STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.
Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!
Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
This one keeps coming up and most people are mistaken about the causes so here's a detailed look at what causes shoulder divots or dents.
First, the divots have nothing to do with the width of the shoulder- we often hear people making comments about a shoulder being too wide because it is denting but this is not the cause. Look at old photos of Tommy Nutter's work- you can't get much wider than that and they don't dent.
Second, the divots have nothing to do with the amount of shoulder padding; again, you can tons of it and not have dents, and you can have dents on an unpadded shoulder.
THIS is what causes the divots.
The armhole must be cut in the right shape for the body of the wearer. The sleeve is then cut in a very precise relationship to the armhole. In the figure below, the height of the armhole dictates the height of the sleeve cap and the width of the armhole dictates the width of the sleeve cap. We'll say that distance a-b must be equal to e-f and distance c-d must be equal to g-h (for the super geeks, this is not the actual formula but we'll say it is for simplicity).
If you put on a jacket whose armhole has not been cut wide enough for you, or that the chest pulls because it is too tight (or a host of other reasons the armhole may distort) the armhole will contract- it will get wider and shorter. The sleeve cap is now too long and narrow (a-b is shorter than e-f and c-d is wider than g-h) so it pulls from front to back, and the extra length collapses. THIS is what causes the divot.
The only way to try to remedy this is to remove the sleeve and shorten the cap (cut away excess length); this will, in some cases, be sufficient, but in many cases you also need some extra width to the sleeve cap, which you will not be able to gain since there is no outlet for it. This is neither easy nor cheap so your average dry-cleaner alterations tailor may not be able to do it.
The only way to know if a jacket is gong to do this is to try it on. If it dents, try a size up or try a different maker.
The answer is implied in the response youve received. Buy suits with larger armholes and a sleeve pitch and shoulder angle that’s right for you. You can only figure out what suits work for you through trying them on. Look for a good fit in the shoulders above all else.
It can be, but it's not an absolute rule. You need armholes that are big enough for you without being so big that they become cumbersome. The human body has a nearly infinite number of variations and you need to be able to roll with that. Larger armholes is just one possible way to mitigate the problems you are having. I mentioned two other things than could contribute to solving your problem. It's about having a holistic approach.