Anglo-Italian

[Phillip Dean]

I see that Anglo-Italian has introduced made-to-ordee shirting and I’m quite intrigued. Over IG, the brand told me that their collars are lightly fused. Curious is anyone has firsthand experience with AI’s fused collars and can share their impressions.

 

[mossrockss]

I see that Anglo-Italian has introduced made-to-ordee shirting and I’m quite intrigued. Over IG, the brand told me that their collars are lightly fused. Curious is anyone has firsthand experience with AI’s fused collars and can share their impressions.

Assuming they haven't changed in 5 years, they're great. Lightweight fusing like any good Italian shirtmaker. I did not try the OCBDs at the time, which are fused like Italian makers do. I have a PS OCBD made by Luca Avitabile, which is fused in the collar, and I dig it—less frumpy than unlined American style OCBDs.

 

[The False Prophet]

Does anyone know what kind of cloth AI’s spread collar shirts are made from? In particular, does it have a decent heft to it?

I’ve got some Borrelli dress shirts at the moment that are a bit on the fragile side, and am keen to get some in a sturdier poplin.

 

[te0o]

I see that Anglo-Italian has introduced made-to-ordee shirting and I’m quite intrigued. Over IG, the brand told me that their collars are lightly fused. Curious is anyone has firsthand experience with AI’s fused collars and can share their impressions.

Does anyone know what kind of cloth AI’s spread collar shirts are made from? In particular, does it have a decent heft to it?

I’ve got some Borrelli dress shirts at the moment that are a bit on the fragile side, and am keen to get some in a sturdier poplin.

I've got three AI spread collar dress shirts (poplin). I am very happy with the collar - it has got just the right geometry, the points are long enough, so is the depth, and I haven't noticed any issues with the fusing and how it behaves. It holds a tie beautifully and it also looks like it can stand up on its own without a tie when worn with a jacket, although I haven't tried that.

My issue is with the choice of cloth. It is way way too light. It is horrible to iron, even when the shirt is damp, and I am never able to get rid of the creases fully. The choice of light cloth apparently is intentional, as Jake has told me he dislikes heavy shirting. Bad call in my opinion and it does make the shirt a near nightmare to iron and wear. The creases that accumulate throughout the day are noticeable and not flattering.

Also, the body/waist of the shirts is quite large for a given size. Another intentional decision from AI as I understand it, to create a free-flowing look when the shirt is tucked in. Yet another bad call for me as it is simply too big rather than free-flowing and louche in an Italian sort of way. I don't think it is suitable on a dress shirt but this at least is easily fixable with darts.

 

[Phillip Dean]

I've got three AI spread collar dress shirts (poplin). I am very happy with the collar - it has got just the right geometry, the points are long enough, so is the depth, and I haven't noticed any issues with the fusing and how it behaves. It holds a tie beautifully and it also looks like it can stand up on its own without a tie when worn with a jacket, although I haven't tried that.

My issue is with the choice of cloth. It is way way too light. It is horrible to iron, even when the shirt is damp, and I am never able to get rid of the creases fully. The choice of light cloth apparently is intentional, as Jake has told me he dislikes heavy shirting. Bad call in my opinion and it does make the shirt a near nightmare to iron and wear. The creases that accumulate throughout the day are noticeable and not flattering.

Also, the body/waist of the shirts is quite large for a given size. Another intentional decision from AI as I understand it, to create a free-flowing look when the shirt is tucked in. Yet another bad call for me as it is simply too big rather than free-flowing and louche in an Italian sort of way. I don't think it is suitable on a dress shirt but this at least is easily fixable with darts.

Thank you for your feedback. Had you had experience with poplin shirting before? I'm wondering if this is an issue unique to AI's choice of shirting, or if it's more generally an issue with poplin.

 

[te0o]

Thank you for your feedback. Had you had experience with poplin shirting before? I'm wondering if this is an issue unique to AI's choice of shirting, or if it's more generally an issue with poplin.

