Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[E TF]



Since I'm still new to the world of suiting, I have to ask this question...is it common for one jacket sleeve to appear longer than the other? I'm not sure if one of my arms is longer than other or if movement is causing one of the sleeves to slowly get pulled up.

"Suiting" is the name for cloth that suits are made from, not for suits themselves. You're new to the world of suits.

I often get one arm looking slightly longer than the other. Luckily it's an easy fix.

 

[msulinski]

Yes or no for dressing down these shoes with chinos in a business casual outfit

http://www.meermin.es/ficha_articulo.php?id=2724

I may be in the minority here, but I think these are too formal for chinos. I would probably only where them with a suit.

 

[atoms]

is it common for one jacket sleeve to appear longer than the other? I'm not sure if one of my arms is longer than other or if movement is causing one of the sleeves to slowly get pulled up.

Very common. All my jackets require one sleeve to be shortened more than the other by as much as 1/2 inch. It's not necessarily differing arm lengths though. In my case, my right shoulder drops more than my left, and with the way jackets drape it becomes obvious in the sleeves.

 

[J011yroger]



Yes or no for dressing down these shoes with chinos in a business casual outfit

http://www.meermin.es/ficha_articulo.php?id=2724

I wouldn't wear them with anything less formal than nice wool/flannel trousers.

J

 

[Count de Monet]



Would anyone know what the button-down flap near the trouser side pocket is for? Edit: Perhaps it is a ticket pocket? Edit 2: Yes, it is a ticket pocket.

Also called a watch flap. Purely decorative on some pants, fully functional on others. It harkens back to olden days when some men carried pocket watches without a vest.

 

[J011yroger]

I put my car key in them!

J

 

[cag2]

I'm getting ready to purchase several new dress shoes and am looking for an exhaustive dress shoe guide before I invest in some good pairs. I have several questions and I'm sure they've been answered and explained somewhere. None of my questions are really style related. I'm more interested in construction, maintenance, and repairs. From the little that I have read and understand, it seems Goodyear welt and Blake construction are the 2 preferable construction types, with Goodyear as the best. I've also seen it stated that it can be more difficult to find a cobbler who can repair Blake construction shoes. Some of the questions I have are below.

How often do shoes need to be resoled? How can you tell when they need to be resoled?

How often should you polish your shoes?

How can you tell if a cobbler's work is up to par? How much should you expect to pay for typical work done by a cobbler? (I live in Tampa, FL if anyone here can recommend a particular cobbler.)

What is the difference between all the types of cedar shoe trees? Which are more preferable? What should you look for?

Any other helpful information would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[AAJJLLPP]



I'm getting ready to purchase several new dress shoes and am looking for an exhaustive dress shoe guide before I invest in some good pairs. I have several questions and I'm sure they've been answered and explained somewhere. None of my questions are really style related. I'm more interested in construction, maintenance, and repairs. From the little that I have read and understand, it seems Goodyear welt and Blake construction are the 2 preferable construction types, with Goodyear as the best. I've also seen it stated that it can be more difficult to find a cobbler who can repair Blake construction shoes. Some of the questions I have are below.

How often do shoes need to be resoled? How can you tell when they need to be resoled?

How often should you polish your shoes?

How can you tell if a cobbler's work is up to par? How much should you expect to pay for typical work done by a cobbler? (I live in Tampa, FL if anyone here can recommend a particular cobbler.)

What is the difference between all the types of cedar shoe trees? Which are more preferable? What should you look for?

Any other helpful information would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I just have to say, I think you're overthinking all of this. Anyway regarding welting, goodyear is not really superior, each has their pros and cons, goodyear is more waterproof and stiffer ( if you want truly waterproof look for Norvegese welting). On the other hand blake is sleeker, and gives a more flexible shoe (many italian dress shoes are blake). I can't really answer on polishing and resoling, it completely depends on the weather, terrain, and the wearer on the frequency. After a bit of practice you will get an eye for when they need a little love. When the soles/heels seem to be getting too thin, that you are about wear through to the leather underneath or damage the welting is just basically when they need to be resoled. As far as a decent cobbler in you area, maybe you should try phoning a reputable shoe manufacturer and where they would reccomend their shoes to be resoled in your area. Lastly on shoes trees, the ones that do not have varnish/lacquer on the wood will absorb moisture far better. If you want more info I suggest you give these threads a read, they have alot of great information, and people who are much more knowledgeable than myself.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/354137/leather-quality-and-properties

http://www.styleforum.net/t/297037/sole-welting

http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc

 

[YRR92]

Shoes need to be resoled when the soles wear out. If they start to feel really soft around where the ball of the foot is, the sole is on the way out. Some replace it then, others wait until there's an actual hole. The longest you should wait is for a hole the size of a dime, according to most folks.

You should polish your shoes whenever they need to be polished. Sorry this isn't more specific.

Cobblers charge different prices depending on where they are. I haven't been wearing decent shoes for long enough to have a strong relationship with my cobbler, so IDK.

Trees should fit the shoe, and the kind that fill out the heel are preferable (AFAIK -- I am a layman, after all).

 

[Kensington]

About how much would you folks estimate the maximum a tailor could reduce in waist size without noticeably messing up the proportions?

 

[J011yroger]



"Suiting" is the name for cloth that suits are made from, not for suits themselves. You're new to the world of suits.

I often get one arm looking slightly longer than the other. Luckily it's an easy fix.

Apparently he isn't the only one. Saw this just now and loled.

J

 

[Count de Monet]

Can someone recommend a brand/model of loafer that accommodates high insteps? I've tried every model in the current AE lineup with no success.

 

[Kid Nickels]



Can someone recommend a brand/model of loafer that accommodates high insteps?  I've tried every model in the current AE lineup with no success.  

loafers.... anyone, anyone?

 

[cptjeff]



loafers.... anyone, anyone?

I wear penny loafers more than any other shoe, but not having a high instep, can't really comment. I don't think of them as shoes that would accommodate that very well, they don't have the ability to adjust like a laced shoe does.

AE does a custom thing where they can put shoes on different lasts (and select custom colors and leathers, ect), perhaps that might be worth a shot? Get your loafer on a last known to accommodate high insteps well.

 

[potemkin_city_limits]

I was watching House of Cards tonight and I noticed in episode 6 and 7 there is a scene where Frank has his collar unbuttoned and his tie removed and his collar stays in place at the points as if it was a button down shirt but there are no buttons.

I was wondering if anyone has seen this and knows what type of collar it is that he is wearing. I assume its some kind of hidden button down but I figured I would put it out there to see if anyone knows for sure.