Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Bor

[Mojo1990]

Yea. I would rather invest good clothing then have to pollute the earth with ****

 

[nyarkies]

Anyone still give a **** about this stuff?

I still do in a way. I don't see myself getting rid off the pieces that still fit me. Although, I'd like to see more color and an approach or finish where it is not intentionally made to look like a piece of distressed clothing, post apocalyptic, or early 1900s hobo look. It feels the look of artisanal has been stuck to either or a combination of those categories. Abasi Rosborough comes to mind that seems to break away from that but is it considered artisanal because I don't have much knowledge of their works.

 

[oulipien]

Abasi Rosborough is at least carried by retailers that overlap a lot with "artisanal" retailers (and NMWA, which kind of cracks me up).

Both devoa and forme seem to be using more color, but forme seems to be re-using a lot of the same shapes (IIRC someone made the same remark about Individual Sentiments recently). I've started to really like D. Hygen; fascinate is doing preorders for ss20 and I'm curious to see what they'll have.

 

[nyarkies]

Abasi Rosborough is at least carried by retailers that overlap a lot with "artisanal" retailers (and NMWA, which kind of cracks me up).

Both devoa and forme seem to be using more color, but forme seems to be re-using a lot of the same shapes (IIRC someone made the same remark about Individual Sentiments recently). I've started to really like D. Hygen; fascinate is doing preorders for ss20 and I'm curious to see what they'll have.

I did see that when it was initially announced. Hard for me to see the usual NMWA customer be interested in that kind of styling. Although, I think it's a step into attracting a different kind of customer to NMWA.

For me, D.Hygen started as heavily inspired by CCP. I haven't looked much into their newer stuff.

 

[MGoCrimson]

Abasi Rosborough’s line is a lot more accessible than the dark stuff talked about in this thread. A lot of AR, at a very basic level, is techwear or reinterpretations of shapes/styles e.g. bombers, shirt jackets that are familiar to most.

 

[nyarkies]

Abasi Rosborough’s line is a lot more accessible than the dark stuff talked about in this thread. A lot of AR, at a very basic level, is techwear or reinterpretations of shapes/styles e.g. bombers, shirt jackets that are familiar to most.

I can see that. I just find it a bit difficult to pair the ARC jacket to other offerings of NMWA, granted I haven't seen every piece of clothing that they have.

 

[nicelynice]

Anyone still give a **** about this stuff?

My most exciting purchase this year was two pairs of Patagonia baggies shorts

 

[Zamb]

Yea. I would rather invest good clothing then have to pollute the earth with ****

exactly.

 

[DeadBoy]

Spoiler: Some recent stuff I can give a **** about

Isabel Benenato

Individual Sentiments

Forme D'Expression

There are a few ways to look at the question posed earlier. In addition to those labels I mentioned, designers like By Walid, Deepti and The Viridi-anne also keep me interested. And Avant Toi is a label that I think does a really good job of incorporating colour into the 'artisanal' aesthetic.

I also give a *********** sense that, while it may be fun to watch the runway shows of today's 'it' labels, the next time I need a pair of boots I'll still probably turn to A1923 or Guidi.

Or perhaps the question was getting at whether the general zeitgeist is still in any way with this niche. Was it ever, really? Seems like some internet folk got into it briefly, then moved on, as internet folk do. I don't think most of these brands ever really made it outside a relatively small group of people.

 

[LA Guy]

Spoiler: Some recent stuff I can give a **** about

Isabel Benenato
View attachment 1212569

Individual Sentiments
View attachment 1212570

Forme D'Expression
View attachment 1212571

There are a few ways to look at the question posed earlier. In addition to those labels I mentioned, designers like By Walid, Deepti and The Viridi-anne also keep me interested. And Avant Toi is a label that I think does a really good job of incorporating colour into the 'artisanal' aesthetic.

I also give a *********** sense that, while it may be fun to watch the runway shows of today's 'it' labels, the next time I need a pair of boots I'll still probably turn to A1923 or Guidi.

