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sensuki

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My experience with MTM/Bespoke shirts has been the first shirt has been unwearable for me from everyone - despite expressing preference for comfort upfront, always too tight in the chest (it 'fits' with arms down, but uncomfortable to move in). Two makers offered a free remake of the shirt, which turned out well. One I intend to order with again in the future.

OTR shirts look pretty bad on me so that's why I went this route, process definitely a little frustrating but got there in the end.
 

Scuppers

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Thanks, I will check it out. I didn't realise it was a proper boutique there.

What other places in Melbourne would you recommend for other than TF stuff? I'm also looking to expand my business casual wardrobe, so would appreciate any suggestions.

Finally, what's the current consensus on dress shirts? Is it still a better (and oftentimes cheaper) idea to just buy online from the likes of Eton rather than searching locally, even if it is MTM? Tailors I've experienced so far have not inspired much confidence.
I tend to shop at Mason’s and Harrold’s (Harrold’s, only occasionally now.) As they stock some of the off-the-peg brands I like. American Tailors is okay; Raoul‘s in Brighton has wonderful service. Moved on from Henry Bucks. Surprisingly, have returned to the Zegna boutique recently.
The department stores are now rubbish.
 

mercury

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Sooo… no one knows about good, decently priced tailors in Tokyo? Appreciate the help…
The big one would be Ciccio. Don't know about decently priced, or if he's even taking on new clients at the moment.

There's a write up on four others here:


I'd also look into Ring Jacket MTM.
 

__PG__

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Where does one find good quality suits in Australia, specifically Adelaide? I don't think the quality of common "major" retailers justify their price (e.g., MJ Bale). Do I just go full out and get a tailor for everything? I would love to get a few Tom Ford suits (on discount, as I am not that rich, and with our dollar in the gutter it's only getting worse), but I can't find much availability even if I was to travel to Melb/Sydney.
This gives you an idea of Tom Ford at RRP at Harrolds:


Harrolds do have sales. I recall (from a decade ago) they give decent discounts. About 25-50% off.

I was in American Tailors a few weeks ago asking about suit repair. My first and favourite Canali Suit I bought from Azzaro (a wool/mohair blend) was attacked by moths since I last wore it to a wedding. Sebastian gave me the details of Jenny's Invisible mending (who quoted me about $950 to repair all the holes...the moths/silverfish were greedy bastards).

At the time I asked Sebastian how much are a Castangia suits? He said they start at $3,500. If you choose your own fabric it's another 20%. I think they offer a MTM service. They'll take your measurements and send it to Sardinia for tailoring and then it will come back for final finishing which they do in-house. They of course have off-the-racks suits too, and they have sales.

Something to consider if you like the Castangia style - which in their suiting is more structured / Milanese than soft / Neopolitan. You can search Castangia on this forum, they are highly regarded.

Of course, Tom Ford have quite a unique style. I tried one on years ago- so much shaping and handiwork through the front canvas, it was like putting on a suit of armour and made me feel amazing. Are they still styled that way?

Anyway - the Canali suit has been consigned to 'working from home' wear - it's such a gorgeous colour and a great fit but cannot be worn in polite society anymore. But the holes won't show up on Teams ;)

So I'm also looking for a 'flash suit' for weddings/parties/occasions etc.
 

Esplanade

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For the price of Tom Ford, may as well go with a quality MTM.
The problem is you would have to trust the tailor to "replicate" the style you're after (in this instance TF's). While you certainly are paying a hefty markup for the brand, you know exactly what you are getting.
 

sensuki

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I was in American Tailors a few weeks ago asking about suit repair. My first and favourite Canali Suit I bought from Azzaro (a wool/mohair blend) was attacked by moths since I last wore it to a wedding. Sebastian gave me the details of Jenny's Invisible mending (who quoted me about $950 to repair all the holes...the moths/silverfish were greedy bastards).