Not extensive, I’m usually a twill man when it comes to dress shirts - but the cloth Anglo-Italian use is definitely on the light side.

 

[mossrockss]

Not extensive, I’m usually a twill man when it comes to dress shirts - but the cloth Anglo-Italian use is definitely on the light side.

This is helpful to know. I have an Eidos broadcloth shirt that’s perfect but going downhill that I’d like to replace, and I’d considered the AI poplin. I’ll look elsewhere. Maybe just suck it up and buy a Finamore.

 

[The False Prophet]

A lot of the Italian poplin shirts I've had have been fragile. Some have not been. Thomas Mason makes good poplins for my money, and you can get some from G Inglese (eg via No Man Walks Alone). I think Albini does some more substantial ones too.

Finamores have varied in my experience: it depends on which retailer they are made up for.

The problem seems generally to be that a lightweight poplin will seem fine and delicate, and therefore more 'luxurious', on the shelf. It does not stay that way. And as a poster said above, it creases during the day.

I'm curious at Jake's preference for lighter fabrics, given that the OCBDs are pretty substantial, and indeed the current range is about 30gms heavier than the earlier ones.

 

[te0o]

I'm curious at Jake's preference for lighter fabrics, given that the OCBDs are pretty substantial, and indeed the current range is about 30gms heavier than the earlier ones.

That's a good question. It also relates to another point which I think applies to Anglo - the products overall are great, well thought out and good-quality - but most of them just have one quirk too many.

The lapels on the Martingala coat, the collar on the suede bomber, the cloth and body measurements on the dress shirt, the chest pocket on the OCBDs... and the list goes on. A shame, in my opinion, as their products as a whole would have otherwise been more compelling.

 

[Shetterd]

Went to Anglo-Italian for the first time to try on some of the tailoring and talk about a potential MTM commission later in the year. The experience was a, unfortunately, weird and left me really doubting that AIT is the right choice for me.

After some discussion, the salesperson brought out a size 48 jacket (I have a 40.5-41 inch chest). I am not sure how to best describe the problem. Perhaps it's best to say that the fit was "technically" correct. The shoulder width was good, the back clean. the buttoning point just above my belly button. But the chest felt a bit tight to me, there was none of that drape you associate with the house style, the buttoning point certainly was not overly low, and overall it just looked a lot less distinctive than I would have expected. Given that I was interested in MTM the salesperson suggested cleaning up the effects my dropped shoulder and taking in the waist, but beyond that he did not seem to think there was anything else that was necessary.

The jacket just did not look as "louche" on me as it did either in photos or on the three members of staff who were there wearing AIT tailoring. And I have no idea how the alterations to the block the salesperson suggested would achieve that look. I suspect that a size 50 jacket would have looked better in retrospect, but because of the confidence of the salesperson I did not insist on trying it, though maybe I should have.

I am almost considering going back and talking to someone else on the team, but am discouraged by the whole experience.

 

[sargeinaz]

Went to Anglo-Italian for the first time to try on some of the tailoring and talk about a potential MTM commission later in the year. The experience was a, unfortunately, weird and left me really doubting that AIT is the right choice for me.

After some discussion, the salesperson brought out a size 48 jacket (I have a 40.5-41 inch chest). I am not sure how to best describe the problem. Perhaps it's best to say that the fit was "technically" correct. The shoulder width was good, the back clean. the buttoning point just above my belly button. But the chest felt a bit tight to me, there was none of that drape you associate with the house style, the buttoning point certainly was not overly low, and overall it just looked a lot less distinctive than I would have expected. Given that I was interested in MTM the salesperson suggested cleaning up the effects my dropped shoulder and taking in the waist, but beyond that he did not seem to think there was anything else that was necessary.

The jacket just did not look as "louche" on me as it did either in photos or on the three members of staff who were there wearing AIT tailoring. And I have no idea how the alterations to the block the salesperson suggested would achieve that look. I suspect that a size 50 jacket would have looked better in retrospect, but because of the confidence of the salesperson I did not insist on trying it, though maybe I should have.