Or perhaps the question was getting at whether the general zeitgeist is still in any way with this niche. Was it ever, really? Seems like some internet folk got into it briefly, then moved on, as internet folk do. I don't think most of these brands ever really made it outside a relatively small group of people.

I like by Walid and Greg Lauren, and I wear Guidi boots and accessories, and I still like the occasional deadstock CCP piece, and some of Deepti's accessories, but I have never been the typical custome for this type of stuff. I find a lot of the head to toe "artisanal" looks to be pretty tortured.

 

[merz]

i guess i've realised mid-response that fisty & i likely brought this conversation on to begin with, but my interested in all this stuff was largely brought on by a certain group's body of work and i've come into possessing enough of that to not need much else besides the occasional snag of yesteryear's (or decade's) rag or two whenever such becomes available through ever-dwindling channels. that or working to derive something on my own purely for personal enjoyment. beyond that i've ceased to follow who does what, where guidi can possibly place a zipper or the colours of the rainbow a person with more money than sense can form out of the ccp collection in their closet. maybe this was a trend or a niche to someone, a thing to get in on cause the internet said it was cool at the time. but really you only need to look at the stuff itself to sense the difference. so far as i'm concerned that is forever. bury me in it & **** the naysayers.

that & mmoria continues to be nice if you can catch that train before it sails.

 

[Zamb]

I like by Walid and Greg Lauren, and I wear Guidi boots and accessories, and I still like the occasional deadstock CCP piece, and some of Deepti's accessories, but I have never been the typical custome for this type of stuff. I find a lot of the head to toe "artisanal" looks to be pretty tortured.

I think the whole artisanal market offers a wide assortment of stuff and many different designers that I wonder about some of these questions
MA+ always did and continue to do a lot of colors
within the niche there was always a lot of different players that you could find whatever you wished,
for example if you didn't want hardcore leather you could find tailored ease in either Paul Harnden or GBS
there are/ were brands like Forme or Lost and Found that was geared to an older Customer
people with more aggressive taste could look to BBS or Julius at it height.

While indeed some people have lost interest and moved on to other things I think the bigger issue is that with the fries of Instagram and Facebook groups there is less real conversation about these brands and their products, compounded by the rise is streetwear and the slow pace at which products evolve...…………...
I might say more tomorrow when my thoughts are more coherent. - long day

 

[LA Guy]

Honestly, nearly all of the blame can be laid at the feet of course Atelier NY, which calcified the look as much as it defined it. The look was so distinctive that it's nearly impossible to shake. It's really not unlike J crew, which can't shake the preppy image that Jenna Lyons created for the women and the heritage look that Andy Spade created for men with the Liquor Store and in good company. They can only hope that that look comes back into style. I think that the "artisanal" designers are stuck in a similar situation.

 

[Zamb]

Honestly, nearly all of the blame can be laid at the feet of course Atelier NY, which calcified the look as much as it defined it. The look was so distinctive that it's nearly impossible to shake. It's really not unlike J crew, which can't shake the preppy image that Jenna Lyons created for the women and the heritage look that Andy Spade created for men with the Liquor Store and in good company. They can only hope that that look comes back into style. I think that the "artisanal" designers are stuck in a similar situation.

I see what you are saying and it does have some merit but I think its not altogether the case
I have always argued that the focus of a store like atelier (and others ) was too narrow
I have always also argued on SZ that the brands they focused on was too narrow a list and that other designers were doing work worthy of discussion.
I think a series of things took place over the last several years that has contributed to both the decline of many artisanal brands and an overall lack of interest by a lot of consumers. need to gather my thoughts correctly so I can outline them

 

[oulipien]

I'm honestly surprised that Lost and Found doesn't get as much attention, here at least, because IME some of the cuts are really interesting and the fabric choices can be quite nice. (OTOH, some of the fabrics are awful and some of the cuts are just weird. But it doesn't seem like it's repeating the same stuff.)

Avant Toi has some really great scarves; haven't handled their other stuff.

Yesterday in the Mission I saw a guy selling cheap electronics on the street in a plaid shirt the bottom part of which had, unevenly patched in, the remains of a denim shirt, and it looked for all the world like a Greg Lauren piece.