advance....
     
  19. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Very jealous of casual jacket lineup, up but.....do you run cold? I can barely get through with just linen (I hate hot weather)!
     
  20. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Senior member

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    Just popped into Uniqlo and Henry Bucks.

    Plenty of Bastian polos at Uniqlo - maybe 25 styles and all sizes. I got a navy one as I prefer my polos plain and simple. $30 for those that are interested.

    Bucks has the usual sale stuff and more, as they seem to be clearing out for the new shop and stock. Some Inis Menin jumpers on sale and nice Boglioli trousers for $595. I got some Boglioli trousers - with the PJ trousers I ordered on Wednesday I think that is me done for a while.
     
    1 person likes this.
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