I am almost considering going back and talking to someone else on the team, but am discouraged by the whole experience.

that’s funny you mention that because I’ve been there twice and the one time I had an associate fit me, the jacket felt very slim on me. I agree it was nothing like the Permanent Style MTM review or what you see them wearing on their IG or in store. It was more like going to SuitSupply visually on how the jacket looked on me.

I also wanted that louche, lower buttoning point look and when I tried it on there was no drape and a normal looking buttoning point. I tried on their 46 fitting jacket and I, as well, should’ve tried one size up to a 48. I agree that one of the main reasons to go with them vs let’s say Spier or Natalino is that louche, lower buttoning point, slightly fuller look.

It’s bizarre because I feel like when you try the clothes on (particularly the jacket because trousers/shirts/outerwear is more straight forward) that entire look doesn’t seem to translate and when you look at Jake or the other employees I also wonder where the disconnect is.

I love their clothes/fabrics/colors etc and I’ve even thought about asking when Jake himself would be in store next time I’m in London to have him fit me for a MTO/MTM jacket so I can get that look because to me, part of the price would be his discerning eye/taste. I’m a firm believer in paying for someone’s personal eye/taste otherwise I’ll just measure jackets myself and tell a company like SuSu or Spier to make it for me or just buy Natalino/Cavour etc and settling for however it fits me off the rack.

so I don’t blame you for wanting another associate or Jake himself to be there and I don’t think that’s unreasonable. Once you get one jacket done and it looks how you want, then you can be much more comfortable with future orders.

edit: the reason I mentioned Jake himself fitting me is because Jake himself fitted Simon for his MTM jacket review.

 

[Treble]

Sounds like if you can describe what you want on here you should be able to in the shop? Or show them a picture.

Think all the sales staff who do the suiting work are knowledgeable, and I've seen customers being fitted slimmer / looser as they preferred within the general house style. They also talked through the pricing options and whether it would be value in a way that felt very honest.

 

[sargeinaz]

Sounds like if you can describe what you want on here you should be able to in the shop? Or show them a picture.

Think all the sales staff who do the suiting work are knowledgeable, and I've seen customers being fitted slimmer / looser as they preferred within the general house style. They also talked through the pricing options and whether it would be value in a way that felt very honest.

Well to be clear. Everyone who ever helped me out there was extremely nice, honest, helpful and never pressured me at all. I have zero issues with any of the employees. Everyone I dealt with directly was great.

sure, perhaps I should’ve described it better. All I’m saying is I figure the default would be the look I’m describing since they describe their own aesthetic that way. It seems strange to have to tell them you want that look, but yes sure I don’t disagree I could’ve done that.

i mean look at it this way, I’ve still bought stuff from them since. I’m still debating doing an MTO/MTM sport jacket with them even considering this. I would just simply want the guy who designed the jacket to be the one fitting me since you can’t really put a price on that and there’s a better chance Jake could achieve that vs anyone else no? Then after that it’s theoretically smooth sailing. Just pick a fabric and order.

same reason I’d love to get a suit from George Wang at Brio. Because to me part of the value is George himself looking at you wearing a garment and determining things like fit/looks/silhouette I simply don’t have the eye for myself

 

[Shetterd]

I agree with @sargeinaz. @Treble it's a little weird when they are all wearing one look and then fit you in a way that does not really resemble that look.

 

[DutchW]

The fitting was “weird” because you failed to mention what you wanted? A good salesperson and/or fitter will tell you if your expectations are reasonable. In this case, it was probably better that you didn’t initially move forward. I’d also agree that another trip is warranted to try a bigger block size. Also be sure to communicate what you’re really after. I’d guess the team will be thrilled given your interest in the AI house aesthetic. FWIW, I’ve met and worked with a few of the guys on the team, too (including Jake and Alex when he was still with AI), and they were all great guys.