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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

dah328

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Originally Posted by Jay Gatsby
Wanting to buy something cordovan to wear across the formality spectrum, from sports shirt and chinos to odd jacket and wool trousers to suits. What style shoe will provide the ubiquity I'm looking for?
It's pretty easy to find something that works for chinos and an odd jacket or that works for an odd jacket and a suit, but something that spans all three is more difficult. A heavier blucher brogue works reasonably well for chinos and an odd jacket, but doesn't work very well with business suits. A sleeker balmoral brogue could work with business suits and an odd jacket, but would be a little too formal for chinos.
 

onix

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Originally Posted by dah328
It's pretty easy to find something that works for chinos and an odd jacket or that works for an odd jacket and a suit, but something that spans all three is more difficult. A heavier blucher brogue works reasonably well for chinos and an odd jacket, but doesn't work very well with business suits. A sleeker balmoral brogue could work with business suits and an odd jacket, but would be a little too formal for chinos.

Agreed that a difficult pick. When in doubt, I often go for the more formal ones. Hence, brogue balmoral is what I would suggest.
 

HKTenor

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Originally Posted by gordon jraber
going to a wedding on saturday - its kinda of casual/kind of formal. cocktail style maybe?

i dont really want to wear a suit. i have black trousers, what color jacket would go well with that?

thanks.


Meant to show an example of trolling? (I keed)

Cocktail style = suit (or at least odd jacket)
Kind of formal = suit (or at least odd jacket)
Wedding = suit (or at least odd jacket)

Nothing really goes with black pants. If you have a suit, or a blazer, wear it. I realize this is not the answer you are looking for, but I think to do otherwise is a mistake.
 

Jay Gatsby

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Originally Posted by dah328
It's pretty easy to find something that works for chinos and an odd jacket or that works for an odd jacket and a suit, but something that spans all three is more difficult. A heavier blucher brogue works reasonably well for chinos and an odd jacket, but doesn't work very well with business suits. A sleeker balmoral brogue could work with business suits and an odd jacket, but would be a little too formal for chinos.

Thank you -- the formality is a function of the amount of brogue -- correct? Heavier brogue means more casual. So minimal brogue on the seam of the toe cap would be fine for a suit, heavy brogue-ing on the toe cap and / or wingtips is worn with chinos and less former attire. Correct?
 

deveandepot1

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Originally Posted by dmash1080
What brands could I look at for grey trousers under $200?

Epaulet has some slim fit wool pants.
Check them out.
 

motorpsycho67

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Quickie.....

Is there a way to authenticate vintage Florsheim Imperial Kenmoor Longwings?

I just purchased a pair of NOS black pebble grain Kenmoor longwings (9D) on eBay, but the insole and inner upper (?) are black leather instead of tan leather like my other vintage Kenmoors. Could this be because they're from a different era or place of manufacture? The soles on my old pair and the pair in question are the same; V-cleat heel and 5 nails up front. Are there good knockoffs out there? They seem to be high quality to me, but the color of the leather on the inside threw me off.

Help?
 

dah328

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Originally Posted by Jay Gatsby
Thank you -- the formality is a function of the amount of brogue -- correct? Heavier brogue means more casual. So minimal brogue on the seam of the toe cap would be fine for a suit, heavy brogue-ing on the toe cap and / or wingtips is worn with chinos and less former attire. Correct?
That's a good part of it, but the blucher/balmoral distinction is another significant part of it. The shape of the last and thickness of the sole and welt is another, perhaps lesser, part of it. For example, the shoes pictured in the two links below are both fairly heavily brogued, but being balmorals in a rather sleek last, they are suitable with suits and would look too formal for wear with chinos:

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8..._808_black.jpg
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2...88_darkoak.jpg

In general, I wouldn't wear bluchers with suits or balmorals with chinos. With odd jackets, the other aspects that contribute to the formality of the shoe become more important. Of course, this topic, as with most others here, is one that few outside SF would concern themselves with. If the shoe is clearly not of athletic origins, it must be suitable for wear with a suit.
 

DaveB

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I'm not a normally a suit person but when recently shopping at SAKS off fifth I got a charcoal light herringbone two-button RLBL jacket that was marked down to 300. Unfortunately they couldn’t find the matching pants for the jacket so they gave me an additional 50% off. I have all the jacket information like fabric/style/season number. My question is it normally possible to find passable matching pants to orphan suit jackets? Should I try to look for pants or would it be a waste of time and I should just try to resell as an orphaned jacket (I figure I can at least break even at 150) Any Suggestions? Thanks
 

wetnose

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Originally Posted by motorpsycho67
Quickie.....

Is there a way to authenticate vintage Florsheim Imperial Kenmoor Longwings?

I just purchased a pair of NOS black pebble grain Kenmoor longwings (9D) on eBay, but the insole and inner upper (?) are black leather instead of tan leather like my other vintage Kenmoors. Could this be because they're from a different era or place of manufacture? The soles on my old pair and the pair in question are the same; V-cleat heel and 5 nails up front. Are there good knockoffs out there? They seem to be high quality to me, but the color of the leather on the inside threw me off.

Help?


side question...what does NOS stand for?
 

prajna12

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I just bought a pair of Shell Chukkas. The thing is, they are pretty snug to get them on. It's like the tongue is too low and restricts my foot getting in. After they're on they seem to feel/fit fine.
Will these just stretch and be easier to put on with some use?
 

Jay Gatsby

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Thank you for the excellent info.

J

Originally Posted by dah328
That's a good part of it, but the blucher/balmoral distinction is another significant part of it. The shape of the last and thickness of the sole and welt is another, perhaps lesser, part of it. For example, the shoes pictured in the two links below are both fairly heavily brogued, but being balmorals in a rather sleek last, they are suitable with suits and would look too formal for wear with chinos:

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8..._808_black.jpg
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2...88_darkoak.jpg

In general, I wouldn't wear bluchers with suits or balmorals with chinos. With odd jackets, the other aspects that contribute to the formality of the shoe become more important. Of course, this topic, as with most others here, is one that few outside SF would concern themselves with. If the shoe is clearly not of athletic origins, it must be suitable for wear with a suit.
 

onix

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Originally Posted by DaveB
I'm not a normally a suit person but when recently shopping at SAKS off fifth I got a charcoal light herringbone two-button RLBL jacket that was marked down to 300. Unfortunately they couldn't find the matching pants for the jacket so they gave me an additional 50% off. I have all the jacket information like fabric/style/season number. My question is it normally possible to find passable matching pants to orphan suit jackets? Should I try to look for pants or would it be a waste of time and I should just try to resell as an orphaned jacket (I figure I can at least break even at 150) Any Suggestions? Thanks

Highly doubt that you can find a matching pants.
1. They're marked down -> the store is clearing them -> if they dont have them now, they will not have them later
2. Almost everybody buy the whole suit, if they ever sell them, they will sell them as a whole -> you cannot even find them here or ebay
3. Even if somebody just bought the pants, what's the chance that theirs are of the same size as yours?
 

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