I can vouch for Jenny, she repaired the jacket in my photo after my friend's cat went to town on it when I was cat sitting while he was overseas. Cat figured out how to open my cupboard door and I hadn't put it in a suit bag. Repair was $640 - 71 loose threads and a 5-10cm rip - can't even tell there was ever any damage after the repair.

Since then I've used Jenny to repair quite a few things - hole in a dress shirt (another cat), knit side seams coming undone, some holes in knitwear etc.
 

Scuppers

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This gives you an idea of Tom Ford at RRP at Harrolds:


Harrolds do have sales. I recall (from a decade ago) they give decent discounts. About 25-50% off.

I was in American Tailors a few weeks ago asking about suit repair. My first and favourite Canali Suit I bought from Azzaro (a wool/mohair blend) was attacked by moths since I last wore it to a wedding. Sebastian gave me the details of Jenny's Invisible mending (who quoted me about $950 to repair all the holes...the moths/silverfish were greedy bastards).

At the time I asked Sebastian how much are a Castangia suits? He said they start at $3,500. If you choose your own fabric it's another 20%. I think they offer a MTM service. They'll take your measurements and send it to Sardinia for tailoring and then it will come back for final finishing which they do in-house. They of course have off-the-racks suits too, and they have sales.

Something to consider if you like the Castangia style - which in their suiting is more structured / Milanese than soft / Neopolitan. You can search Castangia on this forum, they are highly regarded.

Of course, Tom Ford have quite a unique style. I tried one on years ago- so much shaping and handiwork through the front canvas, it was like putting on a suit of armour and made me feel amazing. Are they still styled that way?

Anyway - the Canali suit has been consigned to 'working from home' wear - it's such a gorgeous colour and a great fit but cannot be worn in polite society anymore. But the holes won't show up on Teams ;)

So I'm also looking for a 'flash suit' for weddings/parties/occasions etc.
Good old Sebastian, been serving me for 25 years, now. When he retires, I fear for the experience!

edit: 27 years
 

__PG__

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I can vouch for Jenny, she repaired the jacket in my photo after my friend's cat went to town on it when I was cat sitting while he was overseas. Cat figured out how to open my cupboard door and I hadn't put it in a suit bag. Repair was $640 - 71 loose threads and a 5-10cm rip - can't even tell there was ever any damage after the repair.

Since then I've used Jenny to repair quite a few things - hole in a dress shirt (another cat), knit side seams coming undone, some holes in knitwear etc.
Yeah, the sample work she showed me was impressive.

Re: Tom Ford. This is great (old) blog post about the innards of a Tom Ford suit.


That's from 2010. Anyone know if its still relevant?
 

RGLZ

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Where does one find good quality suits in Australia, specifically Adelaide? I don't think the quality of common "major" retailers justify their price (e.g., MJ Bale). Do I just go full out and get a tailor for everything? I would love to get a few Tom Ford suits (on discount, as I am not that rich, and with our dollar in the gutter it's only getting worse), but I can't find much availability even if I was to travel to Melb/Sydney.
Try Joseph Uzumcu in Adelaide. Made in Italy - Luigi Bianchi Mantova MTM, within 2 weeks Corneliani will arrive. Also Made in Japan MTM..
 

DL5392

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Recently caught the Loro Piana Summer Walks bug, but not too keen to shell out $1k++ for the shoes. Have wide/flat feet which makes buying loafers extra hard.

Came across Remy's in Sydney doing something similar.
https://shop.remy.com.au/products/sport-loafer?variant=40889896173742

Anyone have any experience with those loafers? Or can point to an alternative? (Ideally AU based for shipping/return purposes)
 

sensuki

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Yes, I bought a pair of the REMY loafers. They are more structured than the Summer Walks I think (haven't tried them personally). Mine are uncomfortable in the heels, could be a sizing issue. 42 felt too big. 41 felt pretty good in the shop but uncomfortable walking down the street, get blisters very quickly. Maybe needs more break in, I dunno.
 

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